BayArea48Deluxe Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 So I have bought several pulleys to remove the pulley off my fan … and with no success I have not found a look alike to the C-412. Anyone have any recommendations on which pulley to get.. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 Are you looking for a PULLER to remove the fan blades from your heater fan ? Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 (edited) I have this puller in my collection of factory miller tools. Read the description. Prior to pulling the hub there is a pin that goes through the hub and the shaft. This needs to be pushed out prior to trying to pull the hub. You can use a punch to drive out the pin. Then use any two arm or three arm puller to remove the hub. There specific tools that were made to disassemble and rebuild the water pumps. You just might want to get a complete new water pump with the pully already attached. I have the complete rebuilding tools. The screen prints were taken from my Miller tool presentation that was done at the 2022 National Desoto Car show and Annual Convention. So you can tell there are a fair amt of special tools required to rebuild a water pump for your car. I would sell the entire kit if you are really interested. These factory tools are very hard to find even at the Great Hershey swap meet. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Edited July 6 by desoto1939 1 Quote
Sniper Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 He said pulley you're talking about the hub. I wonder what the op actually needs because all I've ever had to do was take the four bolts out and the pulley came right off the Hub Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 sniper I was also confused by what he was trying to pull off the water pump. refer to my posting just prior to yours and the required tools that the factory Miller tool company created that the dealership used. These tools are from my personal collection and from my power point presentation that I did for the National Desoto club. These were all used by Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge and Plymouth. Rich Hartung Quote
BayArea48Deluxe Posted July 6 Author Report Posted July 6 Yea I have the Manual to how to.. I pulled the pin… and yea tried pulpy and still no go… I’ve tried for a while now using three clamp pulleys. Yes the tool in the top right corner of your picture is the one used. I couldn’t find it. Just like you said yup tried looking for a few days already. To avail , sorry for the confusion.. but yes it’s the hub under the pulley what would you call it… not the fan the fan comes off four bolts then pulley comes off that’s easy… pin punch drove out pin that’s no problem… its the damn hub I can’t pull off … Quote
BayArea48Deluxe Posted July 6 Author Report Posted July 6 And as I ask the question and ask… of course it comes off with all of my strength left in me 🤷♂️thanks guys Quote
keithb7 Posted July 7 Report Posted July 7 (edited) The cooling fan and drive pulley thread into the shaft flange in the waterpump. In my experience that’s not worth taking apart. New Gates waterpumps appear decent and reliable. They are priced attractively. Probably not worth trying to rebuild. But that’s just me. Edited July 7 by keithb7 2 Quote
BayArea48Deluxe Posted July 7 Author Report Posted July 7 Yea Keith I figured that out at this point the seal washer in there was all to crap.. got to see a bunch of things I never knew I wanted to know. But I like stuff like that. But yes bought replacement 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 7 Report Posted July 7 I think he is confused that he is the Pull-ee and the mount flange is what you need the puller for....and the fanbelt pulley is not in the picture here at this point. Personally I have found that the pulley flange is best removed and replaced with a bearing block on the hydraulic or large arbor press... Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 7 Report Posted July 7 (edited) But with the newer gates pump you might have an issue. I have found that the older Mopar had three threaded studs that some out from the front of the block. The issue is that the stud around the 7 oclock position when looking straight forward is very short. The new style now has a thicker body at the point on the body and when you go to install the replacement unit the stud will not stick out of the body and you cannot bolt the waterpump to the engine. They provide you with a long bolt that you can then thread into the water jacket but you then have to remove the studs that might be 50+ years old and has been in the water jacket. Possibility of bracking off the stud. Yes you can heat the old studs and use a stud puller. I have informed Andy Berbaum about the issue and they stated that this is the correct pump but the early bodies of the WP were on approx 1/2 thick at the 7 o-clock position. I spoke to Art Gould WP rebuilder and they told me that if there is enough material in the old wp that they could enlarge the main body and install a sealed bearing which is much better that the old fiber gasket internal bushing. So if you have the older style WP I would keep the body just incase you have to rebuild it. Contact Art Gould up in Mass. I do know they come to Hershey in October. In my last set of picture in the upper left corner is the proper Miller tool to puller the mounting bracket from the shaft. The tool under that is used to insert a drill and is mounted on the shaft to drill the hole into the shaft when you replace the pin. You do not see these tools even at Hershey, so I have some rare finds over the past 35 years. Just an FYI. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Edited July 7 by desoto1939 Quote
keithb7 Posted July 7 Report Posted July 7 I will admit the new Gates water pump that I installed holds the only metric hardware in my entire car. Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 7 Report Posted July 7 19 minutes ago, keithb7 said: I will admit the new Gates water pump that I installed holds the only metric hardware in my entire car. So Keith are you saying that the threads for the by-pass house are metric and not standard US threads? Also what about the bolt that now goes into the hole around the 7 o-clock position? Rich Hartung Quote
Sniper Posted July 7 Report Posted July 7 (edited) The only thing metric on that water pump are the bolts holding the rear cover on. I did a review on that pump http://www.yourolddad.com/cooling-system Edited July 7 by Sniper 1 Quote
Los_Control Posted July 8 Report Posted July 8 I want to sign a petition complaining about my new Gates water pump. Sure it works fine .... Just because my bypass hose leaks .... my new pump looks like it is 20 years old. Them dirty devils should have put some forethought into it ...... Now I'm going to have to remove it just to add paint to it. Probably fix the bypass hose leak while there .... My Gates pump works fine .... I wish I did paint it before installation ... I did not .... I will replace the worn spring clamps on the bypass hose with worm drive. Just sucks I have to do the job twice .... just a heads up for others. 1 Quote
andyd Posted July 8 Report Posted July 8 My useless 2 Oz cents worth contribution to this thread........when I was young & silly and was learning all about 1940 Dodges in the early 1970's the car had a leaking water pump.....I had a workshop manual and back then could easily buy a water pump repair kit.............so I did..........and proceeded to break, mangle and generally stuff up those mongrel fibre washer crap things that came in the original water pumps and repair kits......more than once or twice as I recall....... ..............so when the water pump started to leak and whine in the 1941 Plymouth I had bought in 2007 I was SO PLEASED that Mr Gates had installed a sealed normal bearing & seal in the nice new water pumps........yeh, I ended up selling the car like a dope but for me a water pump repair kit is something I hope I never have the misfortune of dealing with again...........lol.....regards from Oztralia............andyd 2 Quote
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