What Is Wrong With This Distributor?

[Bingster]

The inside of this distributor off my '47 DeSoto S-11 seems like the others I have seen on YouTube except for the huge blue condenser wire and the questionable soldered wire and such.  The distributor's in a horrible location to see one side of it. I stuck my camera down in there and snapped this photo. 

The points seem worn to me from what I have seen on a new set. I'm replacing them. I have had folks tell me that new condensers are garbage and you take your chances, and the old ones are better and if they work it may be best to just keep them on.

Anyway, I'll have a go at it. I'm ordering a new coil as well. One less thing in the spark journey to worry about.

 

 

[kencombs]

As far as I can see, the wires  and connections need to be replaced.  Points look fine, but I can't really tell if the faces are pitted.   If not, I'd just run 'em.  Same with the condenser.   Lots of the came with a flat 'wire' and some were covered with an insulator like that. 

 

I'd pull the distributor, clean and examine carefully on the bench.  Working with it installed is near impossible to do good work.  to easy to drop a screw, short a connection etc.

[Bingster]

Is it very involved to pull the distributor?

[TodFitch]

6 minutes ago, Bingster said:

Is it very involved to pull the distributor?

Pretty easy.

 

1. Remove distributor cap.

2. If so equipped, disconnect vacuum line.

3. Remove wire from coil to side of distributor.

4. Remove screw on plate holding distributor to block.

5. Note location of rotor so you can put it back in the way you found it.

6. Pull distributor off.

 

Install is reverse. When you drop the distributor back in there are two ways it will sit down. The correct way and 180° off, look at the rotor to see that you have it correct. If not raise the distributor up, rotate the shaft 180° and drop it back in.

[maok]

That looped wire looks a little dodgy to me but difficult to tell from the pic, it's critical that it's well insulated and does not ground. 

 

Before removing distributor, turn engine over until rotor is pointing to #1 spark plug wire, engine should be approximately at TDC, now remove as mentioned above. It's a lot easier working on it on the bench.

[desoto1939]

Put a reference mark on the engine block with some caulk and also on the body of the dizzy use white or even some tape.  This way you now have a focal point to match back up to when putting the dizzy back into the block.

 

Rich Hartung

[Hickory]

I agree with rich mark the dizzy to where the rotor is pointed. Life happens, parts don't and memories fail. Piece of tape would work well. It won't wipe off with oily fingers 

[Kilgore47]

All good suggestions above.  I take a picture.  Cap off and rotor on so I can remember where it's pointing.  Just remember to not turn the engine while the distributor is out.  

[Merle Coggins]

Tod has a pretty complete description for removing the distributor. It is fairly easy. However, I seem to recall on the 25" engines there may be a clearance issue for removing the distributor unless #1 is at TDC. So I would add that to the top of Tod's list.  

1. Crank the engine over to set crankshaft to TDC mark. 

1a. Remove distributor cap.

2. If so equipped, disconnect vacuum line.

3. Remove wire from coil to side of distributor.

4. Remove screw on plate holding distributor to block.

5. Note location of rotor so you can put it back in the way you found it.

6. Pull distributor off.

[Bingster]

Thanks all.  I've been trying to start the car before the cold weather hits and I think I can make it even with this detour.

[Dave72dt]

You still need to confirm you have found cyl 1 TDC on compression.   In a previous post you mentioned moving the plug wires around in the cap.  If you don't know where the rotor is when 1 is on TDC compression, you won't know where #1 is supposed to be placed in the cap.  You don't KNOW that the oil pump is correctly timed to the engine.  You can't assume it is.  Does the rotor point either to the 7 o'clock or the 1 o'clock when the timing mark and the pointer line up or does it point somewhere else.?

[Curt Lee]

That looped wire looks dodgy as hell. I think it's shorted out. The blue "wire" is just insulation for the points -condenser connector. Point gap may be too large, and the condenser body looks like it might be contacting the lobes of the shaft, but that's just what i think I see. Those are the things I would address, anyway. Never throw away a set of points.