LED Brake and rear and indicator lights D24

[Swiss Johhnie]

Dear All The D24 6 Volt system means the rear tail lights are somewhat dim and when used the indicator when in use is barely noticeable. Any ideas to improve the illumination? Has any one fitted LED rear lights? Best wishes John in Switzerland

[DJK]

Your best bet is to clean all light sockets, install ground wires from battery to body, verify you have 00 gauge wires at the battery and starter relay to starter.

[Conn47D24]

LEDs work fine. Much brighter.  Also make sure of very good grounding!

PS,  signal lights will need a special flasher can for LED bulbs.

[Plymouthy Adams]

the glass of the lens is more likely the issue than the bulb and wattage is wattage regardless of the voltage.   You may find LED a bit more lumens but your next issue is going to be the flasher.  Either you will load the system with a ballast for amperage draw for the flasher to work or even better, just upgrade to the electronic flasher.  However, not sure the availability of the electronic flasher in 6 volt positive round your areas, but are available online

 

Edited July 24, 2023 by Plymouthy Adams

[Ivan_B]

I have 6v LEDs installed, used this one for the tail lights (dual filament). You will also need a 6v LED flasher, as mentioned. Of course, wash the glass while you are in there

[Plymouthy Adams]

I forgot to also mention that the lenses do not have reflectors as is common in today's cars and contributes to the poor lighting you describe.  One can easily fabricate these to ensure more light exits the lens and not enter into the trunk of the vehicle.   

[Ivan_B]

12 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

One can easily fabricate these to ensure more light exits the lens and not enter into the trunk of the vehicle.

Hmmm, interesting idea. Do you have any specific points how you would go about this, without cutting the fender, etc.? I just have a small hole for the bulb, and there is not much space available behind the glass either. I could not really think of anything, except gluing a reflective film underneath the glass. ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

I would start with just unbolting the bezel and attack it with item in hand.....white painted back panel alone does wonders.  But controlling light loss is the better fix.

[harmony]

I tried it and I gave up trying.  But that's because I'm "challenged" to say the least when it comes to auto electrics.  But I can pass on my experience.

Yes you can do the conversion pretty much "plug and play".  I think possibly I was just sold the wrong stuff and the supplier wasn't inclined to send me the right stuff to make it right.

I was dealing with ledlight.com.  I bought 6 volt bulbs and a 6 volt flasher and 4-3 ohms load equalizers as well as a matched 3 prong plug for their flasher.  All designed for positive ground cars.  Long story short after many hair pulling emails back and forth it seems I should have bought 2-6 ohms load equalizers, according to them. Even though they initially told me I needed 4-3 ohms load equalizers.

  

It's been 3 years since I had this experience so my memory fails me a bit but in my research I believe the placement of (mounting location) and size of the load equalizers is determined on how the turn signal wiring is set up.  What confused me and the guys at ledlight was the way the wiring on my '48 Windsor went through the hand brake indicator light switch as well, using the same flasher(stock).  After I wired their stuff all up I was getting hipper flashing.  But if I bypassed the hand brake switch, it seemed ok ( for awhile).  Because of my wiring set up, I was told to put the 4- 3 ohm load equalizers close to each turn signal, which I did.  But then later, when explaining my problem to them I was then told that I needed 2-6 ohms load equalizers, mounted close to the turn signal unit.  But they were not sure exactly where I should wire them in, due to the hand brake switch wiring.  Btw those load equalizers get pretty hot so keep any wiring at least a half inch away from them.

My dash wiring is all stock, with neatly wrapped harnessing, and I didn't want to start bastardizing it.  So I gave up on the idea.  Plus I'm too cheap to hire an electrician to figure it out. 

At one point, after doing a few "test light" tests on their flasher, I think I determined that the flasher they sold me stopped working.  I asked if I could return it for a replacement and at the same time purchase 4- 6 ohms equalizers.  They basically told me the issue was "user error"  and basically didn't want to deal with me anymore.   They may have been quite right.  All the components are collecting dust in a drawer these days.

I have all the part numbers if you are interested.

Edited July 24, 2023 by harmony

[Plymouthy Adams]

such is the average business supplying parts these days....they made the immediate sale, they could care less if you are happy, if what they sold works and heaven forbid you question their 'knowledge'  sorry you had this issue.  I always recommend that one do some reading of a few white papers, does not take but a minute this way to know what article has got their 'stuff' in the right sock.  Once up to speed and for the most part above parr of the average seller, you can procure what you need and be successful in the endeavor.  

[Sniper]

With the proper flasher you do not need load resistors.

 

https://litezupp.com/Flasher-Electronic-3-Prong-6-Volt-Positive-Ground

 

Gee, from the culprits mentioned, lol

 

https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-6-volt-led-3-prong-120-watt-positive-chassis.aspx

 

All you have to do is read the write up for their flasher to tell you they don't know doodly.

 

 

 

 

[Ivan_B]

I also though that a proper flasher is all you need. But integrating LEDs into a stock system could be a challenge. I am just adding flashers in from scratch (the car had none, originally) so all I need is the LEDs, flasher, 3-way toggle switch, 2-4 relays, and that's it, hoping to get to it next week

[harmony]

11 minutes ago, Sniper said:

With the proper flasher you do not need load resistors.

 

https://litezupp.com/Flasher-Electronic-3-Prong-6-Volt-Positive-Ground

 

Gee, from the culprits mentioned, lol

 

https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-6-volt-led-3-prong-120-watt-positive-chassis.aspx

 

All you have to do is read the write up for their flasher to tell you they don't know doodly.

 

 

 

 

That ledlight link for a flasher is the one they sent me.  So you're saying if I buy the one from litezupp, I'm all good to go?

That bit (in my rambling on) about the hand brake wiring, does that play into any issues, or does it not influence things at all?

[desoto1939]

I have installed a third brake light and turn signal bar light in my rear window on my 1939 Desoto. The nice thing about the unit is that it is mounted to the interior side of the rear window and held in place via suction cups.  It is a very simple connection to your tail lights.

 

The unit has r/l turn signal flashing signals, full brake light and also 4 way flashing.  The unit is around 14 inches long and about 2 inches  wide. It is very visable.  Since all cars now have the 3rd light installed i felt it was a better option for the car behind me and the light is very viable during the day and at nighttime.

 

This is a real easy project and also a safety item for all of the  older cars.  The company that made might has 6 and 12 volt version and also positive ground versiions.

 

Rich Hartung

[Sniper]

1 minute ago, harmony said:

That ledlight link for a flasher is the one they sent me.  So you're saying if I buy the one from litezupp, I'm all good to go?

That bit (in my rambling on) about the hand brake wiring, does that play into any issues, or does it not influence things at all?

 

I hesitate to say for sure as I do not know how your hand brake setup is wired in originally and why the flasher is involved, I can guess though.

 

I don't hae any Chrysler manuals to look at the schematics on

[harmony]

23 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

such is the average business supplying parts these days....they made the immediate sale, they could care less if you are happy, if what they sold works and heaven forbid you question their 'knowledge'  sorry you had this issue.  I always recommend that one do some reading of a few white papers, does not take but a minute this way to know what article has got their 'stuff' in the right sock.  Once up to speed and for the most part above parr of the average seller, you can procure what you need and be successful in the endeavor.  

It's sad that when buying things today you have to keep your fingers crossed that first, it actually works, and second that they sold you what you need.  

[Plymouthy Adams]

the hand brake light as wired from the factory is not part of the braking system on that of the accessory light switched to ground when the lever is removed from the rest position.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I agree, many retailers only know a part number, a few will know how they work.  Sounds like you got a zealous agent getting commission on parts quantity sold.  I could be wrong.  YOU NEED to be most informed these days.  Schematics, drawing and specifications are no longer part of an item description.  IF you are a DIYer the lack of these specs make designing a system for your own adaptation challenging to say the least.  You must know how it works before you can make it work is key to success.  Read them white papers, some are hard to find, but often with a bit of search you will prevail.

[harmony]

3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

the hand brake light as wired from the factory is not part of the braking system on that of the accessory light switched to ground when the lever is removed from the rest position.

Quite right, I'm remembering that the switch just interrupted ground as you just said.  I'll have to get up under the dash today have have another look.  

[harmony]

9 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

I hesitate to say for sure as I do not know how your hand brake setup is wired in originally and why the flasher is involved, I can guess though.

 

I don't hae any Chrysler manuals to look at the schematics on

I'm headed to my shop now.  I'll take a picture of the wiring diagram in my service manual and also get up under the dash to refresh my memory about how i seemed to think that the hand brake switch was involved in my issue.

 

Sorry, John I didn't mean to hijack your post.  Perhaps I'll send a PM to Sniper later.

[Ash84]

22 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

the glass of the lens is more likely the issue than the bulb and wattage is wattage regardless of the voltage.   You may find LED a bit more lumens but your next issue is going to be the flasher.  Either you will load the system with a ballast for amperage draw for the flasher to work or even better, just upgrade to the electronic flasher.  However, not sure the availability of the electronic flasher in 6 volt positive round your areas, but are available online

 

Were can I a flasher for a 1950 plymouth mine doesn't to flash no more and it's getting old shifting braking and using turn signal manually. 

[Ivan_B]

Just the stock one? eBay.

I guess most folks these day do not recognize the hand signals anymore and think you are just friendly (or weird) ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

in you have no local parts places, odds are you will need to source online....e-bay search will show you what is available.  If you have shops dealing with the older German or British cars, drop by and inquire from them, many of them get upgraded.  

[Bryan G]

I bought LED bulbs and the electronic flasher a couple months ago but have yet to get things to work right. Apparently I have a ground issue somewhere, though darned if I've been able to track it down. The dash indicator won't work with this unit, and the taillights? I can have blinkers or running lamps, but not both, with LED. (The incandescents, meanwhile, work just fine!) Oddly, I can't duplicate this with the bulb on the bench.  I'm just going to have to start tracing down a lot of wires. I will say, the more consistent flash of the modern unit does make for an easier to see light. I've thought of adding an extra set of turn signals somewhere but haven't come up with anything that wouldn't look tacky.

[Ivan_B]

For the dash indicator, I am pretty sure that you should also be using an LED of appropriate specs. My flasher came with a little diagram indicating how the pilot light should be connected. For the wiring, make sure that the flasher is wired correctly. It might not work if you simply install LED bulbs and plug in the new flasher instead of the old one.