Jump to content

Clutch is fixed


Doug&Deb

Recommended Posts

Took the rebuilt clutch out of the Coronet today. The new disc is.025 thicker than the old one. I tried adjusting to get.060 plate departure but no joy. I ended up re-installing the old clutch assembly and adjusting to factory spec and it solved the problem. It goes against my nature to use the old clutch but it has minimal wear. Now back to driving the wheels off again.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad you got it ..... so sad that that is our future of replacement parts for classic cars.

Just far to common to hear scenarios like this.

 

I thought about this myself .... using a old clutch.

I have a old engine in the corner I hope to use some day ..... It obviously had low miles on a rebuild & the clutch pressure plate is in very good condition .... I plan to run them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m not going to blame the vendor. He’s highly recommended and respected. It’s quite possible my mechanical incompetence is to blame. I’m definitely still learning as I go. I now have a much better understanding of how the clutch works on my car.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Doug&Deb said:

I’m not going to blame the vendor. He’s highly recommended and respected. It’s quite possible my mechanical incompetence is to blame. I’m definitely still learning as I go. I now have a much better understanding of how the clutch works on my car.

Nice response, classy for sure.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm wondering if I'm going to have a similar issue with my 29. When I pulled the engine the clutch looks like new along withe the shiny pressure plate. I'm assuming it was changed not to many miles ago. But when I removed it there were washers between the pressure plate and the flywheel which I intended to remove. The washers remove the stability of the pressure plate by not being flush with the flywheel. Now I wonder.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems to be a some what common problem these days...

It's critical the new/rebuilt  shoe or clutch linings be no thicker than OE specifications listed in the factory shop manual.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Hickory said:

I'm wondering if I'm going to have a similar issue with my 29. When I pulled the engine the clutch looks like new along withe the shiny pressure plate. I'm assuming it was changed not to many miles ago. But when I removed it there were washers between the pressure plate and the flywheel which I intended to remove. The washers remove the stability of the pressure plate by not being flush with the flywheel. Now I wonder.....

I used washes exactly like that on a Chevy many years ago . I had tried everything else that I could think of to correct the problem , different clutch disks , different pressure plates . I never did find the cause of the problem and drove the car using the washers . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are the pressure plate fingers adjustable?  A thicker disc moves the fingers closer to the disc.  Too close to the disc and there may not be enough travel in the throw out brg to fully release the disc.   Washers may have worked but they also lessened clamping pressure on the disc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m still having a bit of grinding into reverse. I have no idea what else to try. I’m literally running all the old components that worked fine before the engine swap. It’s adjusted exactly as the manual calls for. I’m done crawling under the car for now. I’m going to drive and hope for the best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you put a couple drops of light oil on the input shaft for the two inner/outer  pilot bushings?

NOT Grease!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sniper I use AW32 hydraulic oil in the transmission. Dodgeb4ya no I didn’t. I did wipe down the input shaft with a light coating of oil. I didn’t know to oil it for the bushings. I did lower the idle a bit. It’s always been hit or miss with that. I’ll set it with my tach and it’s perfect till I blip the throttle and it’s changed again. Oh well we’ll see how it works today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this new fluid as when all the issues started. It's just strange that only reverse has been effected.  Did putting it in to an another gear first and then quickly shifting to reverse help. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if it was suggested or you have tried ..... Try putting it in 1rst gear first, then straight up to reverse?

 

My 1991 chebby with a NV3500 5spd ..... I have to put it into 5th first then straight down to R .....

I guess it just aligns the gears so I can put it into reverse. .... Otherwise if I try to come from 1rst to reverse it will just grind terribly.

 

Same time the transmission shifts beautifully, is nice & tight ...just never get reverse without going to 5th first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use