1948 Dodge Dually Flat Bed Thread

[billrigsby]

 

I'm going to start a new thread on this vehicle I'm not going to call it a build thread because the vehicle's basically built and operational just needs

a little touch up here and there.

 

Long story short I first saw this on one of the Facebook forums in December, the guy was asking what people thought it was worth, it went up for sale in

January for for $4,500 at the time just could not afford that planning for a daughter-in-law's wedding in February down in LA.

 

Fast forward to March and he's trying to part it out and then apparently got in a little tiff with someone on Facebook and got banned from the forum for being rude.

I contacted him and said what was the cash price to haul it home given the fact that if it wasn't sold in a week or so it was going to scrap due to him moving out of

state. $1,000 cash on the barrelhead, loaded up my trailer and left Friday morning 3:40 a.m. left for Wyoming from Colorado, 8-hour trip one way but of course with

all plans nothing went perfect and a blowing and blinding snow storm coming through Denver turned the trip into a 24-hour and 20 minute trip got home at 4:00 a.m.

on Saturday.

 

As the title says it's a 1948 1-ton dually flatbed, it has several nice options the upgraded interior package with the driver's armrest and sun visor, interior light, heater

(which I'm not sure brand or model), dual horns, optional 20-in wheels of which I got two extras (all 8 tires hold air!), front and rear turn signals (which I'm not sure if

they are factory dealer options or previous owner installed), external oil filter and front bumper guards.

 

He bought the truck from what he said was from the state who took it from the original owner upon death.

 

The current state of the vehicle is that it starts and runs (on an electric fuel pump), appears to have the original engine (to be confirmed) sounds really good, brake

pedal goes to the floor the bed flooring is completely toast

 

the side boards are okay body wise there are a couple small dents, 

   

 

the running boards are pristine, never dragged across the side of a tree, like most. Other than a couple of small dents, it's one of the straightest bodies I've seen

on an original vehicle. All of the front trim, hood emblems and hood ornament are not only there and intact but in reasonably good shape with minor dings and

dents, the hood ornament has very minimal pitting, original key works in both the ignition and door.

Other than the brakes and the bed the wiring has needless to say seen better days and I will probably just repair/replace that with something quick and easy and 

vinyl this is not going to be a restoration just fix it and drive it project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

There was a PTO driven pump, control handle and auxiliary tank (I was told it was fuel) that I have removed.

  

 

Short video of the engine running before loading it up.

 

 

 

That is the state of things now, more to follow. ?

 

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2023 by billrigsby

[Veemoney]

Really looks like a nice truck. For that kind a money I would say you stole it rather than bought it. Looks like the drive was worth the time invested.

[billrigsby]

 

Changed oil and filter, 40psi cranking it over with the starter!

Going to hit all the zerks and do transmission and rear end drain and fill next.

[billrigsby]

 

Decided to remove the bed today, it was never attached to the truck frame and will make repairs much easier.

Curious, is there anyone out there who may know the manufacturer of this particular bed? No tags or numbers to be found.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 3, 2023 by billrigsby

[Young Ed]

For the W series the ones with that wheel arch are dodge beds

[billrigsby]

23 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

For the W series the ones with that wheel arch are dodge beds

 

Interesting, I've scoured all the documentation I have and nothing looks quite like that.

By 'Dodge Beds' I am guessing you mean factory installed?

 

That does, possibly change my plans, during my repair I plan on making the side panels three-piece,

not including the tailgate for easy removal, for a true flat bed.

 

I may need to keep all the original metal and mounting to be able to 'go back to original'.

 

The plans I am working on are attached........

 

 

1948 Dodge 1 Ton Stake Bed Plans.pdf

[ggdad1951]

From what I was told 2 years ago here, the B series had no " factory" beds....for whatever that is worth.

[Lingle]

nice work!  question though, what software did you use to make those prints?  Ive wanted to get a decent CAD software to do some design work as its frowned upon using my company one for personal use and if I can find a decent one for reasonable price, Id get some.

 

keep up the photos, looks like a great machine!

[billrigsby]

7 minutes ago, Lingle said:

nice work!  question though, what software did you use to make those prints?  Ive wanted to get a decent CAD software to do some design work as its frowned upon using my company one for personal use and if I can find a decent one for reasonable price, Id get some.

 

I use CorelDraw, it is a vector-based illustration program.

 

[Young Ed]

12 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

From what I was told 2 years ago here, the B series had no " factory" beds....for whatever that is worth.

No pics but group 25 in the W series parts book is platform and stake. Shows 9 beds /parts

[ggdad1951]

14 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

No pics but group 25 in the W series parts book is platform and stake. Shows 9 beds /parts

 

Yah 2 years ago when I was researching for a stock flatbed the group think here was all aftermarket.   When I get home next week ill have to paw thru the parts books and old threads.

[Merle Coggins]

There is no Group 25 in my B-series parts manual, but in Group 23 - Body, it shows parts for 3/4 and 1 ton stake beds. 

 

Body Page 23-4.pdf

[ggdad1951]

Found the thread from a few years back...mixed bag of answers and likey why I was thinking no stock options.

 

But I'd tend to think if the profile looks like the pics from Merle you'd be a stock as possible.

[billrigsby]

6 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

There is no Group 25 in my B-series parts manual, but in Group 23 - Body, it shows parts for 3/4 and 1 ton stake beds. 

 

Body Page 23-4.pdf 325.3 kB · 3 downloads

 

44 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

Found the thread from a few years back...mixed bag of answers and likey why I was thinking no stock options.

 

But I'd tend to think if the profile looks like the pics from Merle you'd be a stock as possible.

 

Yep, I remember your post about picking up the bed,

Merles post and the parts list did not yield many answers

 

All, including the photos from the parts book, but one photo in Bunn's book

(a 1.5T) show space between the side panels, mine is a solid wall type system.

Even all the ones in the 1948 - Dodge Special Equipment Manual For Job-Rated Trucks

have spacing between the side rails.

Also the ones in the parts book are almost 2" wider than mine?

 

I'll just wing it and rebuild it as I would like (removable side panels), I'll keep all

the original angles and metal brackets off to the side for posterity sake, I won't

have it forever!

 

Perhaps the build card that I requested will shed some light, but unlikely, feeling this may be a dealer add-on.

 

Danielle is out to Q2, still catching up on the Covid back-log, but that is not that far out!

 

 

 

 

Edited April 4, 2023 by billrigsby

[billrigsby]

 

Removed the remnants of the original floor mat, found some of the standard cancer, the seat base is worse than on my other 48, but repairable.

Any recommendations for a good rust converter? My other 48 went to AZ for a dip to remove all the rust back in the eighties, not this one.

Just want to clean up with a wire wheel and stop the progression as best as possible for now.

 

Drivers side.

   

 

Passengers side.

   

 

 

Edited April 7, 2023 by billrigsby

[billrigsby]

Passenger side corner is the worst.

 

Small area on the drivers side.

 

As usual, the seat base on the passenger side is rotted out pretty bad.

 

 

[bkahler]

I used Corroseal on various spots on my engine and it worked great.  Converts the rust and the metal turns gray.  Should work well on your cab.

 

 

[billrigsby]

On 4/8/2023 at 6:11 AM, bkahler said:

I used Corroseal on various spots on my engine and it worked great.  Converts the rust and the metal turns gray.  Should work well on your cab.

 

Thanks, I'll look into that, going to need a bunch for the bed frame also,

wondering does it go on thick? With a brush? or sprayed and thin?

 

 

[bkahler]

Just now, billrigsby said:

 

Thanks, I'll look into that, going to need a bunch for the bed frame also,

wondering does it go on thick? With a brush? or sprayed and thin?

 

 

 

I brushed it on.  I don't know that it can be sprayed although I'm sure the directions would provide all options for application.

[billrigsby]

 

Started to disassemble the bed today, going to get it into it's separate pieces, clean, de-rust (convert)

and start to piece it back together.

Got all of the sides off so far and several of the bolts along the main side rails.

 

 

The main side rails are looking pretty sad with several 'rust through' spots.

 

 

Corner and rear steel brackets, missing one flat bracket for the slide in tailgate.

 

BUT the rear end seems to have been modified, an added angle piece and moved stake pockets, 

I'll probably rectify that and bring it back to, close to original.

 

 

 

[billrigsby]

13 minutes ago, bkahler said:

I brushed it on.  I don't know that it can be sprayed although I'm sure the directions would provide all options for application.

 

Prefect, I was hoping for that answer.

[Los_Control]

I have been using ospho for a rust converter. I have found a brush is the best way to apply it.

I buy the cheap $1 nylon paint brushes from wherever I can find them .... throw them away when done.

 

Just suggesting all rust converters have the same basic main ingredient.

Ospho is something I pick up at my local hardware store & is cheap compared to some other brands.

You can buy rust converter from Eastwood automotive products for a premium price ..... same main ingredient as ospho from Ace hardware.

They both do the same job ..... one may do it better I can not say .... ospho been working for me.

[billrigsby]

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

I have been using ospho for a rust converter. I have found a brush is the best way to apply it.

I buy the cheap $1 nylon paint brushes from wherever I can find them .... throw them away when done.

 

Thanks, I'll look into that one also, it will be a bit before it is needed, so the more options the better.

When I did my 50+ year old Kubota restoration nothing was that terrible, I used Rustoleum Rust-Reformer

spray primer, was very happy with the results.

 

This 75 year old truck is a different story though, 'flaking' rust in some spots, mostly the exposed flat bed.

 

 

[Los_Control]

Looks like you have a challenge in repairing the original flatbed.

While it is not terrible .... making it exactly original could be a challenge.

Making it functional looks much easier  

 

Using acids to cure rust issues is or can be a art.

Muriatic  acid can be used safely .... in the back yard. .... Anywhere near your shop it will rust every tool in vapor range.

 

 

Very aggressive .... but when you need that it works well. ..... My avatar shows my Texas suntan .... nothing would touch it except acids.

 

 

This product is $15 a quart .... directions are to remove loose rust, apply with a brush then paint over ..... Actually works pretty well .... still aggressive. If you use it inside the cab of the truck .... Vapors will cause & leave rust on cables & such .... not as bad as the muriatic acid above .... you will see traces of it.

 

 

 

 

As you can see, this item is food grade .... meant for removing rust from stainless steel restaurant equipment.

It is the most expensive,   It really does a good job .... phosphoric is the main ingredient in all the rust converters.

It does the least damage from vapors .... I find it the most pleasant to work with.

 

Just depends what your job is.

Muriatic is the most aggressive.

Ospho medium.

phosphoric the most pleasant to work with, & does a good job.

 

I can use phosphoric acid food grade inside the cab of the truck with no negative side effects. .... Takes longer.

With the fender above ..... only the most aggressive acid would touch it .... do it out back not in the garage.

 

Just sharing my experience with different acids being used as rust converters.

 

[billrigsby]

13 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Looks like you have a challenge in repairing the original flatbed.

While it is not terrible .... making it exactly original could be a challenge.

Making it functional looks much easier  

 

Using acids to cure rust issues is or can be a art.

Muriatic  acid can be used safely .... in the back yard

 

 

Functional is the goal, just want to remove the added angle iron at the rear and

relocate the stake pockets to the correct location, re do the wood and strips.

 

I used more muriatic acid than I care to remember back in the 80's when

I first started my other one ton project, works real good.

 

Thanks for all the info.