Dash Clock

[bartenderfloyd]

I decided to try and fix my dash clock hoping it would be something obvious but before I get too far down the rabbit hole, I figured I'd post here.  All the gears and springs seem to be intact.  The transformer looks like none I have ever seen.  I'm guessing that is my issue?  I tested it direct on 6 volts and it does nothing.  It may just be better to stick one of those quarts battery operated ones on the back.  Should be good for a few years.

 

 

Edited October 2, 2022 by bartenderfloyd

[1950 Special Deluxe]

That is what I did. 
No one has caught me yet, I thought the second hand might give it away. I will take a picture later and add it. 

[DonaldSmith]

From what I know about car clocks back in the day, a clock did not have a transformer, but a solenoid to rewind a mechanical clock mechanism every few minutes. As the works run down, the points close, to power the solenoid for the rewind.  Typically, the clock would tick contentedly for a few minutes, and then would be firm clunk.  The clock pictured above looks quite a lot different than my DeSoto clock.

 

The solenoid creates a magnetic field at its ends  which attracts the "ears" of the winding mechanism.   A real piece of work. 

 

[bartenderfloyd]

Oops, you are right, solenoid.  My brain goes to transformer anytime I see lots of windings. 

[1950 Special Deluxe]

Here are a couple of pictures of mine.

I had to trim the second hand a little bit.

 

[Loren]

The only clocks I’ve fixed were VDO.

They had a “fusible link” of sorts. If the clock had unwound by having the battery disconnected over a long time, the first time it wound it would pop the link.

It wasn’t all that easy to find (mostly because I didn’t know what to look for) the first time.

But look for the power input to the magnetic winder there could be a spring like thing with a little solder on it but not connected to anything.

Then within the arch of its movement you’ll find pin it was soldered to.

[P15-D24]

Check with Instrument Services in IL. Should be a link on the Links Directory tab.

[andyd]

Old story.............but for my 1941 Plymouth I wasn't going to spend $7-800 US on a NOS 1941 Plymouth clock but by scanning a pic of it I was able to resize said pic to fit behind a piece of clear plastic & by some judicious fiddling was able to mount said pic where a stock 41 Plymouth gold plated clock would live.......this "clock" told perfect time twice daily, didn't need winding nor any maintenence & suited my cheapskate self........and was still keeping perfect time(twice daily) when I sold the car..........tho' I can't remember whether I told the new owner about the cars "clock".........lol................andyd 

[Sniper]

Typically the contact on the points are the issue, they can stick or get dirty.  Look closely at them.

[DonaldSmith]

Loren is right on!  My clock had the open connection that I had to re-solder.  I never thought of the soldered connection as a safety link.   There it is, off the winding and onto the points.  All better, now, for the last several years. 

 

[Sniper]

Blowing up the OP's pic (use ctrl +), looks like the link is soldered ok and the points look pitted.  But it's real hard to say for sure with the picture.

[bartenderfloyd]

I'll post another pic later. There is a push button like plunger thing on the back plate of the clock. I think it pushes that copper arm.  Does anyone know what that is supposed to do? Also, what is the function of the "F - S" dial? It seems to tighten the spring.

[Sniper]

slow and fast, alters the speed of the clock, it's so that it will read correctly and not gain or lose time.  It's a mechanical timing adjustment.

 

[bartenderfloyd]

I see some corrosion around this shaft. I have looked all over and don't see any points like the one pictured above.

[DonaldSmith]

Maybe more than one way to design a clock (besides the modern electronic quartz wonders). 

Our mantle clock has a seven-day spring, with an escapement to control the mechanism that moves the hands. 

Most automotive clocks from my youth had the occasional thump to rewind the mechanism for a few minutes. 

Maybe the clock in question uses the escapement to control a constant thrust from a solenoid. 

Still a puzzle.  

[bartenderfloyd]

Yes, it is a Jaeger Watch Company clock.  I am scouring the interwebs looking for a schematic, exploded view, or explanation as to how this works.

[bartenderfloyd]

I found some more info on another website:

 

"The switch spring contacts on these get dirty and can wear, the contact pin on the balance can wear through often cutting it in half, with a service and new contacts these clocks run quite well."

 

I can see that pin and it is pretty dirty.  You can't see it in the pic but in the last one I posted it is right at the tip of that horizontal blade looking thing in the center.

 

"Also a lot of these movements don't self start, usually there is some flip spring attached to the hand set knob which needs to be pushed or pulled before the clock will start and run."

 

That must be what that push button thing in the back is for.

 

[nonstop]

Weird how this stuff happens - my clock recently stopped working.  I had power to the fuse, power to the clock. Tonight, I pulled out the clock saw the points were closed and stuck.  I got them open and sanded them down.  Was looking closer and saw the same open connection!  I re-soldered it, but then got curious.  It is fused, so there should not be this damage.  I checked my owners manual and it specifies a 3 amp fuse.  I pulled the fuse and somehow I put a 7 1/2 amp fuse in there years ago!  Boy do I feel stupid and lucky (I did not totally screw it up) at the same time.  
 

It there is no circuit protection for your clock, you might want to consider adding a 3 amp fuse in line.

Edited October 5, 2022 by nonstop

[cef2lion]

This post was helpful. I just pulled the dash clock out of the 52 Coronet I’m working on. 
 

The 3amp fuse on the back was blown. Replaced it a connected the clock to the 6v battery. Heard a click but nothing. 
 

I took the clock apart using the pictures in this post as the clock looked similar. I was able to move the arm a the points opened an it began to tick. I watched it run down till the points closed. After a couple cycles like this I connected the clock to the battery. The clock wound itself a ticked down. It appears to be working now. I’m going clean the points a bit then put it back together and see. Maybe it just needed a new fuse an a little push. 
 

After reading this post I understood how the clock works. I’m surprised how short the wind an unwind cycle is. I thought when it wound itself it might run for a few hours or so. 

[bartenderfloyd]

Update on the clock.  I cleaned it up but it must have had a bad electromagnet so I figured I'd take it to the local clock repair to get it replaced.  Naive me thought they were going to actually get a replacement electro magnet, clean up the old clock and get it to work.  No luck.  I discovered that all they do is wait for an old clock movement to come in to their "supplier" and they just replace the guts with a working one.  I could have done the same thing buying a used one off ebay.  So I moved on to plan B.  As I've stated in previous posts, I'm ok with things not being original.  I replaced the movement with this https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Movement-Mechanism-Different-Length/dp/B07KZRVVWP/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=R2GH6&content-id=amzn1.sym.b4f172f0-a2ab-4ffa-ac9d-22e96231ca8e&pf_rd_p=b4f172f0-a2ab-4ffa-ac9d-22e96231ca8e&pf_rd_r=EK8VZPNEZTZKA5DX03D5&pd_rd_wg=V496a&pd_rd_r=19950c76-a48f-4eba-b424-1c6ff8cb0318&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m.  But not wanting to have to change the batteries, I wired in a buck converter to step down the 6v power to 1.5v and now I can just wire it in the car.  I also got those on amazon here https://www.amazon.com/LM2596-Converter-3-0-40V-1-5-35V-Supply/dp/B08NV3JCBC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=17Z4GZCQWUZHI&keywords=buck+converter&qid=1675642909&sprefix=buck+converter%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-1.

 

It's not perfect but it now tells the time more than twice per day.  Here's the finished product. 

 

 

[Bryan G]

The Jaeger design is unique and seems to use a magnet to move the escapement, rather than a "winder". Mine had just plumb wore out. It would take a good watchmaker to replace the shaft, and my emails to a couple shops went unreturned. I finally found a NOS unit for my car that wasn't too expensive. After oiling and adjustment, it works quite well. 

 

A key to all the old automotive clocks is that they were supposed to be serviced regularly, just like all clocks and watches back then. The old shops probably cleaned them in carbon tet; these days they pull them apart and throw them in an ultrasonic cleaner. I've dabbled with old clocks and watches enough to know I shouldn't be trusted with anything too valuable! Anyway, aside from cleaning they need some good clock oil, but not too much. I learned that years after drowning one in WD-40!

[MarcDeSoto]

I have the original clock for my 48 DeSoto.  I think the maker is Borg instruments.  I'm going to use this thread to see if my clock works by connecting it to my 6 volt battery.