Horn relay, dimmer switch, solenoid - to buy or not?

[Bryan]

I'm going to pull my engine but looking at my rusted solenoid, horn relay and dimmer switch wondering if I should go ahead and buy new ones?  On Rock Auto the "Standard Motor' brand is about $18 each.  Wondering if I should just try the existing ones out and replace later if they are defective, or buy new ones, which might not be as good as original.. My luck would be waiting several months, getting everything back together, Rock Auto stock being out then having to buy them at $50 each at one of the "specialty" sites.

[Booger]

what are you waiting for? clean up old stuff..just in case

[Plymouthy Adams]

the solenoid listed for the 48 Dodge on rock is 12 volts....amperage issues could be involved including clamping power of the secondary contacts when energized with 6 volts...

[Sniper]

Try an SS558 starter solenoid, it's 6v solenoid

[Plymouthy Adams]

6 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Try an SS558 starter solenoid, it's 6v solenoid

 

you would think their listing under make and model would have the correct voltage unit listed.....my post was just to alert the wrong listing....good post on the correct voltage solenoid...

[Greg51T&CWagon]

while you're at it, If you're having your generator rebuilt, send along that regulator as well so they can clean it up and set it up with your generator.

[desoto1939]

an ounce of prevention and being prepared for future maintenance now is worth the money.  These parts are getting harder to find and the costs are going up.  Just do some searchning on Ebay and look at what they are asking now for parts.

 

Example I have a 39 desoto one vendor is selling a NOS in the factory box the taillight for $160.  I could care less about the box because the box can not be put on the car.  I saw these lens years ago at 35.  That is a ridiculous price.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Plymouthy Adams]

asking is not necessarily  getting.....case in point...hood emblem for a certain car I have one is for sale NOS at 1600.00 + dollars......has been listed for over three years....while you and I know this is crazy off the wall....some day a restorer may pull the trigger and snap it up.....the seller only needs one buyer....and yes they not making these anymore either and the sources are slim....getting slimmer

[Bryan]

54 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

the solenoid listed for the 48 Dodge on rock is 12 volts....amperage issues could be involved including clamping power of the secondary contacts when energized with 6 volts...

Thanks a bunch..didn't notice that until I looked at the "info" details section. Will buy the correct one

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 

you would think their listing under make and model would have the correct voltage unit listed.....my post was just to alert the wrong listing....good post on the correct voltage solenoid...

 

I had to pay attention to that stuff when I converted to 12v, so it's in my mind to look at it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

when modernizing one is attuned to the needs of the newer requirements.....while on stock application you would think you were getting the correct parts....causes not only delays but frustration as many folks time to play with the toys is limited...

[Bryan]

Funny about the generator and positive ground.  My father use to do something simple to "polarize the generator"..quickly shorting 2 terminals but I forgot.  Heading off to church, will be back in an hour.

[Bryan]

Still researching.. a lot of other sites listing same SS-549 solenoid.  O'reilly site says its 6V.  Starter Solenoid - 1948 Dodge Deluxe | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

[desoto1939]

in your first picture what is that metal rod pointing down on an angle towards the starter rely?  This is dangerous since it could touch the relay and then cause other issues with the battery.  Might think about cleaning up the wires and replace with modern wire on the sections that are bad or the cloth covering has exposed bare wires.

 

Always use larger wire than regular wire so start with 14 gage at the very least.

 

Rich Hartung

[Bryan]

Standard's own site says it's 12V  - so that settles it.   They have others like SS 544 that are 6V, but no SS548.

[Bryan]

6 minutes ago, desoto1939 said:

in your first picture what is that metal rod pointing down on an angle towards the starter rely?  This is dangerous since it could touch the relay and then cause other issues with the battery.  Might think about cleaning up the wires and replace with modern wire on the sections that are bad or the cloth covering has exposed bare wires.

 

Always use larger wire than regular wire so start with 14 gage at the very least.

 

Rich Hartung

Yep, that's the hood latch cable. I'm removing the whole front end fenders and panels.  All will be reassembled.  Already buying cloth repro wire and will get heat shrink tubing. Plus I'm going to use slightly larger wires

[Bryan]

This looks more like mine. Wonder if the orientation matters? 

[Sniper]

54 minutes ago, Bryan said:

This looks more like mine. Wonder if the orientation matters?

 

There's a joke in there somewhere.

 

But for voltage purposes, no it doesn't matter.  Functionally, the small terminal is wired to the ignition switch and energizes that solenoid in start.  When energized a pair of contacts internal to the solenoid mate and pass voltage to the starter.  If it's real fancy it'll have a diode on the coil part of the solenoid (internally) to prevent voltage spikes and noise.  But it's doubtful since your 48 is pretty much immune to this issue.

[Bryan]

I wrote an email to Standard to see what they would say about the SS-549 being listed for the 1948 Dodge.  If nothing else I'll get the 544A and paint it black.  I went thru earlier models (and saw foot starts) and later ones (totally different).. so there's only a couple that would work.

[OUTFXD]

So... Is this an appropriate place to ask about the advantages of Solid state vs Mechanical relays on our cars?

Edited November 8, 2021 by OUTFXD

[Bryan]

9 minutes ago, OUTFXD said:

So... Is this an appropriate place to ask about the advantages of Solid state vs Mechanical relays on our cars?

Not really..I'm not trying to do a lot of upgrades right now.  I know about Petronix and other stuff, alternators, etc.  Just want to get the motor overhauled and get it running. Later I might do improvements.  Probably just be putting around the local area, no high class car shows 300 miles away.

[Bryan]

And I'm kinda tired of solid state electronics on my 92 Dakota..perfect motor...stalls randomly...same crap was on my step mother's Buick...MAF sensor...same crap on my nephew's Mitsubishi..crank sensor.. no..not really.

[OUTFXD]

I understand the mistrust of Engineered Obsolescence.  I am trying to gauge for myself what is a legitimate upgrade and what is a carrot on a stick to get you to buy things you dont need. Didnt mean to hijack your thread!

[Bryan]

I can work on electronic stuff, just don't want it on my old car. As I told my wife, with an old car, if you check the fan belts and tires, and nothing's been making noise like the motor or wheels, usually you can go on a trip and make it back home. With new cars there's never a guarantee. One of 10 sensors might go out and you're stranded.  I've even repaired the CDI on neighbor's KVF 400 Kawasaki 4 wheeler.  See pictures... didn't mean to be gruff...was just not wanting a war to break out like the oil types or headers wars..

[Dan Hiebert]

The solenoid, relays, and regulator on our D24 are all original to it.  These are rugged components, and thankfully, our car spent it's "rode-hard-put-up-wet" days in the southwest, so there are no rust issues with those components either.  I cleaned and painted ours over 25 years ago, and although they are fading a bit now, no issues at all.  They stand up well to refurbishing.  That being said, I also bought new components over 25 years ago - just in case.  That "case" not having arisen yet, but still possible.