dpollo Posted February 7, 2022 Report Posted February 7, 2022 Good job ! On a car which has rusted to the extent yours has, it would be a good idea to replace all the steel brake lines. It is a fairly easy job . The line over the rear axle near the tailpipe is particularly vulnerable and so is the line directly below the battery tray. Quote
bartenderfloyd Posted February 9, 2022 Author Report Posted February 9, 2022 On 2/6/2022 at 10:52 PM, dpollo said: Good job ! On a car which has rusted to the extent yours has, it would be a good idea to replace all the steel brake lines. It is a fairly easy job . The line over the rear axle near the tailpipe is particularly vulnerable and so is the line directly below the battery tray. Yes, I inspected them already. Looks like the last owner replaced them and the brakes because they were all in good condition. 1 Quote
bartenderfloyd Posted February 22, 2022 Author Report Posted February 22, 2022 The carpet is in. It's not the greatest but I did it myself and it's better than a metal floor. I wish it would have been a better fit but I made due with what I had. All of the cuts will be under the seat so I'm not worried about looks. Now on to the windlace and headliner. 1 Quote
RobertKB Posted February 22, 2022 Report Posted February 22, 2022 When the seats are in, the carpet will look great! Good job! 1 Quote
bartenderfloyd Posted March 21, 2022 Author Report Posted March 21, 2022 (edited) It's been a busy few weeks. Finally found the time to install the windlace, headliner, door panels, and seat belts. interior is now 95% done. Only have the door pull handles left to cover. Here are some progress pics I didn't take pics of the install but this was the result. I was lucky all the original hardware was still on this car. I rewired whatever was running along the roof because I figure this is the last time I'll see it. I can see why the headliner is so difficult to do well. But it's easy if you aren't bothered by wrinkles. Took my wife and I about 4 hours start to finish. We let it hang in there for a few days and then started in the front (using both glue, 3M 94 adhesive, and staples). The teeth grabbed real well in the rear and on the sides but I did use lots of glue when I could. I had to switch to regular contact cement because the 3m fumes were brutal, even with all the garage doors opened. Thank you for all the tips, especially user @harmony who sent me step by step pics of his project. Install Edited March 21, 2022 by bartenderfloyd 1 Quote
bartenderfloyd Posted March 21, 2022 Author Report Posted March 21, 2022 Have to split this into a few groups of pics. On to the door panels. Used the old panels as a guide. Trim pieces on. The drop light make the colors look off. Quote
bartenderfloyd Posted March 21, 2022 Author Report Posted March 21, 2022 (edited) Seats going in, seat belts, and I'm done for now. I bought regular belts for the back and 3 points for the front. I can't figure out how the 3 points will work as the B pillar is pretty small and my wife wants to keep the clothes hooks. I'll have to order regular belts for the front. Going to start working on the exterior. still need to wet sand and polish the paint. Edited March 21, 2022 by bartenderfloyd 4 Quote
JerseyHarold Posted March 21, 2022 Report Posted March 21, 2022 You're making good progress. Looks great! 1 Quote
harmony Posted March 21, 2022 Report Posted March 21, 2022 Looking really good. I'm glad my pictures and notes helped in the process of installing the headliner. I'm sorry I missed your post back in November when you were asking advice on the hand brake lining. Did you ever get that project completed? Did you do it yourself or send it out to be done? If it is still on your list of to-do's, I can link you to the page on my '48 Chrysler webpage on how I did my own. Bernbaum's lining doesn't have holes in it, so although the job isn't terribly hard to do, you do have to be methodical with the process and careful to get it lined up before drilling holes, and the countersink holes have to be slot shaped for the rivets they supply. I've also explained the process of adjusting the hand brake on that page. But perhaps by now you already know all this. Quote
OUTFXD Posted March 21, 2022 Report Posted March 21, 2022 Wow your interior looks great! and I am jealous of your dash! Keep up the good work! Quote
bartenderfloyd Posted March 21, 2022 Author Report Posted March 21, 2022 2 hours ago, harmony said: Looking really good. I'm glad my pictures and notes helped in the process of installing the headliner. I'm sorry I missed your post back in November when you were asking advice on the hand brake lining. Did you ever get that project completed? Did you do it yourself or send it out to be done? If it is still on your list of to-do's, I can link you to the page on my '48 Chrysler webpage on how I did my own. Bernbaum's lining doesn't have holes in it, so although the job isn't terribly hard to do, you do have to be methodical with the process and careful to get it lined up before drilling holes, and the countersink holes have to be slot shaped for the rivets they supply. I've also explained the process of adjusting the hand brake on that page. But perhaps by now you already know all this. I did do the lining. I also ordered it from Bernbaum's. It didn't have the holes but came with the rivets. It was pretty self explanitory and adjusting the brake around the drum wasn't too hard either. Funny thing, a month ago I saw some fraying on the parking brake cable. Sure enough, that broke too. Another order from Bernbaum's and also an easy fix. 1 Quote
moparfun Posted March 25, 2022 Report Posted March 25, 2022 Good job, really coming together well. Course I am a little partial, here's a picture of mine 2 Quote
Booger Posted March 25, 2022 Report Posted March 25, 2022 On 3/20/2022 at 9:01 PM, bartenderfloyd said: Seats going in, seat belts, and I'm done for now. I bought regular belts for the back and 3 points for the front. I can't figure out how the 3 points will work as the B pillar is pretty small and my wife wants to keep the clothes hooks. I'll have to order regular belts for the front. Going to start working on the exterior. still need to wet sand and polish the paint. Dude you are so killing it. What a journey! Thanks for the inspiration 1 Quote
mvpcustoms Posted December 6, 2023 Report Posted December 6, 2023 On 2/8/2022 at 8:23 PM, bartenderfloyd said: Yes, I inspected them already. Looks like the last owner replaced them and the brakes because they were all in good condition. one of the safest things you can do is change to a dual master on the brakes Quote
Ivan_B Posted December 6, 2023 Report Posted December 6, 2023 On 2/22/2022 at 6:55 AM, bartenderfloyd said: The carpet is in. This comment is a bit outdated, but to anyone doing the carpet in the future: you should remove the pedals and push them through the small holes in the carpet instead of cutting the carpet all the way to the top. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted December 6, 2023 Report Posted December 6, 2023 (edited) 4 hours ago, mvpcustoms said: one of the safest things you can do is change to a dual master on the brakes I agree the dual-chamber master cylinder is a great upgrade for our cars, I did the same on my P15. A couple of observations about your bracket, and the photos may not be giving me a correct impression. If that is a 1/4" bolt being used for the pedal pivot, I would absolutely upsize it to match the diameter of the bore in the pedal (1/2"?). It appears your bracket design has the bolt cantilevered with support only on one end. That pivot carries a very high load during a panic stop and if it bends or fails you have no way to develop pressure in the cylinder. A steel rod welded into the bracket to match the pedal bore might be the ultimate solution. There also seems to be a mismatch in the bore sizes of the pedal pushrod pin and the eye on the pushrod. Once again.....not a place to have less than a perfect fit. Also keep an eye on the cantilevered portion of the bracket that carries the cylinder, that material looks a little light and you don't want any flex or fatigue cracks. A gusset could be added to tie the cylinder carrier to the major part of the bracket to stiffen up the structure. The above comments aren't meant to be critical, just made out of concern about what is probably the single most safety critical component in the car. Edited December 6, 2023 by Sam Buchanan Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted December 6, 2023 Report Posted December 6, 2023 27 minutes ago, Ivan_B said: This comment is a bit outdated, but to anyone doing the carpet in the future: you should remove the pedals and push them through the small holes in the carpet instead of cutting the carpet all the way to the top. Owners choice. I've had the carpet out of my P15 more times than I wish to service the transmission and clutch and after messing with the carpet around the pedals I slit the carpet above the pedals. My carpet has a thick enough pile that the cuts don't show and they sure make it easier to get the carpet out and back in the car. Quote
mvpcustoms Posted December 7, 2023 Report Posted December 7, 2023 23 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said: I agree the dual-chamber master cylinder is a great upgrade for our cars, I did the same on my P15. A couple of observations about your bracket, and the photos may not be giving me a correct impression. If that is a 1/4" bolt being used for the pedal pivot, I would absolutely upsize it to match the diameter of the bore in the pedal (1/2"?). It appears your bracket design has the bolt cantilevered with support only on one end. That pivot carries a very high load during a panic stop and if it bends or fails you have no way to develop pressure in the cylinder. A steel rod welded into the bracket to match the pedal bore might be the ultimate solution. There also seems to be a mismatch in the bore sizes of the pedal pushrod pin and the eye on the pushrod. Once again.....not a place to have less than a perfect fit. Also keep an eye on the cantilevered portion of the bracket that carries the cylinder, that material looks a little light and you don't want any flex or fatigue cracks. A gusset could be added to tie the cylinder carrier to the major part of the bracket to stiffen up the structure. The above comments aren't meant to be critical, just made out of concern about what is probably the single most safety critical component in the car. pics were just an example, ive locked them down several times and no problems. finished product has additional support brackets and bushing in arm from master, no flex and no play. thanks for advice though Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted December 7, 2023 Report Posted December 7, 2023 10 minutes ago, mvpcustoms said: pics were just an example, ive locked them down several times and no problems. finished product has additional support brackets and bushing in arm from master, no flex and no play. thanks for advice though Excellent. Quote
50PlymP-20 Posted December 8, 2023 Report Posted December 8, 2023 After installing the dual reservoir master cylinder, I'm assuming you need a new or modified access "hole" in the floor plan to check the fluid level. How did you configure/design the new access panel? I'm about to do this, too. Quote
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