Bryan Posted December 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2021 55 minutes ago, Sniper said: Actually, that probably is normal the tip is supported by the pilot bushing in the crank. Do you know the part # for the bushing? I ordered a PB-286-HD from Rock Auto. It's about 3/4" ID. The tip of the transmission shaft is approx 0.5". Looked around but none of the selling sites mentions the ID. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2021 Got the last of the valves out today. Also measured the upper edge of my cylinders. They seem to be standard 3.25". Just need to get a dial bore gauge to measure further down. Have a bunch of outside micrometers when I did my truck rear end. Reckon I'll order a bore gauge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2021 Lunch break. Well, about to pull the motor. Drained the oil which was a mini disaster. Somehow I had a lot more antifreeze than oil, was like flushing a toilet. Filled one of those 6" deep black plastic drain pans. I'm hoping it was a recent mistake where it drained in as I was taking stuff apart, and not sitting the last 30 yrs. Only positive thing was it was almost pure. Was storing it like that. I took the head off after draining the block..oh well we'll see. Tried to take the distributor off. Removed front & rear timing adjust bolts, vacuum advance & rotor. Could not get the dist to come off. Found that my great plastic sheet roll doesn't help keep liquids off the concrete if you've been crawling in and out nicking little holes in it. Plus it took me more time putting up tools and parts getting stuff out of the way than doing anything else. back to the salt mines... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted December 29, 2021 Report Share Posted December 29, 2021 Be sure to get that block tested for cracks before spending any money ordering rebuild parts, or doing any machining. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2021 50 minutes ago, keithb7 said: Be sure to get that block tested for cracks before spending any money ordering rebuild parts, or doing any machining. Will do. Or before having broken studs pulled. Never had it really gushing out of the head. Had it mostly drained. Just had the radiator hose pulled off the thermostat and it seeped down the side for a while. Plus the engine drain cock on the distributor side weeped for a while with the filled tube unplugged. but didn't see any really running down the engine side. Have you ever seen one cracked underneath where it leaked AF in the oil pan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2021 Got her pulled. Had to fill up the brand new Harbor Freight 2 ton engine crane to get it to work but it did..substituted bottle top for their crappy rubber plug. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted December 29, 2021 Report Share Posted December 29, 2021 Curious did you have coolant mixed in with the oil when you looked at the dipstick? Or did it show up after disassemble engine and pull it out? Thinking you being in SC freeze cracks may not be real common. One engine I have, when I went to drain the oil ... was filled to the brim with diesel fuel and filled my bucket. Wrench on brother! We both kinda doing the same thing today ... I am working on my wife Dodge today, about 30 years newer then yours. Still surprises as we go. Swapping in a used 1991 engine for a 1993. I have to swap exhaust manifold & plenum for newer emissions. I just found the engine I am going to use has a broken intake manifold bolt. I assume it was that way from the factory? Motor never been apart. Just saying it is always something new or different when you dive into a project, something you never counted on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2021 2 hours ago, Los_Control said: Curious did you have coolant mixed in with the oil when you looked at the dipstick? Or did it show up after disassemble engine and pull it out? Thinking you being in SC freeze cracks may not be real common. One engine I have, when I went to drain the oil ... was filled to the brim with diesel fuel and filled my bucket. It's warm here, but even so to store it I was using almost pure antifreeze. I think I pulled the stick one time since the teardown. Didn't remember seeing a high level of anything. I'm hoping it just leaked in from something I took loose recently but man it was a lot. Not kidding, was like being under a house with a septic tank pipe and somebody flushed. Was filling the plastic drain pan before I could get the plug back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2021 Okay, today got the clutch and the bellhousing off. Fluid drive loosened but couldn't get it to come off. Didn't want to pry. Clutch was dry, but surface was down almost to the rivets. Think the throwout bearing holder is okay, not sure. Flywheel is a little dinged. Fluid drive plate was okay, just a lot of residue from the clutch on it. Somebody assembled it and left 3 of the studs out holding the FD to the crankshaft. Hope they aren't broke off, just missing. The guide pins for the bellhousing looks like someone has ground them down. They were almost flush on both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2021 On the next to the last picture some oil around the center but think it's from somebody oiling the bushings too much. Thye were doing everything else crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2022 Finally got the engine on a motor stand. That was a process. Had to go to town to get more bolts for he stand. Had to take the long legs off the motor stand to get it under the motor hanging from the hoist. Legs of the hoist and legs of the stand were so similar in spread they conflicted. I kept the motor suspended fully until I got it hooked to the stand, then I added one long leg. Partially let the motor down to give it enough slack to get the short leg of the stand outside the hoist, then added the 2nd long leg. As I mentioned before, had almost pure antifreeze in the motor (full), but from rust on the crank I could tell what condensation water in the oil did about 20yrs ago (2 separate events). Didn't see any obvious cracks in the block but need to take the crank & rods out to inspect better. I did see evidence that I bent #3 rod by putting a washer brace in the cylinder while I was trying to get the front crank bolt off. #3 is the only one where you can see the bronze bushing on one side of the upper rod. Also seeing an 020 on the front of the crank, assuming it's been turned but not sure. Rod caps, look like a few were changed. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 Think when I get the crankshaft out I'll turn the engine upright, duct tape (or plug) off the side openings for the water pump and distribution tube and fill it with water or light oil to see if it leaks underneath. Will have magnafluxed anyway but if I see a leak why bother.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 No work today. Still having high winds that's supposed to die down by 12 pm. Any comments on the rod bearing caps? Seem like different model #s, which would be expected between odd & even but almost each one seems different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 Got over an hour in today. Finally the winds died down. Got all the pistons out. Must not have been any ridge, they tapped easily out. Looks like I did bend # 3 rod or else pushed it off the upper bushing. Lower rod bearings are .020. Two other rods are rusty from water in block..will replace. Crank turns easily by hand, but definitely worn, looks to be from dirt . The old "flush it out with kerosene" suggestion did that. Pistons still have some cross hatch pattern. None of the rings were stuck, broke or the lands worn but one ring had some chips out in bottom. #6 piston had a chip out in the side of skirt. Could not visuallly find a crack in the block that let all that pure antifreeze in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted January 4, 2022 Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 18 hours ago, Bryan said: #6 piston had a chip out in the side of skirt Interesting, as the core 230 I bought to hot rod has the same issue, only more so as chunks were in the pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 22 minutes ago, Sniper said: Interesting, as the core 230 I bought to hot rod has the same issue, only more so as chunks were in the pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted January 4, 2022 Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 I wish that were the extent of it for me #6 cylinder though. , #6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 Today I had to clean up a few things, only pulled the oil pump, distributor and 5/8" relief valve. The distributor had a thick cork-like gasket where it fits in the block. The distributor shaft at the end towards the pump didn't have any play side to side within itself, but with the fit in the block you could rock it slightly back and forth. Could not get the oil sump tube out of the block. Used a set of channel locks, padded underneath on the tube right above the block...nope. Used an adjustable wrench on the 90 degree bend near the sump, nope. Heated it around where it goes in the block..nope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 4, 2022 Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 I usually use large channel locks on the bend. Otherwise try a pipe wrench at the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 Question on Distributor...is it supposed to have a little play in block? Sure was hard enough to pull out, but I can wobble it slightly back and forth. The internal shaft is fine. Today going to pull the crank and that pesky oil sump. Ordered an oil pump on Amazon Melling M-37. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 Pulled timing cover and crank hub. Might have found where antifreeze is coming from. My battery powered impact wrench on a gear puller took hub off in 1 minute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2022 Pulled timing & crank gears. Crankshaft gear was easy. Cam gear - duh, well if I hadn't gone 15 minutes not realizing my puller bolt had reached its limit it would have went faster. Had to put a short bolt in the bottom of the hole.. Still not feeling 100% but at least I got something done today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2022 (edited) Got warmed up and went out again to check the new block out. Took oil pump and distributor off. No broken or stripped threads in block. All the head bolts are out and threads look good. Pushed the pistons out. Cylinders measured approx 3.25 at top so not been bored before. No visible cracks. Edited January 10, 2022 by Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Pulled the crank and camshaft. Hope the camshaft isn't ruined, has a little rust on it. Crank was HEAVY. Main bearing inserts have a strange oval around the oil holes. Don't know whether they come like that or was modified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerJon Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) Sorry if you have already said, but what is your end goal of the engine build? Fairly stock or moderate modifications? The '53 cam should be a little beefier that the earlier cam, I think at the snout where it attaches to the timing gear. Oregon Cam can regrind these cams to factory or performance specs for a very reasonable price. They also resurface lifters. George Asche can also handle performance regrinds. Edited January 12, 2022 by FarmerJon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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