Why can't I find new fuel lines for 48 DeSoto?

[MarcDeSoto]

It's easy to find new brakes lines.  Why is it that fuel lines don't seem to be available, except for the short flexible fuel line?  Or should I just keep the original fuel line?  

[maddmaxx1949]

8 minutes ago, MarcDeSoto said:

It's easy to find new brakes lines.  Why is it that fuel lines don't seem to be available, except for the short flexible fuel line?  Or should I just keep the original fuel line?  

I make mine out of 5/16 steel. You can get a roll and make your own fairly inexpensively if you have a flareing tool. Haven't bought some in a while but I imagine steel lines are still pretty common. 

[maddmaxx1949]

https://www.amazon.com/L-4-1-Inline-Tube-Stainless-Tubing/dp/B01CRHS3DO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=stainless+fuel+line+5%2F16"&qid=1618023225&s=automotive&sr=1-3

[Art Bailey]

 5/16 NiCopp and all the fittings can be found at Summit Racing, and you can get 5/16 stainless steel spiral wrap on ebay. Get a flare tool, and a bender, you're in business.

Edited April 10, 2021 by ratbailey

[Marcel Backs]

You may be able to find a pre bent kit but it still has to be routed. I did the same as was already mentioned and bought a roll of  line. My friend who has a lot of skill and patience and I had the lines bent, routed, flared and fitted using new line clips up to the carb in an afternoon. When flaring make sure you have a good rig like a Blue Point or equivalent to ensure precise, leak free flares. Use new fittings throughout. Once lines are installed check for friction points and isolate accordingly. Your old lines probably look like the inside of my arteries, so this extra step will ensure reliable, clean fuel delivery for many years to come. Save old lines to pattern new ones then recycle. All the Best, M

[MarcDeSoto]

Thanks for all the tips!  I noticed my fuel line ends on the left side frame and I don't know how the fuel line is routed to the other side of the engine.  Does anyone have a pic of the routing?  

[Dodgeb4ya]

Briefly....It starts from the tank...up up and over the left side of the frame to the front of frame.

Then wraps around the front of frame to the fuel pump area.

Connects to the rubber fuel pump flex hose.

Isn't your original line on your frame?

[MarcDeSoto]

Yes, the original fuel line is there, but it ends right about where the Master cylinder is with a screw on connection.  So the line continues around the frame to the flex hose on the other side.  I guess it's always hugging the frame.  I probably have the missing line somewhere in my parts.  

 

[chrysler1941]

9 hours ago, ratbailey said:

 5/16 NiCopp and all the fittings can be found at Summit Racing, and you can get 5/16 stainless steel spiral wrap on ebay. Get a flare tool, and a bender, you're in business.

Yes a quality flare tool. 25 ft rolls of Nickeled copper tubes no-names are cheaper on ebay. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OE-Zinc-Automotive-Steel-Brake-Fuel-Transmission-Line-Tubing-5-16-OD-Coil-Roll/191763184748

[Art Bailey]

13 minutes ago, chrysler1941 said:

Yes a quality flare tool. 25 ft rolls of Nickeled copper tubes no-names are cheaper on ebay. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OE-Zinc-Automotive-Steel-Brake-Fuel-Transmission-Line-Tubing-5-16-OD-Coil-Roll/191763184748

The quality flare tool is the tricky part. I didn't want to spend several hundred dollars, so I found an Imperial Eastman flaring tool on ebay. Folks on the HAMB had said that it was good enough. The one I bought looked like it had been made by prison labor. The part that does the actual flaring had very poor finish, and it was tricky, but not impossible, to get a decent flare. I bought another made by Mac, same deal. If you go this route, let me know, and I'll take pics and tell you what I learned to make this crap tool work. Also, the NiCopp takes far less effort to squash into an inverted flare compared to steel, so you have to learn when to stop cranking on the tool. You'll be making a number of practice flares and learning what it takes to get a flare that looks like the originals that were in there. 

Edited April 10, 2021 by ratbailey

[Sam Buchanan]

I used pre-flared brake lines when replacing all the fuel lines on my P15. Unions can be used to join various lengths of brake line to make everything come out right.

[Marcel Backs]

Here are some pictures of the front fuel line routing on my 40 dodge. The union is at about the same area as the master cylinder. Notice isolation points where the line passes around the front of the frame. I have also included a pic of the flaring tool used in this operation.

[Dave72dt]

I've got a similar set from NAPA 20+ years ago.  I find the cupro-nickel somewhat easier to mess up the flare than the steel lines so a couple of steps I take include making sure the halves of the line clamp are parallel with each other (there's enough slop in the wing nuts a slight misalignment is possible) a light pass with a file on the line where the line cutter has raised a slight edge and lubrication on the die for the first part of the flare and the point of the flare press for the second part, making sure it's centered before tightening.  I also back the press off and retighten it once or twice before removing the line from the clamp.  The cupro-nickel line is so soft it's easy to get a lopsided flare so a little extra attention helps.  Other than that, standard tool usage instructions apply.

[MarcDeSoto]

My thanks for all of you and to Marcel especially for those fine pics!  Marc.

[Dodgeb4ya]

13 hours ago, Marcel Backs said:

Here are some pictures of the front fuel line routing on my 40 dodge. The union is at about the same area as the master cylinder. Notice isolation points where the line passes around the front of the frame. I have also included a pic of the flaring tool used in this operation.

Very nice tubing work!?

[Marcel Backs]

Thanks Marc, I will help as much as I can. I want to see that 3 window brought back to it’s former glory like all of your colleagues on the site do. We are all a courageous bunch with these projects, taking on jobs that many would shudder at! All the Best M

[Frank Elder]

@Marcel Backs in the picture containing the flexi fuel line it looks as though your hard line is touching the rad........is it?

[Art Bailey]

21 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

I've got a similar set from NAPA 20+ years ago.  I find the cupro-nickel somewhat easier to mess up the flare than the steel lines so a couple of steps I take include making sure the halves of the line clamp are parallel with each other (there's enough slop in the wing nuts a slight misalignment is possible) a light pass with a file on the line where the line cutter has raised a slight edge and lubrication on the die for the first part of the flare and the point of the flare press for the second part, making sure it's centered before tightening.  I also back the press off and retighten it once or twice before removing the line from the clamp.  The cupro-nickel line is so soft it's easy to get a lopsided flare so a little extra attention helps.  Other than that, standard tool usage instructions apply.

Another big issue is the press thing with the cone that creates the flare. On the two that I bought, the threaded part is nowhere near centered, and the finish on the underside of the feet (hope that's clear) is a mess, making it sit crooked. I got it to work by seating the cone in the die (or tubing, for the second pass) first, and then cranking on the bolt slowly, bringing the feet up to the underside of the clamp, all the while making sure the cone stays square in relation to the tubing. In one of the videos I watched, it was suggested that you put a chamfer on the tubing, and also use a reamer after cutting the tubing, so I do that, too. 

[Marcel Backs]

All is good Frank it could be just the picture. This was the most aggravating part of the fuel line installation because of tight bend with little space. The bolt down union block holds the line from making contact but it is close.Thanks for having my back! M

[Cudan]

On 4/10/2021 at 5:39 PM, Marcel Backs said:

Here are some pictures of the front fuel line routing on my 40 dodge. The union is at about the same area as the master cylinder. Notice isolation points where the line passes around the front of the frame. I have also included a pic of the flaring tool used in this operation

Is it necessairy to use the isolation at that points, I did not use it.

 

Dan

[Marcel Backs]

These points are usually spots where you can get vibration combined with metal to metal contact of the line. If line is solid and clearance is good this is not necessary. The area that I have pictured on my car is very tough to access and in very close quarters once the front clip is mounted and I found it necessary to isolate the line as a precaution. Notice the proximity of the brake line in this area as well. M PS if you use spiral wrapped line it is not necessary. My original fuel line was all spiral wrapped but replaced it with plain steel line.

Edited April 12, 2021 by Marcel Backs
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