Flat Bed Progress

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Spent a little time the last few days working some wood down to replace my old bed. Thought I’d share a progress picture and get any advice as I’m just starting to drill and bolt down the deck. I am using 2 1/4” thick white oak and matching the original holes in the bed to avoid Swiss cheese in the metal. I already know the bolt spacing will not be perfect as they were “some what” random drilled without a gig when bed was made. Plan on using boiled linseed oil when the weather warms up a little so I can repair marks over the next few years. I’m no carpenter by trade so open to any advice as I continue.

[ggdad1951]

good choice on the white oak...no rotting.

[bkahler]

I'm surprised by the 2-1/4" thickness you're using.  On the 1/2 tons I think the bed boards were in the one inch range.  Did the 1-1/2 tons require boards that were so much thicker?

 

Brad

 

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

I don’t know for sure the bed was manufactured by Dodge, I believe most were aftermarket that I have seen. The recess pocket measures 2.050”, 2 1/4” gives me a little extra to run a floor sander across the deck a few times without hitting the metal. With use, I’m sure it will get tore up and I’ll cringe at the first mark.

[bkahler]

36 minutes ago, 47 dodge 1.5 ton said:

I don’t know for sure the bed was manufactured by Dodge, I believe most were aftermarket that I have seen. The recess pocket measures 2.050”, 2 1/4” gives me a little extra to run a floor sander across the deck a few times without hitting the metal. With use, I’m sure it will get tore up and I’ll cringe at the first mark.

 

That will be one stout bed with the 2-1/4" oak!  

[Dave72dt]

The tiltbed I used in the implement business had a 2 x 6 treated tongue and groove floor.  The thickness was needed to carry the loads imposed on it betw, een the crossmembers.  Bed had been on at least 4 different chassis. side rails and wood bedding changed out once but was due again as well as the cross members after 30 plus years of use.  Wood wasn't sanded or babied and had many scars, gouges and nail holes but it served it's purpose well.   2" material would be correct for a flat bed.

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Nearest I can tell by looking at the drilling, planks were random with 14”, 10” approx by about 2” thick or so, next floor was most likely tongue and groove using screws in the frame. The 3rd deck were just 2 x 8 planks floating and not fastened down. Could have had more decks, I don’t know? I decided to kind of dress it up a little and still plan to use it for what it is.

[Brent B3B]

9 hours ago, 47 dodge 1.5 ton said:

I don’t know for sure the bed was manufactured by Dodge, I believe most were aftermarket that I have seen. 

The rub rails could be a clue, from the literature I’ve seen with factory flat bed/ stake beds, there is a “bend” on the lower part, around the outer wheel. That stands out to me. 
 

Both of mine are after market “DYI” beds 

 

I like your bed a lot 
 

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Been very slow, 6 coats of linseed & turpentine mix and still getting dry spots. Thought I’d post another progress picture although not finished.  

[billrigsby]

I feel your pain, I did one in the 80s with red oak, on a sorry, 79 Datsun pickup during the mini truck craze.

 

I don't remember what oil concoction I was using but I think I went through 10 good coats before it actually stopped just soaking in.

 

That's looking really nice though.

[Gaige]

I believe we started with 2” maple boards. We had to notch the ends and the side boards to get them seated under the rails. Then we coated it with pecan stain and polyurethaned 2 coats, so far. Also we only put 1 screw in instead of the original 2 in each board/support..the gap in the bed was taken care of by another wider board we had. So far a 4 year project, hopefully on the road very soon. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  each board/railw It’s been a 4 year project truck so far. Hopefully on the road soon. 

Edited April 22, 2021 by Gaige

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

So I guess your bed has a lip to hold the boards on the end, would be a better set up. Yours turned out real nice. Mine doesn’t have a lip and I had to bolt the ends fast. I thought about welding a plate across each end but wasn’t sure how I could do the final board. I string lined the entire bed between holes to get board widths, then fit each board, transfer marked each hole from the existing holes to the bottom. From there I drilled the holes through, flipped and c’bored, coated twice with linseed all sides. Installed the boards with 1/8” spaces and bolted each one down as I went. Then went back with rough sander to level the top a little. I had a real mess with the planer mill I used as the boards were done in 4 batches do to excessive cracking. These are some that I rejected. Guess I could have used a softer wood and may have had less scrap.

Edited April 22, 2021 by 47 dodge 1.5 ton

[Gaige]

Yes, the last 3 (middle) boards had to have the forward edge routed out twice the depth (length ?) of the others. This way they slipped in but then we pulled it toward the back to be flush. Right behind he cab we will have a large treasure chest to cover he lengthy router marks.  It is all a work in progress as we go ..

we also had about 3 unusable boards and a few could lay flatter too! 

[Jeff Balazs]

47 Dodge 1.5 Ton;

Your flat bed looks great. As a professional woodworker I truly appreciate the effort that has gone into this.

Just be careful disposing of any rags etc.... as spontaneous combustion can happen with this sort of finish. Had a good customer building a custom home in Oregon years ago. They had a finisher do an oil finish on the flooring. The finisher left some oil soaked rags laying around....and the house was a total write off the next morning.

 

Jeff

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

I have tried to be very careful leaving the oil rags air out before discarding (there has been more than I can count). Is it safe to leave a rag over the mixture bucket? I have been doing this to keep the remainder from evaporating and minimize the odor in the shop.  I have not had any advice  on the correct containment of the rags and really appreciate your comments. The last thing I want is my shop to catch fire while working. I was very concerned running the 200,000 btu turbo heater back in February while putting on each coat. Again, thank you!   
 

I was also wondering about putting a few coats of tung oil on over the linseed oil? That would provide a harder finish but was not sure if it would be an issue? I have only used tung oil on a few of my shotgun stocks in the past and it seemed to be a little harder than linseed oil in my mind.

Edited April 23, 2021 by 47 dodge 1.5 ton

[ggdad1951]

All my potential fire rags get put in a metal bin after use, be they from wood working or vehicle.  When I'm woodworking, I put the application rag IN the stain and put the lid back on for re-use later.   IMO you don't have to worry while using the rag, main concern is after use and it's just sitting there.  

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

I need to clarify a little better. I use a fresh shirt/ rags each time to wipe off excess oils between coats. Sometimes a week or two depending on how long it takes. I have been laying the used rag/ shirt out flat for about a week before discarding (mostly in the shop due to rain). The mixture bucket usually has an inch or two of remaining Linseed/turpentine mix that I have been putting a rag over to keep from evaporating. My trash cans are plastic and only go out once a week, so I put the old, dry rags in when I take it out. I’m sure if I set a match to them after dry, they would go up pretty quick. My question is, once dry are the safe to discard?

[ccudahy]

Here is a little explaination why linseed oil is so dangerous.

 

 

"Drying oils, especially linseed oil (raw or boiled), are the only finishing materials that spontaneously combust. Solvents don’t spontaneously combust, paint strippers (including paint or finish residue) don’t spontaneously combust, and no type of varnish spontaneously combusts. It’s not totally clear whether 100% tung oil can spontaneously combust, so treat it like it does.

As linseed oil dries, it generates heat as a byproduct. If you wad up linseed-oil-soaked rags or pile them on top of each other, the heat generated in the middle can’t dissipate. It builds up until it reaches the flash point of the cloth and it bursts into flame.

The easy and sure way to protect yourself if you use any product that contains linseed oil, including Danish Oil and all oil-based stains and glazes, is to hang your rags over the edge of a trash can or similar object or spread the rags out on the floor until they dry. Don’t pile them up, as this is no different than a wadded-up rag. Once dry, you can safely throw the rags in the trash. Dried oil on rags is no different than a dried oil finish or stain on a piece of wood.

If you work in a shop with several or more people, it’s wise to establish a protocol where everyone puts their oil-soaked rags into water or an air-tight container to ensure that no one forgets to leave them open to the air. But if you work alone, this shouldn’t be necessary.

However, submerging oily rags in water or putting them in an air-tight container isn’t the last step. When you take them out, they can still spontaneously combust because the oil hasn’t dried. So spread them out as described."  

 

– Bob Flexner from  In Flexner On Finishing, Flexner on Finishing Blog 10 - www.popularwoodworking.com

Edited April 23, 2021 by ccudahy

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Very good read, sounds like I am doing as suggested but may not be I good idea to cover the oil bucket with a rag.   
 

Still could use advice on tung oil over linseed once dry. Has anyone tried this? I am going to do a test pc on scrap over the next few months and will give a report.

[ccudahy]

Found this answer to your tung oil question:

 

[Jeff Balazs]

I stay away from oil based finishes for the most part. Had a good buddy hobbiest that built a dining room set for his home. Got it all done and started finishing it with tung oil. After a day of finishing he went in to use the restroom and fortunately he was not long. Walked back out to the garage just in time to see the rags smoldering on his work bench. Got his attention right then and forever. Called me a few minutes later to tell me about it. Could have been a disaster. If I were finishing this way I would have a metal can with a good lid and soak the rags in water with the lid on..Aint nothing to mess with.

[ggdad1951]

I've used tung oil extensively over the years...never has an issue.

[Jeff Balazs]

1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

I've used tung oil extensively over the years...never has an issue.

Yep.......and it only takes one bad experience to change that. Might be a bit safer in a cold damp climate?  Here where it is very dry and warm most of the time it just doesn't take much to get a fire going.

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Only ever heard one story when my great uncle worked for Dodge. The story went that another mechanic 3 bays down from him was undercoating a car with it(not sure it was BLO or just linseed) with a sprayer and he lit a torch while doing an exhaust job. Said it shot across the 3 bays and scared the heck of them both. Said from then on, only undersprayed with it when no one was on a torch.

[ggdad1951]

14 hours ago, Jeff Balazs said:

Yep.......and it only takes one bad experience to change that. Might be a bit safer in a cold damp climate?  Here where it is very dry and warm most of the time it just doesn't take much to get a fire going.

 

When I tung, my rag is only 6" square....and I don't put it where other things can light off.  Simple safety to me.