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ccudahy

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Everything posted by ccudahy

  1. Thank you for the tip. Did Arizona newspaper search, found 1 ad with all the MoPar dealers for Arizona for 1950. They were in Clifton, AZ (127 miles away from Miami, AZ) near New Mexico border.
  2. So, I bought my 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe (P15C) Club Coupe in August '20. The gentleman I purchased it from didn't remember much of the history of the car or when he got it. I learned that a MoPar owner could send info into Chrysler (can't bring myself to say Stellantis) and get a copy of the build card. I put my request in, October '20. I finally got my card emailed to me yesterday. I was curious is the dealership that ordered the car was still in business. I came up with nothing. So started doing more research. This is what I know. On the build card its says it was assembled in LA and Frisco Motor Sales for the dealer and Miami Arizona for destination. There was no Frisco Motor Sales in Miami, AZ. I searched the 1946-1950 Globe-Miami Directories. There was a T&M Garage in Miami that was a Plymouth dealer. I found a Frisco dealership in Texas. Tried talking to them about their history all they want is to sell me a new car. Tried looking up in Frisco, TX directories from the 1930-1950s and could not find any directories for that time period. Tried looking in the Frisco newspaper from same time period didn't see any car ads. The National DeSoto Club had a list of old dealerships in US, hoping one might also sell Plymouths, nothing on that list. What I would like to know is, does anyone remember, heard, or know of a Frisco Motor Sales and where was it located? Thanks for any help!
  3. No confusion, maybe misunderstanding. I don't have a high mounted or seperate 3rd brake light. My 3rd brake light is the Mayflower ship center light. Someone split that signal and ran it to the fender lights and to make 3 brake lights. The confusion was how to wire the 3 circuits intially, but doing like you suggested got it started and going in the right direction. It all worked out. I also got the 55w bulbs... VERY NICE!
  4. I just want to say thank you to @Ed McDermott,@Plymouthy Adams, and @LazyK . For their advice on wiring the turn signals. Ed for telling us where the wire ran through the car. Plymouthy Adams for telling to follow the instructions. LazyK for telling us to ignore the brake light signal to make all three tails brake lights. I ran 2 wire up front (yellow & green), dropped 1 wire (red) right in front of the firewall, and ran 2 wires (brown & orange) down the kick panel - under the door jamb rubber - under the carpet - under the back seat - to the trunk. Initally did just as Plymouthy Adams said, but all 3 taillights blinked. Remembering what LazyK said, cut the additional wire on the taillights. It worked out well! Thanks again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFxYxhxviN0 (Emergency Flashers) I also would like to give a big thank you, for the idea of a Harley Davidson cable clamp to @3046moparcoupe ? Next on the agenda is maybe headlight relays?!
  5. The first thing installed was the spark wire loom. Then the new Mopar oil filter housing and plumb the oil lines. This engine didn't have an oil filter before I owned it. The coil and distributor were next. Followed by the generator. Pulley and Belt finished out the parts. I decided to dress up the engine after getting some ribbing by my dad. Thanks to @keithb7 tutorial videos set the tappets and used continuity to set the point. Here is how it sounded when it started (no exhaust) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14Ldrl8Mj-0 Some finishing touches and this how it ended up.
  6. How I spent my summer, in a brief summary I worked on the Plymouth in my free time, when the weather cooperated, and my health permitted. From my intro, I said I had a grocery list of things I wanted to get to work on the car this spring. Spring finally came towards the end of May. After lots of rain and even snow the weekend before we pushed the car out of the garage. The generator and distributor were already removed, and the antifreeze leaked all winter. So, the engine was pretty grungy and I decided I was going to clean up the engine before install the rebuilt generator and distributor. The water pump and hoses were going to be replaced again. So, it began. Scrubbed the engine and exhaust manifold with acid to remove the rust. I painted the engine with Eastwood's ceramic engine paint and used their encapsulator paint on all the brackets. Then painted them with Rustoleum black tractor paint. The radiator was taken up to Green Bay to one of the few radiator shop's still around and check out ok. When it got this to this point. Started putting everything on again began.
  7. @LazyK there actual a lot of hobby stock car racers around. Four dirt tracks and a drag strip about an hour or less away. You see the muscle cars their, also. I don't know of any one using it for boats, I know the marina has their own pump by the docks and they use a different octane gas than typical car use.
  8. It maybe had to believe, but we have a gas station in town that sells 110 octane leaded on the pump. If you were curious $8.74/gal right now.
  9. Don't get down on the choice you made on the carburetor. If you did your homework and feel its the right choice, you will make it work. That's all there is too it. Alot of people keep saying the Carter were the only carburetor used. It wasn't. I believed it so much I almost blindly bought a Carter rebuild kit and everything Carter related. Glad I slowed down and looked things over. I have a '47 Plymouth with a Stromberg BVX-3 and most books and resources say Carters were the only one for '47 Plymouth. So, I thought someone gerry rigged fix on my car, but a couple pieces of info actually list a Stromberg for '47 only. Numbers match for '47 even. So, found out I got an original odd ball. Just some friendly words of encougement. In trying to figure out what the heck was up with my carb, found a lot of Dodges used Strombergs as well as Carters linkages are interchangeable.?
  10. @Boogeryou gave yourself the green check for solving the problem. So, what did you decide?!
  11. To add to what to @Pete just added. If you get an AC Delco brand or AC Delco based generic/store brand they are different size then the more common ones Pete just gave dimensions for. I just purchashed a group 2 - AC Delco based store brand battery it is longer and taller than the typical group 1's. Need to get new battery cables, too tight to hook up. This is from the AC Delco Spec. Sheet: (Height from Top of Case - add .75" or 18mm for Top of Post)
  12. This turn signal switch is suppose to have it built in, that's what it said in the ad. ?
  13. @Plymouthy Adamsthanks for the sage advice, and along with @LazyK explaining to me what is happening with the turn signal switch and the brake lights. I was thinking about it the wrong way. I was thinking the turn signal was "feeding" not "blocking" electricity. It actually makes some sense now! I will let you all know how it turns out.
  14. Thank you LazyK! Yes are correct. It does show the "factory optional turn signals". That doesn't help things. The biggest thing messing with my mind now is all three taillights are brake lights, which is great. I am just not that good at this stuff to wrap my mind at how to get 3 circuits into 2 contacts, without looking for a tripple contact plug and tripple element bulb. Which I don't think they make or do they??
  15. Thank you Ed! To the best of my knowledge the car never had turn signals. I think I am going to have to, put new dual contact sockets in the front since that one wire has been cut. Then I will have one wire for the yellow connection from head light switch and then I can hook up the #4 (yellow) and #2 (green) from the turn signal to the other wire. Run the extended wires along the front wiring harness up the near the juction block for the headlights, then to each of the parking lights. I believe like, @Ed McDermott is saying. If my thinking is right? The rears have two wires to them already. Do I use the brake light wire or the headlight switch controled wire to get turn signals to work in the rear since I only have 2 wires? I guess I am still stumped on how to do the tailights? I will have to see how to run wires along the frame.
  16. I am trying to wire my turn signals on my '47 Plymouth it is still 6 volt / postive ground. I am NOT an electrical genius, but I have a shop manual, laminated wiring diagram, and the instruction sheet. One of the previous owners split the wire for brake lights to all 3 taillights and have dual element bulbs in the rear fender sockets. These will be dumb questions, but bare with me. My big question is do I have to extend the wires from the turn signal switch to the light sockets for wires #1, 2, 3, & 4, or is there a place to tie into under the dash or in the car interior? How does the wiring harness typicall run through the car interior to the trunk? This is what I know. I get that #5(Red) is going to the brake switch and needs to be extended. #6(Black) & #7(Blue) go to the flasher and the fuse link is coming from the ammeter. In front all I saw was 1 yellow wire and one cut off on each socket and in back was 2 red to the Left rear fender sockets and 1 red and 1 black to the right rear fender socket. Also, have a #51 - 6V bulb to replace the 12 volt bulb in the switch. Any help is most appreciated!
  17. @Worden18 I have been looking at Wesco Preformance for lap belts. They have nice installation sheet that explains the measurements needed and placement of anchor points. They recommend 74" belts for all pre-1970 applications. The installation sheet link: https://www.wescoperformance.com/lap-belts-install.html#top The belt info link:https://www.wescoperformance.com/ll60.html
  18. The Carburetor Shop web site run by the Carb King is very difficult to navigate, they did have listing for a carb. rebuild kit #1662 Here is the link: https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/index.htm The listing is found under Passenger Kits, then under Desoto.
  19. @DJKto get back to your original question. I have recently purchased a Brockman Mellowtone 22" long steelpack and hopefully will be installing it this weekend if it ever stops raining here. The longer the steelpack/glasspack the brassier the sound, was what has been mentioned on sites such as the HAMB and help with the annoying high pitch sounds. I looked at Smitty, Porters, and Brockman. Brockman had the most length choices. Also, there are video on Youtube showing how the different mufflers sound on mopar flatheads. Just search "mopar flathead glasspacks" and down the rabbit hole you go. Oh by the way, I am also running a single carb./single exhaust on my stock 218. The header pipe is 2" and the tailpipe is 1.75", also stock. Living in Wisconsin were the H-D motorcycles originate. Having motorcyle friends they have explained to me over the years, in Wisconsin, it is not about the decibles here as much as it is about having that baffle in the muffler. There are tricks and special mufflers that get the loudness and still have the baffles in them. Cops will pull over motorcycles here if too loud and the stick their night sticks up the tailpipes to check for that baffle. If it's there, that's it, their free to go. Some electric cars such as the Nissan Leaf actual have sound devices that will make noise, so blind people can hear them coming so they have a chance at not being hit. The Nissan Leaf made sound the Jetsons Flying car, I found very funny the first time I heard it. Others I heard have gas engine sounds they play. Is this something that can be turn on/off in the settings in the menus, I don't know. My 2¢ on it all.
  20. Yes, they look very good to me, but I don't own a Pilothouse. I just had to do the same thing on my 218 in my coupe. I use the Mopar Oil Filter Adapter Package Instruction as a reference, found in the Download section near the of the Forum Menus. Othewise here is the link: https://p15-d24.com/files/file/58-mopar-oil-filter-adapter-package-installation-instructions/
  21. @Merle Coggins and his truck are TV stars. They were in the background, while the news reporter was doing an interview for the local news. Glad it was for a good cause.
  22. The Sneeky Pete Tool by Lisle. Is this what you are think of? This is off Summits web page. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-27000
  23. I believe my engine is original to my '47 Plymouth it has a P15 stamped in the serial number and a 9/17/47 cast into the block. My engine has the ground to the special stud that holds that holds the generator bracket to the engine, like @chrysler1941 has info for. This is the best picture I have right now.
  24. Ford diesels have a separate belt driven vacuum pump. They are driven with an idler pulley.
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