265 identification

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

I have a 25” motor from a Massey super 92 combine and the numbers don’t match to what I have read. The block is stamped top left corner IND 265 space 20459C, same as Chrysler tag located under manifold. The casting number above starter is 1402529 and a backward C. The head has 08202 cast on the top. I am trying to determine what I have to start with. My understanding is that the motor has never been apart and the combine was bought new about 1960. Thank you, Kevin 

[wallytoo]

well, what is it that doesn't match "the numbers that you have read"?

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Does this match any casting numbers for a 265? There is another post that has casting numbers and nothing matches from what I can tell. Is this a good head to rebuild regarding flow or would a 1947 237 head be any better? Would this be a sodium filled valve motor? I don’t see anything different about the oil filter so guessing it’s not a full flow system. Should this crank need any modifications for turning up to 4500 rpms? Just trying to decide what direction to go on a rebuild mainly, 237 and this crank/rods or 265 stamped block, maybe head? Both engines run, 237 is down on compression, haven’t checked the 265 stamped motor yet. And wanted verify all parts would interchange like the distributor, cam, oil pump.

[wallytoo]

there is no difference between the 237 head and the 251 head, and i believe the 265 is the same.  same for the oil pump, distributor, and cam.  i don’t know for sure on the valves; it’s possible all 265s had sodium-filled exhaust valves.

 

4500 rpm is a lot to ask out of these long-stroke flatheads.

Edited October 21, 2020 by wallytoo

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Do you know what the safe zone that would be recommend?  I thought they were HP rated at 3600 RPM’s? It seems any information is very limited on these. I spoke to a recommend guy on here through e-mail that is located in CA about cam regrinds. He is currently limited do to the fires. I didn’t think it appropriate to ask a lot questions as he has many issues that are more relevant. So— just need to get a plan that’s going to work and makes sense for my old truck. My goal is just a little more hp than the factory 136, don’t lose any torque and a little more RPMs. I am not after a cheap build as I could have went another direction, just something that is reasonable. Thank you for any thoughts, Kevin 

[greg g]

They tend to make expensive noises when operated near or at 4k rpm unless you address lower end lubrication remember the stroke on these is pretty close to 5 inches.  Can you build one to do it, sure but it doesn't make a lot of sense for a street engine.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Pull the 7/16" hex plug above cyl. #6.

Use a 12" stiff wire to check stroke length.  Should be 4-3/4".

Asking high rev's out of any flathead is asking for trouble.

If you want it to last keep it under 3600.

I've had my 265 in my pu for over 40 years and still going strong.

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Well, that’s not what I was hoping for as with that being said, no real advantage of a bigger cam then I guess. Are there pistons available somewhere to raise compression without cutting a bunch from the head? 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have a sodium valve 251 in a 1948 2-1/2 tonner 5&2  I ran for over 10 years hauling anything and everything in Seattle.

Freeways too @ 55..

The engine handled it fine.

Truck is wore out..not the engine.

With excellent maintenance and not over revving these old flat heads they last a long time.

That was back in the time when you could buy high quality engine parts though.

Edited October 22, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

So is the opinion just to rebuild the 265 stock then or maybe not touch it at all pending the compression test? I want to use the truck some, and be reliable. The truck has 7.5 x 20’s and  5.625 rear ratio. 55mph would be good. Checking the compression tomorrow. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I rebuilt both my truck 25" engines.

I used forged pistons, sodium valves and all new parts, valves, guides, timing chain, gears etc.

Driving one of these heavy trucks you need a really good engine to haul the weight.

I'd want a new engine myself.

Build it the way you want it.

Just make make sure it's done right that's important.

As for your single speed rear end and tire size being ok....I've never driven any Dodge trucks with out a 2 speed so I cannot say.

You will be fine with the truck...take your time do what you want and listen to others here...see what they say too.?

 

 

[Frank Elder]

1 hour ago, 47 dodge 1.5 ton said:

So is the opinion just to rebuild the 265 stock then or maybe not touch it at all pending the compression test? I want to use the truck some, and be reliable. The truck has 7.5 x 20’s and  5.625 rear ratio. 55mph would be good. Checking the compression tomorrow. 

Are you going to actually work with this truck or putt around town in parades and running errands? If it is the latter the first thing 

I would do is to change the rear gear to something more manageable like 3.90s........

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

15 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I have a sodium valve 251 in a 1948 2-1/2 tonner 5&2  I ran for over 10 years hauling anything and everything in Seattle.

Freeways too @ 55..

The engine handled it fine.

Truck is wore out..not the engine.

With excellent maintenance and not over revving these old flat heads they last a long time.

That was back in the time when you could buy high quality engine parts though.

I am going to use the truck moving round bales, apple crates, and maybe pull some equipment back and forth between farms. The heaviest pc is a backhoe. And yes, this is still my toy.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Just be sure to have "tons of fun" with it!

I certainly have with all my trucks.?

[wallytoo]

i'd leave the gearing alone, and just do what needs to be done to the engine to bring it to specification (for stock).  my 1.5-ton b-1-fa easily hauls 4 tons in the bed, and with the same high-range gearing i can do 50 comfortably.  i don't know that i'd be able to maintain 55 mph on hills with a load on, or especially towing, but i wouldn't be afraid to put the load on and go slower.  

 

i do have a 2-speed rear, which is a real advantage, as it allows for 8 different forward speeds, rather than 4 speeds.  mine also has the booster brake system, with the remote midland vacuum cylinder.  the brakes are excellent.  if you are going to be towing a backhoe, you'll want to make sure your brakes are excellent, too.  still operating with the 4 standard drums, no disc brake conversion (and the single-chamber MC).

 

i've hauled a lot of stuff in my truck since 2007 when i purchased it, including 16' 8x8 bridge panels (3 at once), ice blocks (up to 4 tons), cordwood (1.5 cords), manure (2 tons), and hay (90 bales), maple sap (300 gallons), etc.

 

use it and enjoy it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

They are some really cool pictures. You must be up North to still be cutting ice, I used to work at an ice house here in PA. Checked compression on the 265 today, 1 cylinder was down to 95psi, others were 120-125 with starter. Not bad for sitting a while and the oring broke on the last hole which may have something to do with the 95 reading. 

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

This is a picture I took of the truck after it’s first run.

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

This is the future 265 motor before rebuilding, just mocked up the manifolds.

[wallytoo]

you might need to swap the oil pan; in the pilot house series, the pan with the sump to the rear doesn’t work without modification - hits the axle.  maybe it works on the earlier trucks like yours, though?

Edited October 25, 2020 by wallytoo

[Young Ed]

11 hours ago, wallytoo said:

you might need to swap the oil pan; in the pilot house series, the pan with the sump to the rear doesn’t work without modification - hits the axle.  maybe it works on the earlier trucks like yours, though?

As far as I know W series and earlier use rear sump. My 1/2 ton WCs use them for sure

[55 Fargo]

Most IND 265s were rear sumps. I have 2 of them.

Swapping to fro t pickup and pan is very simple if needed.

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

I just looked at the oil pan on the 237 still in the truck. Think I’m in luck here either way.

[9 foot box]

  There is a post on the car forum, about a Chrysler Industrial rebuild. Probably not pertinent to your engine, but interesting. I’m curious if yours is bypass or full flow oil filter. Could you show the other side of the engine?

[wallytoo]

20 hours ago, 55 Fargo said:

Most IND 265s were rear sumps. I have 2 of them.

Swapping to fro t pickup and pan is very simple if needed.

 

it’s easy to do if needed, but a front sump pan is required.  everything else works with either type.

Edited October 26, 2020 by wallytoo

[55 Fargo]

16 hours ago, 9 foot box said:

  There is a post on the car forum, about a Chrysler Industrial rebuild. Probably not pertinent to your engine, but interesting. I’m curious if yours is bypass or full flow oil filter. Could you show the other side of the engine?

A lot of the IND engines were bypass.

Not a deal breaker at all. 

They can be converted to full flow or in 99% of typical use on here bypass is good enough.