whippersnapper48 Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 As the title states, I tried to remove the old master cylinder today, and the car won. The only way I see removal possible is by removing the brake pedal off the main center shaft, and then pulling the master off after. I tried wood to pry it, bars, everything! Yes I removed the horseshoe off the shaft end, and got it to within a quarter inch of being off. Im missing something stupid easy; what is it? Am I taking apart the wrong part of the horse? Jon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 You did remove the floorboard, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whippersnapper48 Posted October 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 No. All from under the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 You need to pull the floorboard and then pull the MC and pedals as an assembly. After you get it out then you can pull the pedals easily. Joe Lee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, whippersnapper48 said: No. All from under the car. I can understand why you are frustrated........get the floorboard out of the car and your task will be much, much easier. ? Edited October 4, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whippersnapper48 Posted October 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 Well, that settles it then. Looks like I'll be pulling the front seat and the floor this morning. From what I understand, there is only 8 screws holding the floor to the frame? Thanks again for all the responses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 Front seat can stay unless your carpet goes under the front seat. My carpet had a seam or an overlap just in front of the front seat. In my situation the carpet was glued to the floor which was a pain. Once the floor panel was removed the master cylinder was a breeze to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted October 4, 2020 Report Share Posted October 4, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, whippersnapper48 said: Well, that settles it then. Looks like I'll be pulling the front seat and the floor this morning. From what I understand, there is only 8 screws holding the floor to the frame? Thanks again for all the responses! Yes, and some of the bolts may be frozen. Go ahead and do whatever is necessary to remove them even if you need to snap off a couple. You can deal with replacing them later......after you have brakes. The gas pedal pulls off of a couple of ball-ended studs, just give it a firm tug to break it loose. To replace it I clamp a pair of vice-grips on the accelerator rod to prevent it from going down as you snap the pedal back into place. As mentioned above, if your carpet isn't a problem just removing the bottom cushion of your seat will give you a lot more working room. The seat frame can stay in place. Just lift up on the front edge of the cushion and it should pop free. Edited October 4, 2020 by Sam Buchanan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whippersnapper48 Posted October 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 So I finally got the floor off with no issues. There's a lot of rust there, and someone did a decent patch but didn't cut out the rust; just sprayed it. A word of advice to anyone who plans to put in a brand new master: The front loop that goes over the pedal assembly shaft has to be drilled out .010" in order to except the shaft. a 3/4" drill bit works perfectly for this application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc plumber Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 Must have been the brand of cylinder that you used. I replaced one yesterday with one that I purchased from Summit, it was a perfect fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 (edited) I hardly ever pull the floorboards when replacing the master cylinder. Yeah ..you have to get the pedals angled just right,clutch linkage removed including over center linkage removed but the cylinder comes out from underneath everytime. Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge etc. Did this one last week. Edited October 11, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 (edited) 37 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I hardly ever pull the floorboards when replacing the master cylinder. Yeah ..you have to get the pedals angled just right,clutch linkage removed including over center linkage removed but the cylinder comes out from underneath everytime. Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge etc. Did this one last week. Practice makes perfect. ? For many of us, replacing the master cylinder in one of these cars is a first-time (and hopefully last-time) experience. The removeable floorboard in my P15 is a greatly appreciated design feature.....it was wonderful while I was going through some tranny yanks and reinstalls. Edited October 11, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 where the master, booster and ABS controller should be on a P15....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 14, 2020 Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 I am in the process of replacing all wheel cylinders and lastly the master cylinder. Are the above comments relative to a 1948 Dodge B1B pickup? The wheel cylinders were no problem. I'll start on the master cylinder this weekend. If I understand the comments.....this can be done from underneath the vehicle??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 14, 2020 Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 The B1B truck is much easier. Just 3 bolts and one brake line and it’ll come right out. It’s fairly easy to access on the front side of the bell housing. Might need to work from the top and bottom, depending on your arm length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 15, 2020 Report Share Posted October 15, 2020 I appreciate the comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted May 7, 2023 Report Share Posted May 7, 2023 On 10/3/2020 at 4:03 PM, soth122003 said: You need to pull the floorboard and then pull the MC and pedals as an assembly. After you get it out then you can pull the pedals easily. Joe Lee hey there, I am pulling the master cylinder out of my 48 P15 as well, I have the floor board out and I saw in your comment that you can then take out the MC and pedals as an assembly. Where are you disconnecting the clutch pedal from? its adjustment/turnbuckle rod? I see that there is a pin with a nut/cotter pin that holds the clutch pedal to the adjustment/turnbuckle rod. I also see that there is a rather large spring putting tension on the clutch pedal as well. Thank you for any additional info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted May 7, 2023 Report Share Posted May 7, 2023 I am actually not replacing the master cylinder but am rebuilding it, I saw in my manual that the MC can be rebuilt while still in the car, does anyone have any experience in doing this? and possibly some tips on how to go about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9 foot box Posted May 8, 2023 Report Share Posted May 8, 2023 I took the plug off the rear of the mc and honed it. Use a light at the front, to check your honing progress. I dip the hone in clean brake fluid as a lubricant. Clean it good before assembly. I used a Raybestos MK143 kit. Rick D. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted May 9, 2023 Report Share Posted May 9, 2023 sounds good, the plug is currently being a witch to get off Im letting it soak in PB overnight and then give it a try. I may have to hit it with some heat. Thanks for the info. Clay W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilgore47 Posted May 9, 2023 Report Share Posted May 9, 2023 Note from experience. When you work on the rear brakes. Check and clear the vent on the axel housing. If the vent is plugged -- when the housing heats up it will force the bearing grease through the seals and on to your new shoes and ruin them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted May 9, 2023 Report Share Posted May 9, 2023 thank you for the tip, I will make sure that it is clear/open Clay W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted May 24, 2023 Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 On 10/3/2020 at 6:48 PM, Sam Buchanan said: I can understand why you are frustrated........get the floorboard out of the car and your task will be much, much easier. ? good morning folks, I am currently in the process of pulling the MC to rebuild it. I have the floorboards pulled and everything is disconnected except the turnbuckle/adjustment rod from the clutch pedal but I can tell there is tension on it from a large spring that is attached down low on the clutch linkage. Does the spring have to be disconnected prior to disconnecting the turnbuckle rod? and if so how do you go about doing that? I can see that if you loosened up the turn buckle adjustment rod you lessen the tension? Thanks anyone for wisdom! Clay W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted May 24, 2023 Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 33 minutes ago, 48jumpdoors said: good morning folks, I am currently in the process of pulling the MC to rebuild it. I have the floorboards pulled and everything is disconnected except the turnbuckle/adjustment rod from the clutch pedal but I can tell there is tension on it from a large spring that is attached down low on the clutch linkage. Does the spring have to be disconnected prior to disconnecting the turnbuckle rod? and if so how do you go about doing that? I can see that if you loosened up the turn buckle adjustment rod you lessen the tension? Thanks anyone for wisdom! Clay W. The spring tension must be released. Get under the car, clamp a large Vice-grip on the lower end of the spring and pull it out of the hole where it is anchored in the frame rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48jumpdoors Posted May 24, 2023 Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 5 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said: The spring tension must be released. Get under the car, clamp a large Vice-grip on the lower end of the spring and pull it out of the hole where it is anchored in the frame rail. thank you sir for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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