Going back to positive ground

[Hghspd50]

Wow great post and thanks for the info  soumds pretty confusing never seeing or doing it before but I'm sure not too bad I have heard of that shift rite switch you mention ill have to look into that. Not having much luck finding a proper carb. So jealous of the cruise nite can't wait to be joining those. Pics would be great if you get a chance and much appreciated. Enjoy your ride and the cruise. 

Edited September 4, 2020 by Hghspd50
Added pic

[Hghspd50]

some pics of current holly instead. Looks to have kick down but maybe incorrect. 

[Hghspd50]

And one more. 

[Hghspd50]

Also found what looks like old harness while digging in the trunk. Crazy what you can find anyways can anyone tell me if part of it is what I'd need for the transmission wiring. Thanks

[greg g]

Not much left of stock wire left looks like it's pretty chopped up.

[Hghspd50]

Also found what looks to be the original ball and ball carb mayne if nothing else I can get it rebuilt. On a good note i.did get the car wired back to positive ground primed the coil and Everything seemed to work well started good seemed to run a lil better. So guessing there's no wires needing swapped. Have a safe labor day weekend. 

[9 foot box]

   The part closest to the center of the picture, is the part that is mounted originally to the air cleaner support brace. Thats the part you need for wiring the transmission. The part below that is for electric choke. I can’t say what the other parts are for.

[Doug&Deb]

How lucky to find the original parts you need. I’d definitely look into rebuilding the carb. There is a casting number on the side of the carb. Use that to order a kit. Try to find a kit that is ethanol resistant. When you’re done you’ll have a big comfortable car to drive. Post a picture of the car. We love pictures here.

[Los_Control]

 

[greg g]

The Carter carb is a pretty easy rebuild. Note, pay attention to the little check valves in the accelerater pump section. They are different size and need to be noted as to which one goes were. They also like to dissapear when released a small magnet like a screw starter and a magnetic parts holder Trey can be your friend during the process.

 

Also the gasket between the carb and the manifold is sorted to provide a manifold vacuum path for the step up jet. Some have 4 slots but some only have one and need to be mounted to align with the port in the carb base casting.  And since modern fuels expand more than old formueas, many have found setting the float a couple32nds lower then spec is helpful in addressing heat soak fuel perculation, flooded hot start issues.  In the down loads section, there is a step by step guide with pictures of the Carter rebuild process.

[Hghspd50]

Thanks for the heads up ill definitely going to be rebuilding the Carter but in the mean time want to figure out a manual way to use the current 1920 holly carb it appears to have the dashpot and kickdown  just gotta figure out if I can some how connect that to the trans. Kinda how someone mentioned in earlier post. So reading and looking for a way I know holly has parts to make this work just.gotta figure out correct ones needed. Also seems to shift fine other than when I want to go into reverse. Then it wants to grind. Maybe to high rpms. Any other limgage I could check?

[kencombs]

Your 1920 is a really good carb.  If it functions OK, I'd be tempted to set us a kickdown switch somewhere on the linkage and keep it.  That bell crank on the head looks like an ideal location for a bracket.    Of course is originality is more important than function in this project, just ignore me.

 

I don't do much 'restoring', just repair, modify etc.  Too much hot rod work, not enough by the book stuff I guess in my youth.  ruined may attitude in my later years, still just a 'make it work and run it' guy.

Edited September 5, 2020 by kencombs

[Hghspd50]

Lol ya exactly what I was thinking the carb seems great pretty much bullet proof. Just gotta get the.setup and parts figured out. 

[Doug&Deb]

The car should be drivable even without wiring to the trans. It will up shift if you lift off the gas for a few seconds. It won’t downshift when stopping until you disengage the clutch. Cumbersome but doable. Idle rpms should be about 450. Any higher than that and it won’t shift.

[greg g]

Rpm at idle should be around 450 to 500. If the clutch isn't completely disengaging the input shaft can still turn in neutral enough to cause the gears to be spinning in neutral. Try selecting one of the drive ranges momentarily before shifting to reverse. If this helps, lengthen the clutch linhage rod a bit to assure the clutch releases completely .  Member Dodgeb4you is quite versed in the semi auto boxes, perhaps he can help you come up with a temporary wiring circuit thill you get the Carter sorted.

[old wayfarer]

new to this , hope I'm in the right spot ( just purchased 1952 Dodge Wayfarer should this car be neg ground?

having trouble with brake and turn signal lights , positive post on neg post on battery runs to engine block. ant help would be great

 

[old wayfarer]

that would be neg post on battery runs to engine block

[Hghspd50]

Most likely the.orig was positive ground but I'm not well versed with dodge so  sure someone more knowledgeable on subject will chime. I recently changed my 53 windsor back to pos ground pretty simple if its the same procedure. If you read further up this post there's some help on the topic also check the tech forum. And welcome aboard. 

[Hghspd50]

Doug&Deb

Here's a pic of the windsor. She is drivable but wanna get wiring and transmission done before driving her on road to much. As long as I don't need reverse she's good. Lol

[old wayfarer]

3 hours ago, old wayfarer said:

that would be neg post on battery runs to engine block

thank you.

[Doug&Deb]

Beautiful!

[joecoozie]

On ‎9‎/‎5‎/‎2020 at 5:11 PM, old wayfarer said:

new to this , hope I'm in the right spot ( just purchased 1952 Dodge Wayfarer should this car be neg ground?

having trouble with brake and turn signal lights , positive post on neg post on battery runs to engine block. ant help would be great

 

Should be positive ground but that should have no effect on the lights. Having the ground reversed will cause the amp gauge to read backwards (will go negative when revving engine instead of positive). Check to make sure you have the heavier/thicker battery cables, too. "00" gauge

[greg g]

Most lighting issues are caused by poor grounds for the light assembly.  Most body mounted electrical components can gain in performance if there is a ground cable from the firewall to the frame or engine.  If your car doesn't have one, give some thought to adding one.  Typically go from a bolt on the fire wall, to one of the bell housing bolts or similar.