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Posted

I'll I had to guess I would say 16 x 24 but I would wish for 20 x 30 and in the end I would feel it would be full in no time at all.  Nice project

Posted

Pouring it yourself? I need another building but since I'm still working full-time and sold my concrete finishing equipment years ago I'll end up paying to have the concrete work done. 

Posted

I am not pouring it myself...I am doing all the grunt work and my neighbor will be doing the placing and finishing...I will be assisting him as like myself he is retired and no longer in the business and has no crew of any kind these days.  

Posted (edited)

That sounds like a good deal. The last small floor I poured was a 24x32. Hired a guy who knew absolutely nothing about flatwork. I had been screeding by driving rebar pegs to the finished floor height and screeding to them. Had a hard time getting it through that guy's head that you have to hold the screed up. Then my power trowel quit working after I'd run the first pass over about a quarter of the floor and I ended up troweling it all by hand. I'm not nearly as young as I was then and have far too many skeletal problems to do that now.

 

Like you, I'm running out of room. I'm wanting to build a 30x50 this year. I have a cousin who's a concrete contractor and he's offered to do the concrete work at no charge but I'm not comfortable with that. Hiring someone else won't look good, either. I may end up having my kid come down from Chicago to help get the concrete on the ground, run a power screed over it, bullfloat it, hit it with a Fresno and call it done. What the heck, it's a garage floor!

Edited by MackTheFinger
Posted

I knew a guy that ran piping under the concrete and ran a boiler to heat the garage... was pretty sweet  :)

 

I also have a repair coming up that includes concrete, been thinking about it and not sure which way I will go.

The car port is old but in real good shape, new roof along with the house. But they used steel pipe for the post. One post is now rotted at ground level and needs replaced.

I could just replace it the same way they built it .... I am thinking a temp wall, remove the post and pour a footing and stick build a wall .

Nearest concrete company is 30 miles away and such a short load, will probably end up having a pallet of concrete delivered and use a mixer and pour it by hand.  :(

 

 

0526200740.jpg

Posted
5 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

little update....plastic and wire in place....father's day gift arrived a bit early.....

is your new to you lift going here? I remember last fall you were speaking of it and preparing a spot for it ... I assumed this was it.

Posted

Footings for the lift?  Floor drain?  
Just a few thoughts I had, it’s the builder and me. 

Posted

I will not be doing general mechanical maintenance out there....this is to get majority of body work, welding and such out of my stick built garage/shop attached to the house...every time I crank up the welder, do any grinding/cutting inside the shop I get a bit concerned and I need to remove some of those fears...so concrete and metal will help with those issues....as for drain...I only have one bay that anything near a drain and this is for the wet floor when spray painting.....I have one grease pit now...that is one too many.  

Posted

I have my own mixer, but there is no way I'd try to pour something as big as that with it.  My finishing tools consists of a 2x4 and some trowels, so no big pours for me.  While I can probably rent powered finishing tools, I have zero experience using them.

Posted

Great to see the progress PA. Interesting  also to see how simple the prep to pour is compared to up north by me. We have to excavate more dirt out and add stone for a base. Moisture barrier optional but wire and rebar required. I added the piping to heat the slab for our cold winters and insulated around the perimeter of the pour for that reason. Likely not needed in your area. I also stubbed for water and sewer at the time.

I had some friends come by and help with the pour and we finished it pretty slick with a machine. One thing I will say on the final surface finish is a slick finish sweeps up nice, a little dust or water on the floor though and it gets slippery quick.

Posted (edited)

yes...location is a big factor in prep for about any building scenario....the hardest part of this build is behind me...the prep of the pad.  I ordered my carport for this pad yesterday and have a 2 1/2 to 4 week estimate on delivery and setup....hope it does not extend much further out than that.  I am just wanting the sparks, flame and dirt/dust out of my main shop...I have a lift and such in the main shop that is ideal for mechanical work.  Not what most folks here would want but is what I want...I have tons of indoor storage/space but I do not like working in doors of the barn.  It was built just for storing my cars...I do have two bays I have done some ongoing work and welding was acceptable out there..but body work, concrete pad outside is I think going to suit me best...light brush finish is planned as this will be prone to getting damp/wet.  little dirt....hose it off and let the big dog eat...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
  • Like 1
Posted

Before I switched completely to brick and block work we put in quite a few basements and did loads of assorted flatwork. I think everyone should have to drag Simplex forms around in the mud. Builds character. My Morgan scaffolds weren't easy, either. I broke my left tibia below the knee hefting one of the bases over a retaining wall. Didn't hit it or anything, it broke from stress and twisting. Cracked loud enough one of the guys helping me lift it heard it pop but couldn't believe my leg had broken until I shucked my jeans. Like one of my long-term laborers always said, it was just part of the rough-and-tumble, never-say-die life of a nomad bricklayer.  ? 

 

 

Posted
On 5/26/2020 at 8:15 AM, Los_Control said:

I knew a guy that ran piping under the concrete and ran a boiler to heat the garage... was pretty sweet  :)

 

I also have a repair coming up that includes concrete, been thinking about it and not sure which way I will go.

The car port is old but in real good shape, new roof along with the house. But they used steel pipe for the post. One post is now rotted at ground level and needs replaced.

I could just replace it the same way they built it .... I am thinking a temp wall, remove the post and pour a footing and stick build a wall .

Nearest concrete company is 30 miles away and such a short load, will probably end up having a pallet of concrete delivered and use a mixer and pour it by hand.  :(

 

 

 

I had a similar deal years ago.  Cut post off, after temp brace in place, one at a time.  dug a big post hole and welded a plate to the bottom of the old post.  Then formed at the top of the hole up to the plate, filled with concrete.  Insert anchors to tie the plate/pole to the concrete.

 

It'll give you a chance to use that welder!  And, if desired you can weld some light gauge purlins to the posts to attach siding.

Just a thought.

Posted
1 hour ago, kencombs said:

I had a similar deal years ago.  Cut post off, after temp brace in place, one at a time.  dug a big post hole and welded a plate to the bottom of the old post.  Then formed at the top of the hole up to the plate, filled with concrete.  Insert anchors to tie the plate/pole to the concrete.

That would be the easy and simple way to go. Just fix what ya got.

When I bought this house, my original plan was to do exactly what PA is doing now. Pour a slab on the backside of the garage and a carport over it, a man door through the wall. Tools in the shop and easy access to the work area. Main problem is the alley is so narrow, with my 12" gate I can get my truck in the back yard, I could not get a car trailer into it.

Is on the west side and hotter then Hades in the summer time ... several reasons why I do not want to do this now. After living here.

 

Same time I all ready have the carport in front, easy access, shady in the afternoon is all ready a dedicated work area ... When I said "pour a footing" what I really meant was pour a foundation.

Attach it to existing garage foundation, stick build a wall on top and add a couple windows, move the roll up garage door forward and re-use it, add a man door in the corner exits near the front door of house. Existing garage is 10'x22' carport is 12'x24' The only downside I see, is a 45' garage on the side of my little house. For a car guy that might not look to bad.

10'x22' I am really out of room and need to stretch out.

 

0529201103.jpg

Posted
On 5/26/2020 at 5:37 PM, Todd B said:

Footings for the lift?  Floor drain?  
Just a few thoughts I had, it’s the builder and me. 

 

 

the pad meets the specification as set forth by Bend-Pak for this size and grade lift...as does it meet the specs for the covering I will place on the pad...actually, it is a bit above and beyond their recommendations but no I will not have a drain nor was there a need for pilings for the lift...

 

done deal, the concrete is now setting with a light brushing finish and though we got a bit of rain it was light and right when we finished the placing so did no hurt us.....I had covers standing by if needed....am I happy...you betcha...!

Posted
2 hours ago, Los_Control said:

That would be the easy and simple way to go. Just fix what ya got.

When I bought this house, my original plan was to do exactly what PA is doing now. Pour a slab on the backside of the garage and a carport over it, a man door through the wall. Tools in the shop and easy access to the work area. Main problem is the alley is so narrow, with my 12" gate I can get my truck in the back yard, I could not get a car trailer into it.

Is on the west side and hotter then Hades in the summer time ... several reasons why I do not want to do this now. After living here.

 

Same time I all ready have the carport in front, easy access, shady in the afternoon is all ready a dedicated work area ... When I said "pour a footing" what I really meant was pour a foundation.

Attach it to existing garage foundation, stick build a wall on top and add a couple windows, move the roll up garage door forward and re-use it, add a man door in the corner exits near the front door of house. Existing garage is 10'x22' carport is 12'x24' The only downside I see, is a 45' garage on the side of my little house. For a car guy that might not look to bad.

10'x22' I am really out of room and need to stretch out.

 

 

 

You can never have too much garage/storage/shop space no matter what your wife/girlfriend/significant other says.. One of my sadly now departed friend's ran a machine shop for many years. He also lived in it. The building was about 40'x 60'. Had one bedroom and a bathroom. No kitchen, just a refrigerator and microwave in the shop. It was a couple of miles to a little nearby town and he went to the local cafe every day for breakfast and lunch. I never rushed him to get anything done and he got to where he wouldn't charge me. I'd leave some cash in his desk when he wasn't looking. He developed some sort of brain tumor when he was in his early 60's and decided not to go through any treatment. He passed away 4 years ago at the age of 70. I have some good memories of that hillbilly.

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