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Inside upper control arm shaft will not accept grease.


48ply1stcar
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Two days ago I pulled the off the front tires to check the bolts on my recently installed disc brakes.  Summer of 2017 I rebuilt the suspension, although I did not change the shocks, because they only had maybe a thousands miles on them.  Replaced the shocks when I installed the disc brakes.  I still have a rough ride in the front end.  Hard hitting on pot holes.  Originally, I thought it was because everything was new and tight; new bushings, springs, king pins.

THIS IS MY QUESTION: I geased the front suspension when I had the tires off.  The inside upper control arm shaft (both sides) would not accept any grease.  As I type this I'm thinking that as I greased the other fittings that I seemed to be wiping off mostly new clean grease.  I'm going to try to clean out the old grease in the upper inside shafts.  Any suggestions?

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A   l o n g time ago when I was greasing cars a lot, I found that many would not take grease when the suspension was extended on the rack. Those seemed to work best when the tires were on the ground and a helper 'bounced' it by jumping on the bumper.  Worth a try. 

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Just a thought. If you replaced the control arm shafts and bushings and didn't get the spacing correct. The bushings could be too tight on the shafts which would cause a binding which could account for rough ride because you aren't getting full travel. Also if the bushings are bottomed out on the shafts it could prevent the grease from going in. Did you use the proper install tools for the bushings? Once again just a thought. 

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56 minutes ago, YukonJack said:

Just a thought. If you replaced the control arm shafts and bushings and didn't get the spacing correct. The bushings could be too tight on the shafts which would cause a binding which could account for rough ride because you aren't getting full travel. Also if the bushings are bottomed out on the shafts it could prevent the grease from going in. Did you use the proper install tools for the bushings? Once again just a thought. 

I borrowed the miller tool, but that doesn't mean I did it correctly.  The gease has turned into a gray paste on the upper shaft. 

Nice day, washing the car.  Not a good day to work on cars I just backed my Plymouth into my Grand Prix in the driveway. Backdoor crease on the Pontiac, paint damage on the Plymouth.

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47 minutes ago, 48ply1stcar said:

I borrowed the miller tool, but that doesn't mean I did it correctly.  The gease has turned into a gray paste on the upper shaft. 

Nice day, washing the car.  Not a good day to work on cars I just backed my Plymouth into my Grand Prix in the driveway. Backdoor crease on the Pontiac, paint damage on the Plymouth.

Concerning the gray paste, that sounds like abrasion on metal. Too tight as suggested prior maybe. As far as the fender bender that's just bad no matter which way you look at it, but hey it's only possessions and they can be repaired plus no one was hurt so that's a positive.

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Well sports fans it sounds like I should disassemble clean and reassemble and see if that makes a difference. As I remember bushings has to cut it's way intoarm assembly.  Well maybe it won't suck this time.  I wonder if I can take off the bushings while the bar is still mounted, after I remove the spring.

Capture.JPG

Edited by 48ply1stcar
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Hi you all

on the subjet of grease fittings,,   it seems like the grease nipples does not fit properly on the coupler of the grease gun??? It's loose.

the coupler is supose to be NPT (IN): 1/8",,  question is??   is it possible that the size (1/8) is closer to metric size than u.s. size,

Have you see a poor quality and loose fitting with the nipples on those coupler,, was is the best to get???

or should I replaced all the nipples on the car???

thank you 

grease gun.jpg

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Buy good quality zerk fittings and couplers like Alemite , Lincoln or Lumax.

They work well and don't leak.

 

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19 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Buy good quality zerk fittings and couplers like Alemite , Lincoln or Lumax.

They work well and don't leak.

 

Excellent Dodgeb4ya,,  I should try to find those brands,, made in U.S.A.  as possible for quality.. Thank you

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get  yourself a grease fitting cleaner...it is a impact device that will use grease to push the ball and spring off the seat as these tend to dry over time especially if sitting long long time in ungreased condition.....or as stated...simply install new unit....these are cheap enough....

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1 hour ago, kencombs said:

All the grease gun couplers I have, (6 or so) are adjustable.  Turning the end piece varies the size of the grip opening. 

does yours have that feature?

OMG ,,  I did not know that,, I learn something new ,, even at 63yrs old..lol..  I will check on that also.

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On 4/22/2020 at 1:50 PM, YukonJack said:

Just a thought. If you replaced the control arm shafts and bushings and didn't get the spacing correct. The bushings could be too tight on the shafts which would cause a binding which could account for rough ride because you aren't getting full travel. Also if the bushings are bottomed out on the shafts it could prevent the grease from going in. Did you use the proper install tools for the bushings? Once again just a thought. 

I backed out the bushings, replaced the zerk, heated the bushing and was able to get gease to go through. I going for a test ride today.  If that fixes my promblem then the bushing won't be tight against the control arm.  I tighten the bushings and went for a ride today 4-27-2020.  The ride was not a hard over bumps.  Still going to do a shock relocation, now thinking that the Moog CC850s may and still a little strong and that a schock relocation might help.

Edited by 48ply1stcar
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