Scarebird installation

[48ply1stcar]

It's been a early Spring in Minnesota this year and I've almost have a Summers worth of things done.  Finally had a 2000 Cherokee 8.25 355 rear end installed.  Worked out my Carb issue simply by finding a larger main jet in my box of carb parts.  And I bought a Scarebird set-up.

When I picked up the car after the rear end was installed the guy said that he hadn't top off the brake MC because he didn't want to pull up the carpet.  No problem I top it off.  After fixing the the carb I drove the car broke the speed limit on a highway 70 mph (yay).  Now to start the brake conversion.  Since I rebuilt the fron suspension the Summer 2017 it is very clean and the driver's side wheel came off easy,  I disconnected the brake line with a small coffee can to catch the fluid, nothing no brake fluid came out.

Installed the bracket.  The hub is well made, although my opinion is based limited on these things. The bearing races are part of the hub, so I just grease up the breaings, istalled the seal and put them on and then installed the caliper.  Nothing was difficult or surprising about the kit, although I still haven't gotten the wheel of the passenger side drum yet (still soaking.)  I didn't take pictures of that, but all of the pictures and comments on medium_jon post had a lot of information on that part.   

Now I'm ready for the brake lines. I'm going to move the hose bracket to the rear of shock and then find a hose with a quick 90 degree turn at the banjo end.

Since you can no longer have someone at a parts store know a what brake hose is 15 inches long with a right angle, I'll have to search the internet.  

 

[48ply1stcar]

I'm moving the brake hose braket to the rear of the shock so I need a 14" or 15" hose with a 90 degree angle at the banjo end.

[Plymouthy Adams]

not trying to be funny or anything of the sort, but would not this be best answered from Scarebird….it is their kit you are using and this would in my opinion be including in the list of things to change, upgrade, relocate etc. during the course of the install.  

[48ply1stcar]

Plymouthy, (I hope you don't mind me using you first name) I bought the kit 2nd hand without instructions, but I guess I could try.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

that explains a bit more...you may need to know who bought it for a reply from them as they may need to confirm the legitimacy of your inquiry....but then that is just a guess on my part....many keep their support parts list as proprietary 

Edited April 1, 2020 by Plymouthy Adams

[Adam H P15 D30]

Are you running stock 15" wheels?  If so, check clearance with the Scarebird kit installed.

[48ply1stcar]

27 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Are you running stock 15" wheels?  If so, check clearance with the Scarebird kit installed.

Okay I'll do it today.

[48ply1stcar]

I got an answer to my email right away.  Gave me a recomendation for the right lenght (79-81 Firebird) but I want a bent banjo to relieve pressure on the hose I post pictures later.

[Adam H P15 D30]

I'm pretty sure that's what I used but I didn't move my hard line mounting point.  Wish I had a better picture...

 

[48ply1stcar]

On 4/1/2020 at 10:28 AM, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Are you running stock 15" wheels?  If so, check clearance with the Scarebird kit installed.

Finished the drivers side today.

Decided against moving the hose bracket and used a 17 inch brake hose.  Front brake hose from a 1985 Oldsmobile Toronado or 1985 Cadillac Seville,  I had remove the bracket and ran the hose between the king pin and the shock. I didn't have to enlarge the hole in the hose bracket, althought their was a little nub on the side of the hose end that I ground off.  I used the clip that came with the hose on top of bracket and a wire tie under the bracket to hold it tight against the bracket.

No problem with the stock wheel rubbing on the caliper, I wonder if that is an issue with certain brands of caliper.

 

Edited April 3, 2020 by 48ply1stcar
removed video

[YukonJack]

Believe I used an early 80's Riviera hose on my PlyDo kit about 15 years ago. Probably the same hose.

[48ply1stcar]

No problem with the stock wheel rubbing on the caliper, I wonder if that is an issue with certain brands of caliper.

 

Edited April 3, 2020 by 48ply1stcar

[Ulu]

I don't know why that looks wrong to me, but the hose is on top and the bleeder is on the bottom?

That's the opposite of Paul's Rusty Hope setup.

I think you have the left and right calipers mixed up.

 

Or is this required for stock wheel clearance?

 

I was going to buy the Rusty hope kit, and I was just wondering if this one has a weight advantage.

I thought the Rusty hope caliper bracket was thick and heavy and needed some lightening holes drilled in it.

[Jerry Roberts]

6 minutes ago, Ulu said:

I don't know why that looks wrong to me, but the hose is on top and the bleeder is on the bottom?

That's the opposite of Paul's Rusty Hope setup.

I think you have the left and right calipers mixed up

Ulu is correct . If your bleeder is on the bottom you won't be able to get the air out . 

[kencombs]

26 minutes ago, Jerry Roberts said:

Ulu is correct . If your bleeder is on the bottom you won't be able to get the air out . 

I'll second that.  Lot's of case histories over on the Hamb of similar trials.

[48ply1stcar]

The bleeder is next to banjo fitting.  Here's the other caliper.

[Ulu]

Maybe an internal passage takes the oil down to the bottom.

Oil goes in below, air comes out above. Otherwise you must back-bleed the system, and take air out thru the master cyl.

 

This is not too bad if the master is on the firewall, up high, but one under the floor is soo low it will be difficult to bleed.

 

BTW, I drove my '47 for 60,000 miles with the stock style brakes. I used bonded shoes, and I arced them by hand to the individual drums, by putting sand paper in the drum with glue temporarily. I never had any adjustment tools. I just did some stops in my alley and made the fine adjustments. Coarse adjustment as made by setting them too tight, And backing off slightly as you try to install the drum. Just get it as tight as you can and still put the drum on. It will loosen a bit after the first stops and you can do the fine adjustment.

 

BTW, it's been 45 years since I did those brakes, but I'm pretty certain that's all I did for adjustment.

 

[48ply1stcar]

Ulu, that's why you're the Zen Master.

[Ulu]

It's a sham. ?

 

I've only owned 4 mopars and one was built in Japan.  

 

But I've done a number of brake jobs.

[Plymouthy Adams]

16 minutes ago, Ulu said:

It's a sham. ?

 

I've only owned 4 mopars and one was built in Japan.  

 

But I've done a number of brake jobs.

want to up your qualification......spend a night at a Holiday Inn

[Ulu]

No, it's just a hobby, so I'm already overqualified.

 

And, I have stayed at a very nice Holiday Inn in Sacramento.

 

But evidently there's a rude joke here somewhere....

[Ulu]

Actually, looking at that photo there's no internal passage. It just has to be positioned at an angle where the air goes up.

[Plymouthy Adams]

no rude joke...just a joke in general....not sure if you remember the Holiday Inn advertisement...should be able to view them on You Tube....

[Ulu]

I don't recall it. Might have been during the years we didn't get US TV.

 

[Sniper]

It's a commercial for Holiday Inn Express, where it is implied that by staying there you become some sort if expert on whatever subject is at hand.  It's kinda of a running gag these days to say "I don't know anything about that, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express, so..."

 

For the record, I did stay at a Holiday In Express Wednesday night, so I know what I am talking about, lol.