Suspension

[allbizz49]

Sounds like you're on a tight budget. There are ways to do this without breaking the bank. You might be money ahead getting the aerostar springs and relocating the shocks. You may still need to cut the coils down, trial and error. Also, like I said earlier, relocation the spring plate to the bottom of the control arm is fairly easy. On a side note, I bought a new Thickstun from the guy on ebay. The dude selling them is damn cool and his parts are like artwork. 

[Sniper]

Not on a tight budget so much as adverse to overpaying for things.

 

Right now I don't need any of the stuff I mentioned to just drive.  But I am a hot rodder by nature so I want to do some things.  From that perspective the Cambridge has three areas that need addressed.  Stopping, handling and going, in that order.  However, reality says this is probably the last batch of Edgy heads for along time, if ever.  Those Thickstun intakes sold out the last batch and I should have bought one then, but was waiting on the heads.  After all i could always get a set of Offy's.  Any idea if he's planning to do another run on those intakes?  They are indeed sweet looking and I suspect out perform the Offy's.  Stopping will be covered with the handling part as well since I'll be redoing the kingpins then so it's all coming apart.  I have the Explorer disc upgrade on this site book marked and have downloaded the templates.  I have a bonus coming, might get the parts for that swap then.  Just need to find a machine shop that can make the brackets without wanting a fortune doing so.      Or I may just make them myself as I have the tools needed.

[NickPickToo]

3 hours ago, allbizz49 said:

 On a side note, I bought a new Thickstun from the guy on ebay. The dude selling them is damn cool and his parts are like artwork. 

 

Sporting the same Thickstun.  Only regret is getting those shinny valve cover plates that will never see sunlight under the exhaust manifold.  But I know its there and yes, it looks like art.  Also need to reweld the manifold mod so it pitches to the rear a bit.  Tight fit the way we have it here.  Heads up, the throttle can be a bit catchy when carbs are faced the way you have them (and like have them here).  Much smoother turned the other way, but a pain in the neck for plumbing fuel lines. 

 

How do yo plan to plumb the fuel lines to the the carbs.  That is what fittings are you using and where will you find them?

[Andydodge]

Sniper..........my main concern re the coil overs is that upper mount........ which I'm pretty sure will want to live where the upper inner A arm pivots from , I'm a hotrodder  as well, lol......the Dodge has been a hotrod since 1973 when I first installed the 318 Poly and started playing with the front end and brakes ..........I am interested in a coil over conversion however I do think that its going to be a bit more fiddling with than you may realise.......lol..........happy to be proven wrong tho'..............lol.............btw this was the 230 I was building for the 41 Coupe I had, both now sold.......boohoo!!.........Andy Douglas 

[Plymouthy Adams]

34 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

 

 

got those carbs facing forward I see.....dress right dress and all that....from your original purchase to where it is now, that line in the sand quickly moved way ahead from the onset.....

Edited December 29, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams

[Sam Buchanan]

54 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

 

 

How do yo plan to plumb the fuel lines to the the carbs.  That is what fittings are you using and where will you find them?

 

 

Nick, you might consider -4 braided steel hoses with AN fittings for your fuel plumbing. The hoses are easy to make in the garage, look professional and there are fittings in every configuration. I've made up hoses for numerous auto and aviation applications and never had any leaks. Here is just one of many sources:

 

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-AN-Hose-End-Fittings-Blue-Red/752556/10002/-1

 

 

 

 

Edited December 29, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[NickPickToo]

16 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 

got those carbs facing forward I see.....dress right dress and all that....from your original purchase to where it is now, that line in the sand quickly moved way ahead from the onset.....

We did splurge on a few fun tricks, but we are getting reasonable cost on most of the work were not doing, and were still doing a lot so the line is a little fuzzy, but still there.  

[NickPickToo]

2 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Nick, you might consider -4 braided steel hoses with AN fittings for your fuel plumbing. The hoses are easy to make in the garage, look professional and there are fittings in every configuration. I've made up hoses for numerous auto and aviation applications and never had any leaks. Here is just one of many sources:

 

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-AN-Hose-End-Fittings-Blue-Red/752556/10002/-1

 

 

 

Thanks.  Speaking of outside help.  We live about 5 miles away from a local modification team here in Brighton MI, Diversified Creations.  They helping us a bit on this issue too.

[allbizz49]

The fittings were on the carbs when I bought them. I'm a ways away from finalizing it but I will be running the matching thickstun fuel block to feed the carbs. I have a factory mechanical pump like you as well. I have Langdons cast headers. 

[NickPickToo]

56 minutes ago, allbizz49 said:

The fittings were on the carbs when I bought them. I'm a ways away from finalizing it but I will be running the matching thickstun fuel block to feed the carbs. I have a factory mechanical pump like you as well. I have Langdons cast headers. 

Nice.  I hear someone make Tatterfield finned heads once he's cleared to do so.  Just saying. Cant afford Edgy but maybe someday

 

I'm pretty sure we are going to end up rigging some CN lines for fuel to give it a vintage, early rat rod look.  Just trying to find the right fitting to make it work right and still look right.

Edited December 30, 2019 by NickPickToo

[NickPickToo]

On 12/29/2019 at 6:36 PM, allbizz49 said:

The fittings were on the carbs when I bought them. I'm a ways away from finalizing it but I will be running the matching thickstun fuel block to feed the carbs. I have a factory mechanical pump like you as well. I have Langdons cast headers. 

AllBizz49,  this is what I worked out for pretty much the same setup as you have.  More detail over on "My First Car" thread

[allbizz49]

That's a nice setup. Simple and clean looking.

[T Hancock]

Very nice. I'm torn on how to proceed with under the hood on mine. I found this car in a guys garage. His Dad owned it since 1968, his Dad bought it from the original owner and it was in Phoenix ever since . It has 30k original actual miles. Everything and I mean everything is original to the car. Spare never out of the trunk. No cracks in the steering wheel , dash is perfect. So in your guys opinion, should I keep it as original as possible or do a mild custom look under the hood?

[Plymouthy Adams]

only you can make that call...plenty schools of thought here.....I have never cut or altered an original car in good condition.  There is no real need for that, I cannot even place a decal on a car is not from the factory.  I do see need at times to correct poor maintenance practices from the past life.   This is why I do not look to buy original cars as they should stay as this as long a humanly possible.  
Want a rod or custom, buy a car that is more at home for the task of altering which makes cutting and altering "no dilemma".  Tons of these out there at give away prices really suited for the task of upgrade verse putting in original condition.  My opinion, you did ask.

[T Hancock]

Thanks, I am not changing anything inside or out. I want it to remain as is. No messing around with permanent changes. Just wondering the best route. I've restored many cars but this is my second post war Plymouth. I really like the look of the split manifold with dual carb setup, but I was curious of if that would devalue the car.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

some like it as original and would look to the intake change as just too much a mod, some would like the stock look of exterior and interior with the warmed up engine and oh-ah under the hood....wide hobby, some devalue these actions, some place value...this roll of the dice is just that and who in the future they may land in front of.  Thing about the engine mod, it can be retained and returned to stock.  Satisfy yourself and not shoot yourself in the foot as it will be with the car if you flip it later...new owner now has your current dilemma 

[Sniper]

I don't build a car thinking about how someone else would like or want it to be.  But I only buy cars for me, not in the car selling business.  So I worry about what I like.

[T Hancock]

God point.

[NickPickToo]

7 hours ago, HMH Autosport said:

Very nice. I'm torn on how to proceed with under the hood on mine. I found this car in a guys garage. His Dad owned it since 1968, his Dad bought it from the original owner and it was in Phoenix ever since . It has 30k original actual miles. Everything and I mean everything is original to the car. Spare never out of the trunk. No cracks in the steering wheel , dash is perfect. So in your guys opinion, should I keep it as original as possible or do a mild custom look under the hood?

So, how can you make such a post without pics?

[Andydodge]

HOTROD IT..........they're only original once but can be a HOTROD many times over...........lol...................hop up the engine, drop it a couple of inches, and go hunt some Frods.......regards, andyd

[mrwrstory]

14 hours ago, Andydodge said:

HOTROD IT..........they're only original once but can be a HOTROD many times over...........lol...................hop up the engine, drop it a couple of inches, and go hunt some Frods.......regards, andyd

I love it,....with a caveat.  You'll never beat a Ford unless it's a Four Banger  

[Andydodge]

Bill.......go wash your mouth out.........lol...........if'n you can't a Ford a Dodge, Dodge a Ford.......lol..............andyd

[T120]

A very good thread that I've thoroughly enjoyed reading, from suspension modifications to engine performance,with some very good ideas, pictures and laced with a bit of humour..lol

[Old Fire Guy]

On 12/27/2019 at 12:21 PM, Sniper said:

Moog CC850 is the part number for the Aerostar springs.  If you go to this site it gives the specifications and dimensions.  https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_coil_springs.asp

 

Hi folks, I have a redundant question: is this Moog spring a direct replacement for the springs in my '49 DeSoto S-13? I just looking to 'refresh' the sagging 70 year old units. Are there any modifications I need to make for the swap? 

[James_Douglas]

On 1/12/2020 at 8:35 AM, Old Fire Guy said:

 

Hi folks, I have a redundant question: is this Moog spring a direct replacement for the springs in my '49 DeSoto S-13? I just looking to 'refresh' the sagging 70 year old units. Are there any modifications I need to make for the swap? 

 

The AMA sheet for 1949 shows the front springs as:

 

Free Length:

Right = 15-5/8 inch
Left = 15-13/16 inch
 

Length under curb weight = 11.00 Inch.

 

You would have to call Eaton or one of the other manufacturers so get the springs blueprint Spring Load and Spring Rate for that particular make and model.

 

I always find it interesting how folks toss around swapping springs without doing the research or the math. When the car is engineered, the spring load, spring rate and the like are designed in to deal with the particular cars weight and also its wheelbase. The load shifting during brake application comes into account as well.

 

One may pick up something that looks like it will work only to find it does not ride well or perform well like when going over a speed bump. Sometime folks get lucky, sometimes not.

 

James.