51 B3B build thread - after all these years

[Dave72dt]

If you're building the fuel line out of the cupro-nickel brake line, it's also available in 25' coils.  You will have to install fittings and flare the ends.

[Los_Control]

2 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

yes I confirmed on FEF, which was a stock truck there is/was a union center "below" the radiator.

Been having pc issues cant post a photo right now.  I have my complete line laying on the garage floor and is no splice, it fit the frame perfect, saving it for a pattern when I make my new line.

I measured from the tank to under the radiator, just about 6'. That seems like a standard length the auto parts stores would sell ....

 

I am not going to say it is not original to have a splice, my reasoning against it is simply cost.

I imagine the manufacturer of the lines would buy the steel line in 50' or 100' rolls, maybe larger. (possible that The big 3 chevy ford dodge hire independent shop to make lines?)

 

A 5' line  of 5/16" at my local auto parts store, is about $6   the coupling I needed for my right front brake line cost about $6, the coupling doubles the cost of manufacturer.

 

I can see, understand, the manufacturer runs to the end of the roll, then just adds a coupling to finish the line. So some cars/trucks will end up with a splice, but not all of them.

 

And thats just my opinion and worth what you paid for it.

[JBNeal]

I have 9 original trucks (2 verified with build cards) that all have a single fuel line from the fuel tank to the rubber hose that feeds the engine-mounted fuel pump, 2 of those where I replaced the fuel line and put the splice in the vicinity of the distributor area of the engine compartment...FSM verifies p# 861852 as the fuel line from tank to engine (104"), p# 1057838 as the rubber hose for all B2/B3/B4 B/C/D trucks  

[ggdad1951]

20 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Been having pc issues cant post a photo right now.  I have my complete line laying on the garage floor and is no splice, it fit the frame perfect, saving it for a pattern when I make my new line.

I measured from the tank to under the radiator, just about 6'. That seems like a standard length the auto parts stores would sell ....

 

I am not going to say it is not original to have a splice, my reasoning against it is simply cost.

I imagine the manufacturer of the lines would buy the steel line in 50' or 100' rolls, maybe larger. (possible that The big 3 chevy ford dodge hire independent shop to make lines?)

 

A 5' line  of 5/16" at my local auto parts store, is about $6   the coupling I needed for my right front brake line cost about $6, the coupling doubles the cost of manufacturer.

 

I can see, understand, the manufacturer runs to the end of the roll, then just adds a coupling to finish the line. So some cars/trucks will end up with a splice, but not all of them.

 

And thats just my opinion and worth what you paid for it.

 

True it makes the most sense, I do know FEF was in an accident while young in life, so definitely possible that they spliced the fuel line...I just rebuilt what they did.  The COE will likely also be different to look at for a compare.  

The build cards won't tell you about things as detailed as a fuel line, FEF is verified with a build card as well and has a splice. 

 

Reply edited

[bkahler]

6 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

If you're building the fuel line out of the cupro-nickel brake line, it's also available in 25' coils.  You will have to install fittings and flare the ends.

 

Back in 2001 I sent my brake lines to Classic Tube and had them bend a set in stainless to match.  As of yet I have not installed them but I do know the short tube on the diff is not correct so I'll have to recreate at least one.  The front one that goes around the front cross member seems to be correct as does the one that runs along the frame from the tee back to the rear rubber hose.  

 

I was planning on using stainless tubing from Amazon for the fuel line as well.  Connections to the carburetors will be with inverted flare fittings.  

 

Brad

 

[bkahler]

So how does one go about getting a build car for the truck?

 

[JBNeal]

Build Card information has been discussed with some changes to the FCA website causing some confusion...I've emailed the Historical Society recently but haven't received an answer yet, so I suppose it's back to snail mail for requests...

[bkahler]

11 hours ago, JBNeal said:

Build Card information has been discussed with some changes to the FCA website causing some confusion...I've emailed the Historical Society recently but haven't received an answer yet, so I suppose it's back to snail mail for requests...

 

I guess I'll try going the snail mail route and see what happens.  

 

Thanks

 

Brad

[bkahler]

Ran into a slight bump in the road last night.  While looking over the new brake master cylinder that I had purchased way back when I noticed that the rear of the MC has a large threaded hole.  At some point in time I did install the brass elbow on the bottom of the MC but for whatever reason I didn't do anything about the threaded hole.  Looking at the parts diagrams it looks like a pipe plug goes there.  I suspect the new MC didn't come with the plug probably because you're supposed to use the old one.  

 

Unfortunately In this case I don't have the old MC laying around nor do I have a plug.  Can someone tell me what size/type of plug to source?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

[Los_Control]

They are just standard pipe thread,  I think it may be 1/8" you can look at it and compare to the plug at the hardware store.

I think mine is just standard black iron pipe plug. I would suggest buying a brass plug. I rebuilt my master and just left the existing plug alone.

[bkahler]

11 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

They are just standard pipe thread,  I think it may be 1/8" you can look at it and compare to the plug at the hardware store.

I think mine is just standard black iron pipe plug. I would suggest buying a brass plug. I rebuilt my master and just left the existing plug alone.

 

Thanks, that makes sense.  The only thing that doesn't match is the opening in the end of my MC is at least a 3/8" NPT if not 1/2" NPT.  I take the MC with me to the hardware store and get a brass plug that fits.   

 

This makes me wonder if my old MC had a smaller plug compared to the new MC.  20 years ago when I was doing the work I was mostly in a hurry because I was only home for a few days at a time and then gone for months.  Then came the first of many moves.......

 

Thanks again!

 

Brad

[bkahler]

Ok next set of questions on the heat riser 

 

When I had my manifold split I made sure the heat riser valve was still in place and functional (i.e. rotate smoothly).  I bought a new spring and found documentation in the manual about which direction the spring goes.  Somewhere on this site I found a picture of the heat riser counter balance that helps but I'm confused by a couple of things in the picture.  

 

In the first picture I've highlighted in orange what looks like a piece of string or twine.  What exactly is it and why is it there?

 

In the same picture I've highlighted in green a metal tab that is between the attachment bracket and in one of the counter balances it appears to be broken and the other just seems to have a smooth edge.  What is that for and what does it do?  

 

The second picture shows the two counter balances that I have available.  Does either look right?

 

I guess the last question does someone have a link to a good description on how these things are supposed to be installed?  I've searched but have not been successful in finding anything that makes sense!

 

Thanks!

 

In the 

[Los_Control]

Here is a poor picture of what mine looks like. I imagine they can be different sizes between different mc.

I assume it is just a option for the lines to connect to so you can use the same mc on different vehicles.

I have a a brass elbow that comes out of the bottom, and a 5/16" brake line connects to it. I bought that at the auto parts store and let them pick the size.

It may be possible that the male end that treads into the mc is also 5/16"? Either way, bring it with you and get the plug from your local hardware store.

 

As a old remodel carpenter, I can pick out 1/2" and 3/4" pipe real easy as it is used in houses, get under 1/2" and I am always guessing wrong 

 

 

[ggdad1951]

1 hour ago, bkahler said:

Ok next set of questions on the heat riser 

 

When I had my manifold split I made sure the heat riser valve was still in place and functional (i.e. rotate smoothly).  I bought a new spring and found documentation in the manual about which direction the spring goes.  Somewhere on this site I found a picture of the heat riser counter balance that helps but I'm confused by a couple of things in the picture.  

 

In the first picture I've highlighted in orange what looks like a piece of string or twine.  What exactly is it and why is it there?

 

In the same picture I've highlighted in green a metal tab that is between the attachment bracket and in one of the counter balances it appears to be broken and the other just seems to have a smooth edge.  What is that for and what does it do?  

 

The second picture shows the two counter balances that I have available.  Does either look right?

 

I guess the last question does someone have a link to a good description on how these things are supposed to be installed?  I've searched but have not been successful in finding anything that makes sense!

 

Thanks!

 

In the 

 

 

the green highlighted part should be the interface between the post and valve...should be a slot in the post it slides into.  Gives the valve the place/surface to pivot/push against.  

no idea what the orange thing is, maybe smarter minds do.

[Dodgeb4ya]

The orange thing is the ghost image of the flapper valve is it not?

[bkahler]

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

Here is a poor picture of what mine looks like. I imagine they can be different sizes between different mc.

I assume it is just a option for the lines to connect to so you can use the same mc on different vehicles.

I have a a brass elbow that comes out of the bottom, and a 5/16" brake line connects to it. I bought that at the auto parts store and let them pick the size.

It may be possible that the male end that treads into the mc is also 5/16"? Either way, bring it with you and get the plug from your local hardware store.

 

As a old remodel carpenter, I can pick out 1/2" and 3/4" pipe real easy as it is used in houses, get under 1/2" and I am always guessing wrong 

 

 

 

The plug in your picture looks about right for the opening in MC.  

 

I can usually gauge wrench sizes ok unless it's metric and then all bets are off!

 

Brad

 

 

[bkahler]

1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

the green highlighted part should be the interface between the post and valve...should be a slot in the post it slides into.  Gives the valve the place/surface to pivot/push against.  

no idea what the orange thing is, maybe smarter minds do.

 

Ok, that makes perfect sense.  The little metal tab is an alignment tool so the counter balance is installed correctly with no guessing.  

 

Thanks!

 

Brad

[bkahler]

1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

The orange thing is the ghost image of the flapper valve is it not?

 

Good point, based on the pictures I do believe that is what they are trying to show.  I'm assuming in the picture the counter balance is shown with the valve in the open position which allows exhaust gases to warm the intake.  

 

Thanks!

 

Brad

[Merle Coggins]

From my memory, and the photo from Los_Control, I believe it’s 1/4” NPT

[bkahler]

11 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

From my memory, and the photo from Los_Control, I believe it’s 1/4” NPT

 

It sure seemed bigger than 1/4" NPT,  of course I had my reading glasses on which makes everything look bigger!

 

I'm heading to the hardware store this weekend to find a plug and I'll post what it ends up being.  

 

Brad

[bkahler]

Instead of going with a 6-volt system I am switching over to 12-volt.  I will be using a 12-volt generator and regulator from a 56 vehicle.  I would prefer to keep the existing 6-volt coil, at least for the time being so any suggestions on which ballast resistor to use?  

 

I will also need some sort of resistor for the heater motor and wiper motor.  Suggestions?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

[Radarsonwheels]

I used a muscle car era ballast resistor for my blower fan. They are normally installed on the firewall to cut voltage to the coil. Often they have a second circuit to give full voltage for starting. I tried an ebay resistor meant for 12v conversion years ago and it didn’t work. 

 

The ballast resistors are ceramic and turn the excess power into heat so be smart about where you mount it if you go that way. 

 

I found them the best working inexpensive option- maybe somebody else knows a better choice

[Los_Control]

Pondering the situation, I am pretty sure I would just swap to a 12 volt coil while at it.

I imagine when you swap from 6 volt to 12 volt, you will also swap from + ground to - ground.

 

I have read on the internet, so we know it must be true. 

The used 6 volt coil is use to being ran in one direction, when you swap the + ground to - and juice flows in the opposite direction, you might get some strange issues.

Intermittent missing in a certain rpm range etc...

Coils are cheap enough, buy a new one and eliminate possible future problems chasing down weird issues, save the old one for a spare to get you home or test something else.

 

I suggest you save the old 6 volt coil, build another B series truck around it 

[bkahler]

Based on this shock absorber thread and a couple of others that I read I bought four Monroe 31000 for the front and rear.  Unfortunately they don't fit.  The shock absorber studs on my truck are .690" (11/16") in diameter.  The holes in the shocks are .625".  

 

Anyone else run into this problem? 

 

It looks like I'm still within the return window with Amazon but I'd sure like to know why my truck appears to be different than others.

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

[bkahler]

22 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said:

I used a muscle car era ballast resistor for my blower fan. They are normally installed on the firewall to cut voltage to the coil. Often they have a second circuit to give full voltage for starting. I tried an ebay resistor meant for 12v conversion years ago and it didn’t work. 

 

The ballast resistors are ceramic and turn the excess power into heat so be smart about where you mount it if you go that way. 

 

I found them the best working inexpensive option- maybe somebody else knows a better choice

 

Interesting, I thought for the fan motor a different value of resistor would be required.  I think most ignition ballast resistors are something like 1.5 ohms and the only really difference is the wattage.  

 

It'll be interesting to see what other's have used.

 

Thanks!

 

Brad