Radarsonwheels Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 Hi Brad! Hey nice work man. I have a piece of trivia to share- a jeep ZJ rear axle takes the stock driveshaft U-joint like it was made for it and provides modern disc brakes with a cable parking brake. It does need billet wheel spacers though- they are a little narrow for our track width. My truck’s OG 4.10 rear was still working like new but the brakes were always a problem and I never found parts for the stock parking brake- 2 birds one stone. I did have to make a bracket for the parking cable splitter and weld on new skinny perches for the original leafs, along with relocating the axle shock brackets but it was a great swap. Fingers crossed that your engine decides to free up and there isn’t any significant rust damage on sealing surfaces. I’m enjoying your build thread- lots of great pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 Here's a discussion on brake and fuel line routing from a few years ago...that fuel line needs to hug the cross member under the engine for maximum clearance. Terrill Machine supplies fuel pump rebuild kits, he'll need the pump model off of the casting to send ya the right kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO54 Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 What color is that green? Looks really good. Thanks. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 11:00 AM, Radarsonwheels said: Hi Brad! Hey nice work man. I have a piece of trivia to share- a jeep ZJ rear axle takes the stock driveshaft U-joint like it was made for it and provides modern disc brakes with a cable parking brake. It does need billet wheel spacers though- they are a little narrow for our track width. My truck’s OG 4.10 rear was still working like new but the brakes were always a problem and I never found parts for the stock parking brake- 2 birds one stone. I did have to make a bracket for the parking cable splitter and weld on new skinny perches for the original leafs, along with relocating the axle shock brackets but it was a great swap. Fingers crossed that your engine decides to free up and there isn’t any significant rust damage on sealing surfaces. I’m enjoying your build thread- lots of great pics! Thanks for the tip on the jeep diff. My current diff is the factory optional 3.73 so I'm wanting to find out just how well it drives with that ratio. Brakes are a concern but until I get a chance to drive it I don't want to make any conversion decisions. Truth be told I'm probably getting to old to drive fast!!! Thanks! Brad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 12:54 PM, JBNeal said: Here's a discussion on brake and fuel line routing from a few years ago...that fuel line needs to hug the cross member under the engine for maximum clearance. Terrill Machine supplies fuel pump rebuild kits, he'll need the pump model off of the casting to send ya the right kit Brian, thanks for the links. Pictures are worth a thousand words. Back in 97 when I was dismantling the truck I had a brand new digital camera that I thought would be the cats meow for the restoration process. Problem was it was only 320 x 200 resolution! Not near good enough. Fortunately I did use a regular camera for some pictures, just not enough of them. Thanks, Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 2:33 PM, CO54 said: What color is that green? Looks really good. Thanks. Eric Eric, The color was listed as "Dodge Truck Green" for 1951 in the Sherwin Williams paint books. The truck was originally black but I wanted a green truck and got one Brad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO54 Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 Brad, Thanks for the info, my wife and I have decided we're going with a green and grey color scheme of some sort. She picked out a green that is used on the Michigan DOT trucks for some reason. I'll be showing her yours though. Keep plugging away. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 Ok, time for another question In the attached picture is the throttle linkage arm that mounts on the bell housing sitting in the right orientation for when not pressing on the gas pedal? I'm having to fabricate my own throttle linkage and brackets for the carburetors since I'm using the Offenhauser dual intake. Thanks, Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 Are these carter B&B carbs? just thinking the typical position for the carbs with no spring is wide open throttle. And the spring closes the throttle down to idle. That is the way a stock factory setup works. This means if the spring breaks, it goes to wide open throttle and you need to change your underwear. I assume your dual carb setup is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 additional information - throttle return spring installation 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 3 hours ago, Los_Control said: Are these carter B&B carbs? just thinking the typical position for the carbs with no spring is wide open throttle. And the spring closes the throttle down to idle. That is the way a stock factory setup works. This means if the spring breaks, it goes to wide open throttle and you need to change your underwear. I assume your dual carb setup is the same. Yes they are B&Bs. And you answered a big question that I was getting ready to ask about the fact the carb defaults to full throttle! I thought maybe I had put them together wrong Thanks! Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 2 hours ago, JBNeal said: additional information - throttle return spring installation Thanks for the link, good info. When I dismantled the truck all I had was the cotter pin and needless to say I was baffled by it for a long time until I saw the complete setup at a junkyard. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 4 hours ago, CO54 said: Brad, Thanks for the info, my wife and I have decided we're going with a green and grey color scheme of some sort. She picked out a green that is used on the Michigan DOT trucks for some reason. I'll be showing her yours though. Keep plugging away. Eric I need some paint for touch up and will try and see if Sherwin Williams can still come up with the formula. If they can I'll post the info. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 After doing some research on my front end steering mess it appears the only thing I have to swap are the two pivot arms, i.e. swap sides so they point to the rear. The backing plates themselves are the same part number. That saves me a fair amount of work. Sometime this week I'll put the front end on jack stands and start. Some good news for a change Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 These numbers are stamped on the side of the frame above the left rear wheel. They don't seem to match the vin number. Any idea what they represent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 That's a frame part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 20 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: That's a frame part number. That explains it, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 39 minutes ago, bkahler said: These numbers are stamped on the side of the frame above the left rear wheel. They don't seem to match the vin number. Any idea what they represent? How clear they are! Not all mucked with rust! I only found mine after sandblasting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 4 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said: How clear they are! Not all mucked with rust! I only found mine after sandblasting. The frame was sandblasted and then painted with a coat of Bill Hirsch's Miracle Paint and then sprayed with his Chassis Black paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 Question: Is the fuel line a one piece affair from the fuel pump to the tank or was there a splice/union in the middle somewhere? I've reviewed the link provided and that helped a lot. I've found the front half of the fuel line and it has a fitting in the section running along the side of the frame to the rear. I also think I found the rear section although it seems to have a section of hose attached on what would be the section that runs towards the front along the frame. Makes me wonder if someone spliced in a fuel filter and I've lost a piece over the years and moves that I've made. Thanks, Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 1 hour ago, bkahler said: Question: Is the fuel line a one piece affair from the fuel pump to the tank or was there a splice/union in the middle somewhere? I've reviewed the link provided and that helped a lot. I've found the front half of the fuel line and it has a fitting in the section running along the side of the frame to the rear. I also think I found the rear section although it seems to have a section of hose attached on what would be the section that runs towards the front along the frame. Makes me wonder if someone spliced in a fuel filter and I've lost a piece over the years and moves that I've made. Thanks, Brad if memory serves I had a union in the center under the rad, I can look tonight. It definitely has an odd run, but that's what they did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, bkahler said: Question: Is the fuel line a one piece affair from the fuel pump to the tank or was there a splice/union in the middle somewhere? I just pulled what I think is the original fuel line from my truck. It is one piece all the way. When I replace it, the local parts store only sell the steel lines in 5' section, and there will be a splice when I replace it. If you have a splice, maybe it has been replaced in the past? The original does end before the fuel pump and a short rubber line to finish it. I believe for vibration between engine and frame is the purpose. Edited November 4, 2019 by Los_Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 13 minutes ago, Los_Control said: I just pulled what I think is the original fuel line from my truck. It is one piece all the way. When I replace it, the local parts store only sell the steel lines in 5' section, and there will be a splice when I replace it. If you have a splice, maybe it has been replaced in the past? The original does end before the fuel pump and a short rubber line to finish it. I believe for vibration between engine and frame is the purpose. If it's one piece all the way then I'd bet it's original. I wouldn't be surprised if mine is a replacement as it has been heavily wrapped with tape in a couple of spots for what I think was to keep it from rubbing on the frame. The splice joint is just forward of the spring shackle. I should amend my statement about fuel pump to tank. Mine does have (had) the rubber hose at the fuel pump. I will likely fabricate a replacement line and while doing so will add another filter underneath by the tank. Thanks, Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 33 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said: if memory serves I had a union in the center under the rad, I can look tonight. It definitely has an odd run, but that's what they did. Which one of your many project vehicles are you referring to?!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 5, 2019 Report Share Posted November 5, 2019 17 hours ago, bkahler said: Which one of your many project vehicles are you referring to?!!! yes I confirmed on FEF, which was a stock truck there is/was a union center "below" the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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