Wood for bed floor oak or pine

[Jj1981]

I’m closing in on doing the bed floor. I am thinking of using 2x8 pine ripped down to allow 7 planks at 48.5” does anyone have pics of thier bed flooring also not planning on using strips I hope to  glue bed floor together for one solid piece 

[59bisquik]

I used pine planks and stained them with ebony stain. They look really nice, but are more for show. The wood is very soft and dents/gouges easily. A harder wood might be a better choice.

[Jj1981]

How thick did u use

[Los_Control]

Be interesting. First we know the pine is not very stable, using 2x stock and cutting them 48" will help .... I dunno, the wider 8" is likely to twist more then a narrow 2x4.

Maybe if you use biscuit joints or a 1/2 lap might help make it stable.

I think it may look strange running the wood horizontal instead of normal vertical, but what do I know, it may look ok. Might be pretty cool if you make it like a butcherblock with random lengths.

 

3/4" oak planks running vertical would be my choice, no strips you could make a T molding to separate the planks. The oak is most simple, looks great and oil finish is easy to maintain ... and stable.

 

I have been giving it some thought myself, living in the middle of nowhere, #2 pine is my only real choice here. No oak within 3 hour drive.

I have some decent plywood available, $50 a sheet, that is smooth on one side and stain-able. I am thinking to use it and rip into strips for proper width,  Paint the rough underside then undercoat or bedliner, then stain and oil the topside. I think it will be more stable then pine and still look ok .

 

[Los_Control]

do you have any of the original bed metal?

3/4" is original, but your truck and can do what you want.

[59bisquik]

3/4" thick pine boards

[stylesadamson]

If you are gonna glue them together why not use a sheet of Marine plywood.They make some with really good looking veneers.

[Jj1981]

I would love to find some quartersawn oak or maple but I’m on a no budget so I’m just trying to get something stable definitely not a show truck but my first build 

[Los_Control]

13 minutes ago, Jj1981 said:

I would love to find some quartersawn oak or maple but I’m on a no budget so I’m just trying to get something stable definitely not a show truck but my first build 

I agree, I feel that if my truck was on the road and driving, then I would want to spend more time/money on individual parts, like bed wood.

Why I am thinking for now, just plywood to get it on the road, or maybe #2 pine.

I expect my truck to be a driving project until I am no longer driving. Changing bed wood down the road is a easy project.

 

Here is a photo showing T molding, something you could make on a table saw out of wood of your choice. And I stole the photo from here.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/opinion-on-bed-wood.1113177/page-1

 

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, Jj1981 said:

I would love to find some quartersawn oak or maple but I’m on a no budget so I’m just trying to get something stable definitely not a show truck but my first build 

Not as cheap as pine of course but I bought hardwood ( I believe ash) from our local lumberyard for about $120. 

[bosworth]

I used yellow pine for my bed floor,  i was able to find relatively clear 1x6 stock, I used waterproof glue to glue the boards to correct width. I think it would be a bad idea to try to glue the bottom into one large  solid wood panel.  Solid wood will expand across it's grain no matter what kind of finish is used.  If the bottom is separated into individual strips, each board will expand and contract a small amount that can be concealed by the metal strips,  if the panel is one large piece it will expand and contract as much as 1/2 inch  in width.  If you have holes drilled through the panel the board will likely split at one or more of the series of bolts. Plywood will not expand and contract in the same way.

Bill  

[Todd B]

I completely agree with bosworth. One piece solid glued would be mistake. Southern yellow pine would be a much better choice than white pine.  However White oak would be your best choice.  

I would also avoid using construction grade lumber like a 2x8 because they are not dried properly and will really move.  

If your are set on one piece then go with exterior grade marine plywood preferably A-B or B-C quality. 

[Jj1981]

Not set on anything really I was just wondering what yalls take on it is thanks for all the info 

[Will Y]

I have old pressure treated lumber in mine.  The previous owner did it and as the metal strips were missing he just butted it up against each other.  Not the answer for a show truck, but for a driver, or in our case it has been used on and off on our evergreen nursery to haul equipment in the field between long "rests" stored awaiting being put back in street legal condition it works well.  Looks okay too for a working truck that has been outside for at least the 15 years we have owned it and before that too.   Disregard the paint on the bed shaped like parking light surrounds. 

 

[Jj1981]

That’s what I want perfect thank you

[ggdad1951]

yah one piece glued up WILL crack/split.  That is one of the reasons for the shovel strips.  I used white oak (never will rot), rough cut (stock look) and painted black.  You can see my tutorial thread in my signature line below.

[Sharps40]

I used trex like composite product in mine.  An aged silver/grey called something like beachouse cottage or some such.  You can get it in thicknesses like 5/8, 3/4, etc.  Got it at lowes.  Perfect, no stain, machines like wood, wears like iron. 

[Los_Control]

25 minutes ago, Sharps40 said:

I used trex like composite product in mine.  An aged silver/grey called something like beachouse cottage or some such.  You can get it in thicknesses like 5/8, 3/4, etc.  Got it at lowes.  Perfect, no stain, machines like wood, wears like iron. 

Interesting choice.

As a carpenter I have installed the product a few times. I agree it works just like wood with saws and routers, wears like iron and does turn to a nice silvery finish.

 

First time installing, was a second story deck that wrapped around the house. We spent all morning getting it perfectly straight, west side first, before it got hot.

That afternoon before going home, the boards looked like snakes, and the radiant heat coming off them was very uncomfortable.

Next morning they were perfectly straight, until it got afternoon sun.

As a carpenter, I really do not like the stuff. But for a pickup bed, may be ok. I will have to re-think this option myself.

[Sharps40]

No warp, been on the truck about 5 years now. 

[PT81Jan]

Depending on if it has to be original or more practical ... I decided to go the more practical way but also wanted to have a look that is at least a bit period correct.

My bed is made of a laminated wood board (phenolic resin) which originally is used for trailers. That is very stable and wear resistant. So suitable for load use.

For the look I made a grid that I easily can push in or out. Since that doesn`t see much demand, the wood choice is secondary (hard / soft / taste).

Just another solution ...

 

Edited November 21, 2018 by PT81Jan

[Dodgeb4ya]

I recently helped a friend make and install Ironwood in a GMC PU bed.

Should be very long lasting and tough as iron.