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stylesadamson

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About stylesadamson

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver
  • My Project Cars
    1952 B3 PU

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  • Location
    Denver
  • Interests
    Life

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  1. Jeff, Also be aware that any LED lights you use must be designed for AC not DC(the link I provided works for both) as DC LED's will not work on POS ground. AC lights will work for either POS or NEG ground. Styles
  2. You bet. Every light on my truck is LED bye the way. Regards, Styles
  3. https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Motorcycle-Crystal-Glass-Metal-Headlight-6V-6-Volt-26-40w-LED-Light-Bulb-Each/233240000192?hash=item364e2ff6c0:g:L7wAAOSwIS9cOhLw:sc:USPSPriority!80211!US!-1
  4. The selector rod needs adjustment. That is the rod connected to the cam that moves the rod forward when the column shift lever is pulled back.
  5. Here is what I started with. The jeep is front steer so the pitman arm points to the rear of the vehicle. The b3b being rear steer... reorienting the pitman arm 180 to face the front makes the gear rotation proper for our rear steer. This pic shows the portion of the pump bracket ground off to allow mounting using the water pump bolt. Here is the bracket installed. I used a couple of angle brackets that I had to secure the bracket to one head bolt. Here is the double pulley that replaced the serpentine pulley to run the alternator. I cut the steering column and shaft just above the gear...removed the shaft then cut the column just below the shift linkage on the column. I will probably replace the column when I install the T5 that is next on my list. My plan was to use the original shaft as I believed it to be .75" prior to removal but discovered it is actually .780 requiring turning it down or drilling out the .75 u-joint so I just replaced the steering shaft with a solid .75" from Speedway...$20 as I recall. The u-joint is 3/4 30 x 3/4 round and I welded it onto the shaft. I used the Borgeson u-joint because at 3.25" long it fits perfectly between the gear and the cut column allowing preservation of the shift linkage. The three original holes are used for the gear. The top 2 holes line up with the gear perfectly however the front one requires a 1/2" spacer between the frame mounting bracket and the gear. I made one from 1/2" bar stock. The bottom rear bolt hole on the gear is secured to the frame using 1/2" x 1" wide bar stock pic'ed below. Bolt through frame into bar stock...gear bolted to bar stock. I heated and bent the drag link end of pitman using a press to get the proper angle and ground out the proper beveled bore for the drag link. Plenty of material. New reservoir and hoses. Alternator adjustment arm (I already had this curved one but there are plenty longer curved ones out there that would work) attached to the top pivot bolt on the pump bracket. Belt sizes 50" and 26" Secured the lower column with cheap bracket. This will change after T5 install. Here is the truck. Regards, Styles
  6. I just converted to power steering using a pump, bracket, gear and pitman arm from a 93 jeep wrangler yj. Ultra simple conversion. only had to purchase new hoses, a double pulley for the pump and a u-joint for the steering shaft. Used complete yj steering setups are readily available and cheap. Two of the frame holes matched the gear exactly and very simple fabrication required to utilize the third and the pitman arm. Small amount of bracket casting must be ground away to mount using one water pump bolt. If you are interested in pics reply or email me and I will send pics and further installation instructions. Steers perfectly with no play. Regards, Styles stylesadamson@gmail.com
  7. http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/NEW-Manual-Choke-32-36-Carburetor/p/15456407/category=18665965
  8. Better check that the brake drums fit inside the rims.
  9. https://www.quietride.com/catalogpdfs/dodge_truck_catalog.pdf
  10. old one was grounded through the fixture
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