Disc brakes and no money need list

[Jj1981]

I’m a frugal guy that loves to make things work buying a kit or doing it the easy way for some reason isn’t my style.  I’m about to start on the brakes on my b2b I’m wondering what rotors fit our hubs when changed over to studs and the drum assembly removed also what is the master cylinder I need for discs that will fit thanks 

[Los_Control]

Not what you asked but it might fit what you want.

Check out Rustyhope disk brake kit, they are cheap and consist of the mounting brackets you need to make for the calipers and some misc bolts you need.

Then it provides you with the parts list and napa parts numbers of what you need to assemble everything.

 

I have not used mine yet, but off the top of the head, think you use mopar rotors, GM calipers, combo of mopar and F150 wheel bearings ...

For the price and all the headache it will save you, I say is money well spent ... and you need to be a decent fabricator to make the mounts, then the proto model then redo them to something more refined, then make something that really works .... save yourself the trouble.

[RustyNCA]

1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

Not what you asked but it might fit what you want.

Check out Rustyhope disk brake kit, they are cheap and consist of the mounting brackets you need to make for the calipers and some misc bolts you need.

Then it provides you with the parts list and napa parts numbers of what you need to assemble everything.

 

I have not used mine yet, but off the top of the head, think you use mopar rotors, GM calipers, combo of mopar and F150 wheel bearings ...

For the price and all the headache it will save you, I say is money well spent ... and you need to be a decent fabricator to make the mounts, then the proto model then redo them to something more refined, then make something that really works .... save yourself the trouble.

We just finished installing the Rustyhope kit on our Dodge.  A couple of his part numbers didn't work for us, but the setup works great and we are happy to have discs on the truck.  His parts worked great and his list was very helpful.  The one thing we didn't use was the brake lines on his list.  We went with some braided steel lines  and an adapter from banjo to an at the frame rail from Jegs instead.

 

Cheers

RustyNCA

 

Edited October 11, 2018 by RustyNCA

[NiftyFifty]

Frugal and brakes don't really go hand in hand in my mind, their the one thing you definitely don't want to tinker with...order the RustyHope break kit, then buy the new parts in the list and save yourself a lot of aggravation and look for other areas to save on costs.  I will say that I agree the brake line listed in the kit isn't a great fit, but it does work, you just have to forget using the mounting bracket they come with, and cut that off.

[Todd B]

Please don’t cut corners on brakes. My family is on the roads with you. 

[59bisquik]

I used a Scarebird kit and was happy with it. I liked it because it was a no drill install. I just had my axle lowered and rebuilt so I didn’t want to take the king pins apart again. It also comes with a parts list to get your own calipers etc. As for brake lines, I always have braided stainless made for all of my projects. There is a place in town that makes them for me.

[Los_Control]

15 minutes ago, 59bisquik said:

I used a Scarebird kit and was happy with it. I liked it because it was a no drill install. I just had my axle lowered and rebuilt so I didn’t want to take the king pins apart again.

Interesting point, I bought my kit for another project and the king pins needed to be replaced.

Current project the king pins are good and not going to be replaced, I assumed drilling the holes with the spindles on the the axle ... now I wonder?

 

Same time, different project different goals, I have no plans to use them on this truck and to stay with drums.  Kit may be for sale in the far future.

[59bisquik]

You could drill and tap them while on the truck. But for a 5/8 fine thread bolt if I remember correctly, it would be easier to do on a drill press for a straight hole and easier to tap.

[RustyNCA]

1 hour ago, 59bisquik said:

You could drill and tap them while on the truck. But for a 5/8 fine thread bolt if I remember correctly, it would be easier to do on a drill press for a straight hole and easier to tap.

Did we just get lucky, I didn't have to drill anything on our 34?  I just didn't like the fit of the brake lines and wanted to keep the banjo mount on the frame.  The dust caps suggest in the kit didn't work for us either, but those were cheap so..

[Merle Coggins]

Your '34 is likely a different configuration than the B-Series trucks.

[Radarsonwheels]

I did the rusty hope setup. It basically uses a spacer on the spindle to put a dodge diplomat hub/rotor in a spot where the bearings will work. Then there is a bracket that holds the caliper. My kingpins wouldn’t budge so I drilled and tapped the knuckles sitting in my driveway. I ended up getting the kingpins re-done at the machine shop later anyway. I remember some large odd size drillbit like 37/64ths or something.

[Radarsonwheels]

I did the rusty hope setup. It basically uses a spacer on the spindle to put a dodge diplomat hub/rotor in a spot where the bearings will work. Then there is a bracket that holds the caliper. My kingpins wouldn’t budge so I drilled and tapped the knuckles sitting in my driveway. I ended up getting the kingpins re-done at the machine shop later anyway. I remember some large odd size drillbit like 37/64ths or something. The only tough thing is making the cotter pin work with the nut moved out on the spindle.

[Radarsonwheels]

If you squeeze any fixed caliper on a rotor that fits on there then you can connect the dots- fixed caliper has to be centered, floating is more forgiving up to a point.

[Plymouthy Adams]

fixed position caliper will have inboard and outboard pistons...good set up....but double the trouble on rebuild....latest inboard/outboard piston caliper I rebuilt for the rear has 60+ parts per caliper to inspect and clean....slightly fewer for the fronts...

[59bisquik]

The Scarbird kit came with aluminum hubs so there was no need for bearings spacers. The rotors were slip on style for a Ranger and GM floating calipers. 

 

The older setups let you reuse your original hub once you drilled out the rivets and threw your drums away. You could still use the stock lug bolts too.

Edited October 12, 2018 by 59bisquik

[Pete]

Questions for you guys who used the Rustyhope kit:

 

Did you keep the original master cylinder, or upgrade? Did you use any addition parts like proportioning valves, etc.?

 

Pete

[59bisquik]

You can keep the original master, however this is great time to upgrade. I believe the B series guys use the Cherokee master cylinder and then pick up the proportioning valve from the wrecking yard.

[johnsartain]

On 10/15/2018 at 5:46 AM, 59bisquik said:

You can keep the original master, however this is great time to upgrade. I believe the B series guys use the Cherokee master cylinder and then pick up the proportioning valve from the wrecking yard.

That's what I did, 98 Cherokee master Cylinder, and proportioning valve. Since you have the original master cylinder you can use it to make a pattern for the adapter plate to go from the 3 hole master cylinder to a 2 hole. I used 2  1-1/4 X 5/16-18 studs and a 3/8 inch plate, loctite-ing the studs in the plate. The plate can be bolted to the bell housing with the original master cylinder bolts. Use the original dust boot from the single master cylinder. I found that I really don't need a vacuum assisted power brake with this setup and the 2 chamber Master cylinder is much safer than the single.

[NiftyFifty]

On 10/12/2018 at 2:21 PM, 59bisquik said:

The Scarbird kit came with aluminum hubs so there was no need for bearings spacers. The rotors were slip on style for a Ranger and GM floating calipers. 

 

The older setups let you reuse your original hub once you drilled out the rivets and threw your drums away. You could still use the stock lug bolts too.

 

 

What's the deal with your tie rod block? Never seen a set up like that before

 

[59bisquik]

2 minutes ago, NiftyFifty said:

 

 

What's the deal with your tie rod block? Never seen a set up like that before

 

Those are very typical with lowered axles. It moves the steering linkage down so it doesnt interfere with the springs and oil pan. The other way to do it is a Ford offset tie rod end, but in my case, that would of not been enough to clear.

[lonejacklarry]

Are those tie rod drop blocks from Nostalgia Sid's?

[59bisquik]

3 hours ago, lonejacklarry said:

Are those tie rod drop blocks from Nostalgia Sid's?

Yes

[NiftyFifty]

6 hours ago, 59bisquik said:

Those are very typical with lowered axles. It moves the steering linkage down so it doesnt interfere with the springs and oil pan. The other way to do it is a Ford offset tie rod end, but in my case, that would of not been enough to clear.

 

Are they actually above your scrub line? If they are they look pretty close too it.  That’s the one thing that always scared me about a lowered axle, and even I had to be careful when I did my front power steering rack, but I’ve got a few good inches before my line.

[59bisquik]

24 minutes ago, NiftyFifty said:

 

Are they actually above your scrub line? If they are they look pretty close too it.  That’s the one thing that always scared me about a lowered axle, and even I had to be careful when I did my front power steering rack, but I’ve got a few good inches before my line.

They are above the scrub line by a good inch or so. Speaking of scrub, its close on the wheels to the bottom of the axle. As long as just one tire goes flat on that axle at a time, we should be fine... two, well thats another story.