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Posted

Hi All, As you all know, I am putting a 360 in my 50 business coupe, I need to know about using the stock radiator, or changing to what? Where is a good place to have one made? Is anybody using the frame mounted transmission coolers, that are air cooled? Thanks in advance for your help. Tony C

Posted

Ed Gross is using the stock radiator with a 440 in his Plymouth with good results. If your radiator is in good shape and flowing well, why replace it?

Posted

In my application with the 41 Dodge w/383 I did not get a radiator so opted for a 3" aluminum Griffin from Summit along with the 2" x 24" tranny oil coller. I also have AC. All my stuff is forward of the rad mount. The rad is going for about 195.00 and the coller is about 40.00.

In my 52 I have the 360 also..radiator mounts forward of the shell here also for proper clearance..(running AC here also) I will run a stock rad out of a Dodge 318 Dakota..oil coller is integral.

The 51 wagon with 3.9 V6 will set with stock rad position. Will use Dakota application radiator here also....A500 4 speed auto so again oil cooler is integral.

Just keep in mind if you use the stock radiator, the pressure cap will have to be very low vent pressure to prevent bursting of the old seams in the stock unit. My opinion..others may differ...

Posted

I've had my radiator checked and it cannot be rodded anymore, due to rust. I've had two places tell me that and they said that it's seen better days. All the quotes I'm getting are in the $400 range for a newly rebuilt radiator, which won't have the honeycomb pattern anymore when they are finished. Any ideas?

Posted

Yah, get it re-cored,to a 3 row or get a honeycomb rad in mint condition. A newly re-cored rad will operate very nicely.

Posted

I'm running a 350SBC 350TH w air and have a recored stock radiator w 180 thermostat in my P 15 coupe. It runs on the warm side at 60-70MPH (Over 215) in 90+ weather with the air on, Seems OK without the air. I'm having a Walker Cobra ZAC 736-1with a built in AC condensor installed tomorrow morning. I am not going to hook the tranny cooler to the radiator as I am now running a separate cooler anyway. I was told by a guy at a Good Guys event that his P15 with the same setup with no AC rarely gets over 160-170 Hopefully the new radiator will do the trick. Not cheap, right around $900 with shipping + tax. Plus a couple hrs labor to install and hook up the air. I will post a review as soon as I get a chance to test it out. Only drawback that I can see to this whole operation however is the fact that I will not be able to remove the radiator without disconnecting and purging the air conditioner. This is something I can't do my self at this point since I don't know squat about AC. Every thing else on the car I am comfortable doing myself, as this is the 3rd P15 I have had, The last one being a body off restoration, but only 80 - 90% completed before I was made an offer I couldn't refuse.

Posted

I'm planning on using my stock 48 Dodge radiator with a 318. My radiator shop man cleaned and installed a new filler neck to use a pressure cap and blocked off the original over flow. He said I should have no problems. The 48 radiator is as at least twice as large as the 318's original radiator from a 1970 Dodge. I will run an external radiator cooler.

Posted

winsor8 , Did you mean to say an external transmission cooler ? Your stock radiator wasn't made to hold much , if any , pressure , I understand that they will split a seam along the tank if under pressure . How many pound cap are you planning on using ? Perhaps your radiator man knows best .

Posted

I am running a late 350 sbc with a 700R-4 tranny in my 49 Dodge.. I am using a $130 aluminum radiator from Speedways. I have the trans cooler and the air cond. coils mounted in front of it...14lb. cap ...runs about 180 degrees during the summer drive down the interstate....goes up to about 200+ a little with the air on.. but heck, these engines are made to run at 220 degrees and better with out any problems....according to my mechanic....john

Posted

Hey John Burke, Did you have any trouble mounting the Speedway Radiator? I hanen't put my motor in as yet and wondering if I will have room for the A/C condenser up front along with the trans cooler. I was thinking about using the frame mounted trans cooler, is any one using the frame mounted trans cooler? Tony C

Posted

Tony if you need any measurements off the dakota radiator I have an extra that is out of a vehicle and easily measured.

Posted

Either 92 or 93 I don't remember which parts truck I kept it from.

Posted
winsor8 , Did you mean to say an external transmission cooler ? Your stock radiator wasn't made to hold much , if any , pressure , I understand that they will split a seam along the tank if under pressure . How many pound cap are you planning on using ? Perhaps your radiator man knows best .

Right, I should have said external transmission cooler. I'm not sure of of the pressure cap that I'll be using. There is a formula which I can't quote exactly that says for every pound of pressure the boiling point is lowered x number of degrees.

Posted

The formula is around 3 degrees per pound of pressurization, you could possibly go with a 4lb cap, this would allow you to raise the boiling point of water at sealevel to 224 degrees, with 50/50 antifreeze and water this could be 230 to 235, plenty of max temp. I am not sure I would go higher than a 7 lb cap, unless the whole rad has been redesigned for pressure.......Fred

Posted

Ok measurements from a 94 dakota. This was a 4x4 v8 truck. Total width 31.5in and height 22. Core itself 17.5h x 25.5w. bottom hose is 3.5 to 5 in in from pass side and top is 6.25 to 8 from drivers side. There is a mounting ear that goes out 2.75in from each side right at the top. No mounting flanges at the bottom as its designed to sit on pins.

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