P20 fender welting shape

[Hawkhero]

Sorry if this is a retread. I'm in the process of prepping my P20 for paint and when I pulled the fender welt I noticed it's both rubber and T-shaped. 

There is no evidence that the fender welt had been replaced in the past (there's undercoating all over the bolts) and the shape is the same where it extended past the trailing edge of the fender. 

Was this normal for Plymouths? Or is this an anomaly of the San Leandro plant? 

Lastly, does anyone know where I can get this type of welting? I really liked how it looked on the car. It was very clean. 

Thanks,

--Brian

[dpollo]

It is a special shape for this car.  I noticed somewhere that it is available but cannot remember where.  Perhaps another forum member can help. 

 It seems to be a very durable plastic -like material . I have never had to replace it on any of these cars that I have owned or worked on.   Sometimes it gets painted  over .  I have then  repainted it with signwriters' black.

 

[chopt50wgn]

Not sure where you can get this type of welting. I can tell you that when I did my P20 wagon over ,I got welting from Julianos. You can check out there site at Julianos.com

[LazyK]

12 hours ago, dpollo said:

It is a special shape for this car.  I noticed somewhere that it is available but cannot remember where.  Perhaps another forum member can help. 

 It seems to be a very durable plastic -like material . I have never had to replace it on any of these cars that I have owned or worked on.   Sometimes it gets painted  over .  I have then  repainted it with signwriters' black.

 

typical black, not body color?  or does it depend on year/model?

 

[Mark Haymond]

My gray 50 Plymouth had black welting on the rear fenders. I think I got replacement welting from Andy Berbaum  but that was 15 years ago. It was a little tricky getting it in straight during the fender tightening but it looked good at the end. I had the car painted first and put in the black welting afterward. 

[dpollo]

always black. 50 to 52 all the same and probably for 49

[desoto1939]

the desoto airflows and chrylser airflows had the fender welting stained the color of the car. This was taken directly from the airflow club but allthe other had black or the optional stainless steel fender welting.  I did my 39 desoto with the pastic welting becasue it acts as an antisqueek material and does not collect water. Also withthe plastic style if polish gets onthe plastiv vinyl you can wipe it off with out leaving a mark or stain fromtje polish.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[DrDoctor]

Try Wichita Trimming, in Wichita, Kansas.

 

 

[Hawkhero]

Wow, thanks everyone!

It was black when I got the car. The stuff is pretty sturdy and I'm surprised by how much was cut out when it was installed. Basically, all but one inch was cut out except at the bolt holes where it was left full width with a notch for the bolt but "hooked" so that when fitted, it didn't easily fall back out. 

I'll see if I can clean it up and save this stuff. Otherwise I'll check out Wichita Trimming. 

Thanks again!

[greg g]

To ease installation, put loops of masking tape on the vertical part, the stuff that goes between the body and fender.  This will allow you to manipulate the bead portion from below as you tighten the nuts and bolts. When satisfied with the fit cut the excess off.  Make the loops about three to four inches long, clean the spot you are going to stick it to with some thinner or solvent before sticking the tape on.

[Hawkhero]

As an update to this story, I found that Steele Rubber makes a universal mounting pad that is this exact shape. 

 

https://www.steelerubber.com/universal-mounting-pad-70-0308-17

 

Bit pricey at $5/ft but it's dead on. 

 

--Brian

[neil and ethan]

has anyone gone without the welt entirely. I am not planning the expensive paint and body work  job at this time.

   just once the rust is repaired,   a cheapo flat black paint job,,

     I was wondering about a paintable caulking to fill the seam.,  so if in future , still have option to do the full restore.

      unless it is a greater invitation to rust.

 there is some pretty good stuff around  these days .

 

[desoto1939]

Put the plastic style fender welting into the fender gap. This acts as an antisqeek material and also prevents the water from getting into the gap between the body and fender. If you put in putty then you will have to scrap the material off the fender and body and you will have to be very exact as to not getting the putting onthe fender and body.

 

Rich Hartung

[Plymouthy Adams]

18 hours ago, Hawkhero said:

As an update to this story, I found that Steele Rubber makes a universal mounting pad that is this exact shape. 

 

https://www.steelerubber.com/universal-mounting-pad-70-0308-17

 

Bit pricey at $5/ft but it's dead on. 

 

--Brian

 

this item is basically for shaping gaskets about mirror bases, door handles, light bezels and such should you choose to mount with a body gasket...for mounting the fender you need a bit heavier material.  You can buy the stuff from Restoration Specialties or you can go generic beaded welting in a variety of colors or Dennis Carpenter if you want stainless steel beading instead.  Look on some hot rod sites or e-bay for fender welting..below link will show you some of what is available...

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=porsche+914+-fits&_sop=10&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R3.TR3.TRC1.A0.H0.Xfender+welting.TRS0&_nkw=rubber+fender+welting&_sacat=0

[Hawkhero]

3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 

this item is basically for shaping gaskets about mirror bases, door handles, light bezels and such should you choose to mount with a body gasket...for mounting the fender you need a bit heavier material.  You can buy the stuff from Restoration Specialties or you can go generic beaded welting in a variety of colors or Dennis Carpenter if you want stainless steel beading instead.  Look on some hot rod sites or e-bay for fender welting..below link will show you some of what is available...

 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=porsche+914+-fits&_sop=10&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1311.R3.TR3.TRC1.A0.H0.Xfender+welting.TRS0&_nkw=rubber+fender+welting&_sacat=0

 

So I'm presuming that the material is too soft for fender welt? The originals I have are pretty stiff with some flexibility. I imagine that new, they were a little more flexible.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

--Brian

[allbizz49]

20 hours ago, neil and ethan said:

has anyone gone without the welt entirely. I am not planning the expensive paint and body work  job at this time.

   just once the rust is repaired,   a cheapo flat black paint job,,

     I was wondering about a paintable caulking to fill the seam.,  so if in future , still have option to do the full restore.

      unless it is a greater invitation to rust.

 there is some pretty good stuff around  these days .

 

Weld the rear fenders to the body. That's what I did to mine. I am going more of a custom route though. 

[Young Ed]

On 11/26/2017 at 9:55 PM, Hawkhero said:

Sorry if this is a retread. I'm in the process of prepping my P20 for paint and when I pulled the fender welt I noticed it's both rubber and T-shaped. 

There is no evidence that the fender welt had been replaced in the past (there's undercoating all over the bolts) and the shape is the same where it extended past the trailing edge of the fender. 

Was this normal for Plymouths? Or is this an anomaly of the San Leandro plant? 

Lastly, does anyone know where I can get this type of welting? I really liked how it looked on the car. It was very clean. 

Thanks,

--Brian

 

 

I don't believe you will find a source for that same type of welting. I believe for Dads 51 he had a pair of good used that he cleaned up.