1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

[46Ply]

On 7/16/2018 at 2:19 PM, knuckleharley said:

You won't notice any power difference between the modified 218 you bought  over the pretty much identical 230 you were going to build.

Okay, I see what you meant.  Thanks.

[Robert Smith]

Hey gang,

Something odd happened yesterday. I was recently gifted a reproduction rubber floor mat for my Dodge. It's supposed to fit, so I thought but, it appears it's just an inch or half inch shy of the total width of the front floor pan. Also, I'm not sure how far the mat is supposed to go under the front seat, if I need to cut any of it to fit around the seat or what not. I'm searching for any photos of original interior examples so, I can see how the factory installed it. If any '40 Dodge or Plymouth guys, who have the original interior, with the original rubber mat intact, can snap some photos and show me where it starts, (how far back it reaches under the seat) that would be really great! All the photos I've seen online are very little help because, they're low res and small.

Thanks!

[Robert Smith]

Update:

Late last night, I was cruising eBay for parts. Found a guy selling a set of kick panels from a '40 DeSoto! I couldn't believe it, they're not too bad at all and the price was stupid cheap! I got the pair for $12! They will need some TLC but, nothing I can't manage. Now my front compartment will be just a little more complete! So excited!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192591287149?ul_noapp=true

[knuckleharley]

5 minutes ago, Robert Smith said:

Update:

Late last night, I was cruising eBay for parts. Found a guy selling a set of kick panels from a '40 DeSoto! I couldn't believe it, they're not too bad at all and the price was stupid cheap! I got the pair for $12! They will need some TLC but, nothing I can't manage. Now my front compartment will be just a little more complete! So excited!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192591287149?ul_noapp=true

Of all the things you COULD be,"lucky" is the best of them all.

[kridgleyud]

Hello all.  It has been a long road and the project took the back burner for a while.  But, here is an update on where the build is now:

- Rear replaced with a 98 ford 8.8 with disc brakes

- Engine buttoned up, repainted silver

- All the body rust repaired and sealed, fuel tank repaired and installed

- Front disc brake conversion (Scarebird) finished and pedal assembly reinstalled

- Trans reinstalled, clutch linkage and shift linkage reconnected

- Front and rear brakes plumbed, bled and tested

- New wiper motor installed from Newport (great kit) while dash is out

 

On the list of things to work out are:

- How the heck the throttle linkage from pedal gets to the side of the motor to the bell crank ... no pictures from my books on how this linkage is made ... I have a rod, but can't make out how this attached .... it can't be solely supported by bellcrank and floor board, can it? 

- Prime and paint

- Wiring

- Exhaust work ... looks like it's not possible to run true duals all the way back given the battery box and left side mounted fuel tank ... only have a small opening between tank and spare tire well to run tubing and this is not big enough for duals.  If anyone has info on they did it around the tank and spare tire well, I'd be happy to see but everything I've seen, it's too tight

[Los_Control]

looking good, no idea if this helps or not, Is my 218/3spd in my 49 B1B.

[kridgleyud]

@Los_Control Thanks for the photo ... the trucks ran the linkage to the pass side of the block, the cars ran it to the driver side and across the head.  I've seen on later model cars where there its a hinge or pivot on the firewall.  Mine looks as is there is a rod that connects the bell crank on the left side of the motor to the pedal.  I have a rod that looks the part, I'm just not sure how it goes into the firewall area.  There is a tab bolted onto it with no indication of fasteners.  

 

Here is what I can tell, looking through all the tear down photos, you can see the rod headed toward the firewall.

[fstfish66]

comming along nicely

[mrwrstory]

On 5/26/2020 at 7:19 AM, kridgleyud said:

 

- Exhaust work ... looks like it's not possible to run true duals all the way back given the battery box and left side mounted fuel tank ... only have a small opening between tank and spare tire well to run tubing and this is not big enough for duals.  If anyone has info on they did it around the tank and spare tire well, I'd be happy to see but everything I've seen, it's too tight

I moved my gas tank.  'Tho you may not want to go to that extreme, what about "stacking" the pipes in that tight area, then becoming side by side at the bumper?

[casper50]

This is the way I ended up doing it.    

 

[kridgleyud]

Update, over the last week or so I was able to make up the exhaust.  For this, I just ran of the headers into a single pipe back, through a glasspack and out the original location at the rear.  I reinstalled the dash to work through the shifting linkage and that's adjusted good now.  For the first fire-up and drive out of the garage, I also reinstalled the gauges after refurbishing the cluster.  Original glass had almost no lettering left so it was stripped, painted, sanded and I used my wifes vinyl cutter for the background.  The original speedo was also very bad off, so I picked up a 30 speedo with really good shape color filter and face and adapted that onto the 40 body.  Came out pretty good I think.

 

When reinstalling the gauges, I learned about the unique (to me at least) fitting for the oil pressure gauge, so that's the last thing stopping the start up and low speed test out of the garage.  I have that now, so hopefully this weekend I can milestone this build thread with a nice video for you all, we'll see.  Throttle pedal rod was also installed, finally got that right and spring locations worked out.  I also started working out the radio and decided to add a small tach into the dash.  I'm going to use the original radio knob locations for turn signal indicator lights and where the actual radio was, put in a bluetooth radio remote (small control panel with like 4 buttons to work hidden radio) and mount the hideaway radio under the dash wired to a 2 channel speaker in the original location.

 

Floor closed up, upholstery fellow quoted work, new tires ordered and then paint coming up next.  Once she's painted we'll get cracking on wiring, interior and glass, and alignment before inspection.  She's getting close.  I have a goal to get out to the later summer/fall cruises with her and enjoy it as I address the more cosmetic stuff.

[Andydodge]

That dash looks familar, albeit on the wrong side of the car.....lol...............andyd

[kridgleyud]

Hey andy, love what you did to your 40, seen a lot on this site and advice you gave really helped me out as well.  I'm installing a little 52mm tach in that unused area of the dash between wheel and door.  Once it's in and radio is set up, I'll post an update.

[Andydodge]

When I had the 41 Plymouth I used a small aftermarket Tach that came with a chromed housing, it was about 2.5" diameter and I mounted it as shown on the dash top, looked neat IMHO..........tho' obviously didn't match the stock gauges.......andyd. 

[kridgleyud]

So, another good weekend on the 40.  If I can figure out the video posting part of this, I have a video of her running as I checked out gauges, exhaust, gears, etc.  As with all steps forward, there are always things that set you back.  This time, the water pump bypass was cracked so there's a coolant leak.  Very cheap for new, so there's one on the way before running for too long.

 

Tach came, so I test fit this into the area to the left (or right for RHD'ers) of the gauge cluster.  Also test fit in the modern radio control.  I have no intent on reusing the old mopar 802 since I'm 12V and they're very far gone to rebuild.  The amp unit is a small brick that mounts under the dash, piked it up from Woodys Custom Shop and I'll use a bluetooth marine switch to control.  This is a little better than a cable from my phone to cable, cleaner.  The speaker will be a dual channel 5 inch speaker to mount in original location.  For the old radio control knob holes, I plan to drop in LEDs for turn signal indicators.

 

Last bit before closing up the floor was to make a bracket to hold a mechanical brake switch.  I'm not a fan of the pressure switched plumbed into the lines as it's one more place to leak and any servicing of the switch will not break the circuit.  I mounted this between the clutch and brake linkage on the frame.

 

Next up is the motor break in (once coolant leak is resolved), test drive in and out of garage then onto the painting. 

[kridgleyud]

So with COVID, I've been home and that has been wonderful for the old Dodge.  Fall/winter has been focused on getting paint laid down.  I used the TCP Global single stage acrylic urethane, high gloss with great success, I really like this paint, it lays down really nice and leaves a good shine when cured.

 

Then moved onto wiring, dash, interior (new covered seats), adding seat belts for the kiddos.

 

Can finally say that the test drive went well - now moving onto reassembly of panels and trim work.  For the colder portion of the winter I plan to get her ready for tags in the spring and FINALLY be able to cruise and show.  Planning to trailer her up to Watkins Glen for a nice family getaway this September.

[Marcel Backs]

That is one nice sedan. I have about 40 spent wire wheels and a drill that puked it's brushes out at me into my 40. Many many hours. Once you have the rusty bits and flakies taken off with wire wheel (s), go to the KBS coatings website. Their 3 step finishing system which consists of these 3 products: "aqua clean" (best degreaser out there bar none), "rust blast"  which converts remaining rust into an adhesion surface in prep for "rust seal paint" which dries to a bullet proof pro look finish. Better than sandblast/prime/sand/paint paint option. I did my frame and undercarriage with amazing results. Rust does not come back when 2 coats of paint are used and the instructions from the mfr are adhered to. Caution: paint will not come off of skin even with gunwash or acetone.

PS they also make a manifold paint which is slicker than a trout's ear!

My salutations to your diligence, M

[kridgleyud]

Update for Feb.  Last sheet metal installed, carbs rebuilt and balanced, fitted modern light sockets around the car for 12V bulbs.  Put wheel spacers on rear wheels to bump them out a bit.  Last bits are headlight wiring, tie in fog light (using as turn signals), and wipers.  Then head onto motor vehicle inspection for my tags and I'm ready to cruise.

 

Now I'm on the hunt for some odds and ends.  Period front tag holder to bumper guard, usable hubcaps, and passenger side front side panel ornaments (just under hood).

Edited March 3, 2021 by kridgleyud

[knuckleharley]

 Sure is pretty,

 

LOVE the blue,too!

[rich-d]

do any of you know if the '41 upper control arm swap will work on a '39? I would have to use the '39 upper inner mounting bar because it only has 2 mounting holes. I'm not a fan of the single sided outer mount plus the threaded part of the arm is a little loose on the bushing.

[p15-1948]

23 hours ago, rich-d said:

do any of you know if the '41 upper control arm swap will work on a '39? I would have to use the '39 upper inner mounting bar because it only has 2 mounting holes. I'm not a fan of the single sided outer mount plus the threaded part of the arm is a little loose on the bushing.

I think those are supposed to be a little loose so they don't bind.

[p15-1948]

this is from some 1949 literature.  May not apple to pre-war cars?

Edited January 26 by p15-1948

[p15-1948]

couldn't get both in one reply

[GMpenn]

Part Catalog Lookup (amsnos.com)Part Catalog Lookup (amsnos.com)

[andyd]

Kridgely.......did you end up getting those 2 chrome pieces for the passenger side under the hood?..........dunno why I missed your request of nearly 3 yrs ago but I should be able to help if you still need them....let me know, I have a few spare that I can post to you gratis.........my direct email is     scaleautomobilia@yahoo.com   regards Andy Douglas