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Posted (edited)

Have not all of us that did our own body work, just part of the progress!  Only once??  :D

I had to order some new shop vac filters for mine half way though-the filter  was old to start with! before someone says I used too much filler!  :lol:

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
Posted
14 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

Have not all of us that did our own body work, just part of the progress!  Only once??  :D

I had to order some new shop vac filters for mine half way though-the filter  was old to start with! before someone says I used too much filler!  :lol:

DJ

The shop vac will be my next weapon of choice. So far I've only used a broom and shovel because of the volume of dust I knew I'd be sweeping. I just need to get it pretty darn clean before paint

 

20 hours ago, casper50 said:

My shop floor looked like a 1920's Oklahoma dust storm hit it when I sanded mine.  Took me 2 days with the door open and a leaf blower to get most of it out.

That's not an exaggeration! 

Posted

I've got a '47 which is basically like yours.  Every time I see somebody like yourself go deeper into some aspect of their restoration than I do, I wonder how difficult it might be and if I'll be able to get the thing back together if I do.

How difficult was it to remove the front fenders as a unit?  I've got the inner panels off and painted for the battery tray and such, but it looks so inviting to have the entire front off like you do.

Posted
45 minutes ago, Bingster said:

I've got a '47 which is basically like yours.  Every time I see somebody like yourself go deeper into some aspect of their restoration than I do, I wonder how difficult it might be and if I'll be able to get the thing back together if I do.

How difficult was it to remove the front fenders as a unit?  I've got the inner panels off and painted for the battery tray and such, but it looks so inviting to have the entire front off like you do.

It's really fairly easy. When we did it, we took the grill out (just to remove the weight and because of everything else we are doing), removed the wiring on the inner fenders (you already have that done), took off the trim down the rockers (there is one bolt behind the trim on the front fenders), and unbolted the 9/16" headed bolts down the side of the core support and the bolts holding it the firewall/rocker area. You will also need to remove the small belt line stainless trim that goes between the hood and door. It's not hard, but we broke a few bolts off on the firewall which I was able to drill out and re tap. It's also fairly light weight to handle. My dad and I can easily handle the entire front clip this way, and he removed it by himself the first time with our engine hoist if you don't have help. Removing the front clip made rebuilding the front end VERY easy, and I was also able to detail the front half of the frame easily without it on. 

As far as the floor board bolts. That panel was already off the car when we bought it, and I can't locate the original bolts anywhere. I'm going to end up at the hardware store to buy new. 

Posted

Thanks. That looks like a plan. I very stupidly removed a lot of bolts seven years ago when I got the car, thinking that as I was working on it, I'd remember where they went. Some I did label but others not. I've been pouring through the parts book trying to identify them. It seems that as I am putting things back onto the car, I am finding the right fasteners. It sure would make working on the engine a lot easier!

  • Like 1
Posted
40 minutes ago, Bingster said:

Thanks. That looks like a plan. I very stupidly removed a lot of bolts seven years ago when I got the car, thinking that as I was working on it, I'd remember where they went. Some I did label but others not. I've been pouring through the parts book trying to identify them. It seems that as I am putting things back onto the car, I am finding the right fasteners. It sure would make working on the engine a lot easier!

I think we've all been there! When I restored my truck, my dad warned me to label everything as I took it off. I thought I'd remember it all. I did label some things, and others I thought would be to easy to forget. I was dead wrong! I also thought pictures would be the answer to everything. I THOUGHT I took a picture of everything, but I clearly didn't take enough. Well, once again, my dad was right lol. I hate when that happens! (I later learned he did the same thing on his 41 Desoto when he was in his early 20s) 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

one thing that you can do is count the holes and then see what style of bolt you have that many of or close to that many of. 

Posted

Once you get it all sanded, give it three or four coats of clear satin and you will have a cool patina finish! 

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Posted
7 hours ago, pflaming said:

Once you get it all sanded, give it three or four coats of clear satin and you will have a cool patina finish! 

Lol, Nice try Paul! I'm going for the anti-patina on this one!! 

  • Haha 1
Posted

Paul, you talking rattle cans??

DJ

Posted

Just to give a quick update. Last weekend I got the body work completed, and I started making the "paint booth". I have the ceiling up, and I plan to get the booth completed by Christmas still. I am hoping to get the primmer and blocking done by New Years. As far as the final paint, I want to see how well the booth works with the primmer, and I'll make my decision on weather to wait for a little warmer weather or not. I should know next week. 

I am pretty happy with the drivers door on the car. It was in pretty bad shape to start with, and it came out pretty good. I probably have 8 hours in that drivers door alone with fitting it, getting it to close right, and with body work. Its not perfect, but it's definitely good enough for me! 

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Posted
26 minutes ago, 52b3b Joe said:

Just to give a quick update. Last weekend I got the body work completed, and I started making the "paint booth". I have the ceiling up, and I plan to get the booth completed by Christmas still. I am hoping to get the primmer and blocking done by New Years. As far as the final paint, I want to see how well the booth works with the primmer, and I'll make my decision on weather to wait for a little warmer weather or not. I should know next week. 

I am pretty happy with the drivers door on the car. It was in pretty bad shape to start with, and it came out pretty good. I probably have 8 hours in that drivers door alone with fitting it, getting it to close right, and with body work. Its not perfect, but it's definitely good enough for me! 

 

What type and brand/brands of paint do you plan on using,and why did you pick it over others?

Posted
5 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

What type and brand/brands of paint do you plan on using,and why did you pick it over others?

I am going to use Automotive Art Paint's Motocryl. Its a single stage Acrylic Urethane. They are the cheapest I found and I should be able to paint the car for under $400 and have some extra paint for touch up. I have enough primmer left over from other projects, so I don't need to buy any. I've never heard of the brand before, but the guys at the local paint store really like it so we will see. I figure the car isn't worth a ton of money, and like all our other cars, it's not going to be a garage queen, so why put $1,000 in paint on it. 

Posted
1 hour ago, 52b3b Joe said:

I am going to use Automotive Art Paint's Motocryl. Its a single stage Acrylic Urethane. They are the cheapest I found and I should be able to paint the car for under $400 and have some extra paint for touch up. I have enough primmer left over from other projects, so I don't need to buy any. I've never heard of the brand before, but the guys at the local paint store really like it so we will see. I figure the car isn't worth a ton of money, and like all our other cars, it's not going to be a garage queen, so why put $1,000 in paint on it. 

I couldn't agree more with your reasoning.

Please keep us updated on how the paint works for you.

It sounds like you are using another brand of primer or primer/surfacer for the base coat. Please let us know the brand you use and how well it and the top coat "play together".

Posted
26 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

I couldn't agree more with your reasoning.

Please keep us updated on how the paint works for you.

It sounds like you are using another brand of primer or primer/surfacer for the base coat. Please let us know the brand you use and how well it and the top coat "play together".

I have a gallon of PPG JP202 2K primmer. I was told any 2K primmer will work with it. I'll know some results once I spray the firewall and door jambs. 

Posted (edited)

Today was the first day of primer. I've been busy making something that resembles a paint booth (more to keep the rest of the garage clean and to keep the fumes away from the furnace as much as possible). My dad and I finished a few minor details, and we masked the car off today, so I thought I might as well give it a go. This is PPG epoxy primer that I'm using as a barrier between the original paint and the new. It's left over from my truck, and it was the perfect amount to get a good wet coat over the entire car. Tomorrow I'll fix some minor imperfections in the epoxy and put down a couple layers of high build over the body work areas to get the sanding marks out. I'll be a happy guy when the body work and paint is over! 

 

The booth did ok until the filter I have for the exhaust plugged up. I need to rethink it a little bit before I try again. 

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Edited by 52b3b Joe
  • Like 2
Posted
24 minutes ago, 52b3b Joe said:

Today was the first day of primer. I've been busy making something that resembles a paint booth (more to keep the rest of the garage clean and to keep the fumes away from the furnace as much as possible). My dad and I finished a few minor details, and we masked the car off today, so I thought I might as well give it a go. This is PPG epoxy primer that I'm using as a barrier between the original paint and the new. It's left over from my truck, and it was the perfect amount to get a good wet coat over the entire car. Tomorrow I'll fix some minor imperfections in the epoxy and put down a couple layers of high build over the body work areas to get the sanding marks out. I'll be a happy guy when the body work and paint is over! 

 

The booth did ok until the filter I have for the exhaust plugged up. I need to rethink it a little bit before I try again. 

 

I'm interested in hearing how you made an exhaust with a filter,and made it work.

Posted
3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

knuckle..your PM box must be full...cannot drop you a PM....

I wish I knew what to tell you about that. I can't even find my PM box now.

Posted
6 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

it is the envelope to the left of your user name top right of the forum page...

Ok,so how do I delete some of the 200 messages I have there?

 

Posted (edited)

well, if you have no use for the older message you can click on the envelope, at bottom of the pop up is the GO TO INBOX in blue, click this, at the top of the box that just opened you can click the small box top left, go to very bottom and click the trash can....

 

else, you can sort through each message in the inbox and click what ones you want to delete and again click the trash can at the bottom of your screen.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted
23 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

well, if you have no use for the older message you can click on the envelope, at bottom of the pop up is the GO TO INBOX in blue, click this, at the top of the box that just opened you can click the small box top left, go to very bottom and click the trash can....

 

else, you can sort through each message in the inbox and click what ones you want to delete and again click the trash can at the bottom of your screen.

Thanks,I just deleted a bunch of them. The trash can doesn't show up until you have picked messages to delete,and that threw me off.

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