thebeebe5 Posted July 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 Today's efforts.... Radiator boxed up To send in to Brassworks. They "foamed up" a '37 they had at the shop and sent me the empty, fitted box. Definitely worth the cost IMO. Got a second transmission from a forum member here. It's disassembled and looks like it has a good, useable main shaft. My original was better overall, but there is some scoring at the forward bearing surface that fits into the input shaft. Better to use this second shaft I'm thinking.... My trans case is all cleaned and ready to begin assembly. Distributor shaft needed a little attention, so when Pat wasn't looking I chucked it up in the lathe and polished it with the crankshaft polisher. And there was a burr or something inside the upermost part that slides onto the top of the shaft and completes the weight assembly. Ran a valve guide hone throuhh it real quickly and it spins freely now. Ready for reassembly in the painted body. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 (edited) I bead blasted the head and checked it for straightness. It's all good and we'll just do a clean up cut on it prior to install. Before: Edited July 24, 2017 by thebeebe5 Grammar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 After: 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 (edited) Also cc'd the head and found the chamber size to be 82.2cc. There was a recent thread pertaining to chamber size. I'll try to find it and add the information there as well. Edited July 23, 2017 by thebeebe5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 Distributor is all cleaned up inside and out and the body is repainted. I'll let it dry for the week and reassemble next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 Will the head gasket seal now that you have painted a machined surface? I think you are asking for trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 52 minutes ago, Frank Elder said: Will the head gasket seal now that you have painted a machined surface? I think you are asking for trouble. What paint? Looks like an unpainted very clean head to me. Bead blasting does wonders. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) @Don Coatney is correct. We blast cast iron heads with whatever wore out media is in the cabinet at the time. When the gunk is gone we swap out for a fresh load of #8 glass beads and give the heads a once-over, and they almost come out looking polished. Edited March 10, 2021 by thebeebe5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 14 hours ago, thebeebe5 said: Distributor is all cleaned up inside and out and the body is repainted. I'll let it dry for the week and reassemble next weekend. If you hunt around there is a guy overseas I think Poland that reproduces a lot of these small tags. Dist gen starter Etc. Such nice work should be capped off with a nice red tag 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 1 hour ago, Young Ed said: If you hunt around there is a guy overseas I think Poland that reproduces a lot of these small tags. Dist gen starter Etc. Such nice work should be capped off with a nice red tag I don't know what a red tag is, Young Ed... Young Ed-ucate me, please.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 red indicates 6 volt electrical components....green label will indicate 12 volt.......the data tags on the distributor, generator and starter will be either red or green depending on your year/application 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 15 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said: I don't know what a red tag is, Young Ed... Young Ed-ucate me, please.... what Tim said. That aluminum tag on your dist was originally red with a logo on it. 9 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: red indicates 6 volt electrical components....green label will indicate 12 volt.......the data tags on the distributor, generator and starter will be either red or green depending on your year/application Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatie46 Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 What paint did you use on the distributor? I found a VHT epoxy paint I like very well for such things. Self priming and pretty durable, used it on a transmission case and it impressed me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 Doggone I could have sworn that was painted.....my apologies to the chef! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 1 hour ago, Young Ed said: what Tim said. That aluminum tag on your dist was originally red with a logo on it. Okay. Anyone have a photo? And can anyone tell by the number plate on mine if it is correct for a '37? The numbers mean nothing to me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 you would need to post the IGS-xxxxxx number for anyone to tell you more.....(appears to be an IGS cannot make it out at that angle) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 Yours looks a little different based on the stampings but this is one I had from? I took this apart and combined it with a /6 for my project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said: you would need to post the IGS-xxxxxx number for anyone to tell you more.....(appears to be an IGS cannot make it out at that angle) This may help, but it doesn't look like Young Ed's tag IMO. Who knows where it came from... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) per my 1937 Plymouth repair manual, your distributor is spot on for factory....time at 4* ATDC, (EDIT FOR WRONG TIMING) .020 breaker gap, if setting by dwell will be 38* mechanical advance limits are;17-20 ounce breaker spring tension, .008 allowable wear in bushing for run out., condenser is .25 to .28mfd. mechanical advance limits are; 0 advance at 350 rpm, 3* advance at 400rpm, 6* advance at 950 rpm, 11* advance at 1850 vacuum advance starts in at 2* at 6.5 inch of vacuum, 11* at 14 inches of vacuum. 14mm spark plug thread with .025 spark gap. Now get out there, tune it and lay some rubber down the driveway Edited July 23, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 19 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said: This may help, but it doesn't look like Young Ed's tag IMO. Who knows where it came from... My Auto-Lite book doesn't go back to 1937 but here is the info for 1938 ; Distributor IGS - 4003 B-1 is for 1938 Plymouth P5 or P6 or PT 57 . Individual Auto-Lite part numbers are : cap IGC - 1107S , rotor IGS - 1016B , contact set IGP - 3028A , condenser IG - 3927G , breaker plate assy IGS - 2004 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebeebe5 Posted July 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 12 minutes ago, Jerry Roberts said: My Auto-Lite book doesn't go back to 1937 but here is the info for 1938 ; Distributor IGS - 4003 B-1 is for 1938 Plymouth P5 or P6 or PT 57 . Individual Auto-Lite part numbers are : cap IGC - 1107S , rotor IGS - 1016B , contact set IGP - 3028A , condenser IG - 3927G , breaker plate assy IGS - 2004 . Ok, so this is a '38 unit? Also, can anyone tell me about this access? Mine was packed with grease when I disassembled, so I assumed it was for that purpose. Question is, do you just gob grease into it and hope it gets to the shaft? No real way to advance it into the center unless you just push it in with a finger.... Seems an odd attachement to me. Also, is there a source for a seal? This one's gone. I could find a neoprene o-ring with a little effort. Didn't see a solution when I shopped at Bernbaum this am.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) 15 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said: Ok, so this is a '38 unit? Also, can anyone tell me about this access? Mine was packed with grease when I disassembled, so I assumed it was for that purpose. Question is, do you just gob grease into it and hope it gets to the shaft? No real way to advance it into the center unless you just push it in with a finger.... Seems an odd attachement to me. Also, is there a source for a seal? This one's gone. I could find a neoprene o-ring with a little effort. Didn't see a solution when I shopped at Bernbaum this am.... Please read my post above again......! it is correct also for the 1937 PER MY PLYMOUTH REPAIR MANUAL...Jerry stated only that his BOOK did not go back that far....mine did, no second guessing Edited July 23, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyO Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 52 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said: Ok, so this is a '38 unit? Also, can anyone tell me about this access? Mine was packed with grease when I disassembled, so I assumed it was for that purpose. Question is, do you just gob grease into it and hope it gets to the shaft? No real way to advance it into the center unless you just push it in with a finger.... Seems an odd attachement to me. Also, is there a source for a seal? This one's gone. I could find a neoprene o-ring with a little effort. Didn't see a solution when I shopped at Bernbaum this am.... Looks like you need a cap for your grease cup. Here is what some joker did to his Model T grease cup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 Pack it with grease until it reaches the the shaft bearing. Fill it and then fill the cap and put it on one turn. Every thousand miles, turn it one turn in as part of your thousand mile lube and oil routine. No seal needed. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T120 Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: per my 1937 Plymouth repair manual, your distributor is spot on for factory....time at 4* BTDC, .020 breaker gap, if setting by dwell will be 38* mechanical advance limits are;17-20 ounce breaker spring tension, .008 allowable wear in bushing for run out., condenser is .25 to .28mfd. mechanical advance limits are; 0 advance at 350 rpm, 3* advance at 400rpm, 6* advance at 950 rpm, 11* advance at 1850 vacuum advance starts in at 2* at 6.5 inch of vacuum, 11* at 14 inches of vacuum. 14mm spark plug thread with .025 spark gap. Now get out there, tune it and lay some rubber down the driveway Looking at my 1937 Plymouth repair manual, the spec is - points open 4 degrees ATDC, maybe a printing error?....I checked my Motor's auto repair manual and it also says - location of timing marks, vibration damper - spark timing 4th line ATDC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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