6v to 12v Conversion Kits???

[Guest wrightkoss]

Can anyone direct me where to get a 6v to 12v conversion kit for my 1952 Dodge B3GA?

[Tony_Urwin]

Vintage Power Wagons sells one, but you can save a bunch by putting it together yourself. Check out the kit on their website, and source the parts yourself.

[Guest wrightkoss]

Is that going to be all that I need to convert? You don't need the starter solenoid? or the wiring harness?

[Tony_Urwin]

The starter spins faster @ 12V, and may wear out faster, I don't know. I haven't been 12V for long enough to tell. Some of the other guys may have a comment there. If you want to swith to a 12V solenoid, George Asche (or more likely, his son) will refurbish your starter and rewire it for 12V. There must be 12V starters and solenoids available since they made these engines up into the 1960's...

I installed a Painless Performance wiring harness in my '48 Dodge truck, not because it was necessary, but because I had frayed wiring everywhere. The Painless kit (with free shipping) cost me $275 on eBay. There are cheaper wiring kits available, or you can even make your own. The Painless kit installation took about a six pack, and it really was painless. The wires are labeled every 6 inches or so ........left front park light.....left front park light.....left front park light..... so even a knucklehead like me can do it.

[Guest wrightkoss]

Thank you for your help Tony. I was able to find all of the parts that I am going to need for this conversion however now I am trying to figure out replacing the lights situations. Do you know the numbers on how many bulbs and what size you need for the lights? Our parking lights are missing... can I just buy some 4 1/2 inch round lights for this? Did you have to replace the entire headlight or do the bulbs come out? Do you know how many 7/16" bulbs and 1" bulbs that you need? I tried to look on Vintage Power Wagons to get a count but can't see the photo clearly enough.

[Tony_Urwin]

How many (and which type) bulbs depends on your truck. The previous owner had wired my park lights with Signal-Stat sockets for dual filament bulbs. Yours may have single filament bulbs, most do. two bulbs for the speedo, two for the instrument cluster...Just take your old bulbs down to the auto parts store and buy 12V equivalents. The 12V bulbs are a lot easier to find than 6V these days.

headlights are sealed beam.

[Don Coatney]

The starter spins faster @ 12V, and may wear out faster, I don't know. I haven't been 12V for long enough to tell. Some of the other guys may have a comment there. If you want to swith to a 12V solenoid, George Asche (or more likely, his son) will refurbish your starter and rewire it for 12V. There must be 12V starters and solenoids available since they made these engines up into the 1960's...

The 6 volt starter will work on 12 volts. However in addition to spinning faster the solenoid gear engages the flywheel faster. This caused an annoying clunk every time I engaged the starter and twice the starter jammed into the flywheel and stuck. I had to place the transmission in gear and rock the car forwards and backwards to disengage it. For that reason I switched to a 12 volt starter. Got my starter from forum member Greg G as he bought a mid fifties Plymouth engine and the 12 volt starter came with it. The starter was a bolt up with no additional modifications other than I did install new brushes prior to installing the starter in my car. The clunk is gone and the 12 volt starter has never given me any trouble.

I bought a furd 12 volt 4 pole starter solenoid switch from the local auto parts store. The benefit of the fourth pole is it becomes hot with 12 volts every time the starter button is pushed. I ran a wire from this fourth pole directly to my ignition coil by-passing the ballast resistor. So every time I start my car I supply the ignition coil with a full 12 volts (as opposed to the voltage drop the ballast resistor provides) for easier starting. If you do this keep in mind that when using a remote starter button under the hood that the engine will start even with the ignition switch turned off. It will quit running as soon as the remote starter button is released.

[Merle Coggins]

Don,

On the trucks the bendix is manually engaged with a lever that is actuated with a foot pedal, so that shouldn't be an issue.

[Don Coatney]

Thanks Merle;

One of these days I will have to buy a truck and learn to talk the truck language.

[Young Ed]

Don I could set you up with a build your own to suite truck kit. So many 39-47 parts around here!

[Guest wrightkoss]

Do you guys know a good place to get the front marker lights as well as the bezel and sheet metal piece that goes around them?

[Guest wrightkoss]

This is what I am referring to...

[Merle Coggins]

Do you guys know a good place to get the front marker lights as well as the bezel and sheet metal piece that goes around them?

Old Mopar Parts Home Buyers Network (a.k.a. Ebay)

Either that or spend some time at local salvage yards.

[Guest shortlid]

Would a '48 B-1-C have a 6v system also?

[Merle Coggins]

Would a '48 B-1-C have a 6v system also?

Originally, yes. 6 volt positive ground.

[Guest shortlid]

Originally, yes. 6 volt positive ground.

Are 6 volt batteries hard to find? Will one out of a Ford 9N tractor work?

[Guest wrightkoss]

I think that the Ford 9N battery should work fine beings that it is running on a similar 6v system as the truck... you might wait for some confirmation on that but I can't see why not.

[Merle Coggins]

I've seen automotive 6 volt batteries come in two different sizes. I believe they are refered to as Group 1 and Group 2 batteries. I have the larger of the two in my truck. I was able to get mine at my local Farm & Fleet store. I know of others that got 6v batteries from other battery supply houses, such as Batteries Plus, or from Napa, Sears, Walmart, or other auto parts stores or Agg supply outlets. They shouldn't be that hard to find, although they aren't as prevelant as the 12v batteries.

Merle

[Dustin Baker]

Hey guys. I inherited my grandads 1954 dodge c1. It’s the flathead dually. My starter went out completely so I’m looking into doing the conversion to 12v as well. It was a very weak start and would drain the battery most times before it started the truck. I want to keep everything as factory as possible (push the foot petal to start the truck)… does anyone know where I could get a new 12v starter that operates on a foot petal 

[TodFitch]

That 6v starter worked fine when everything was in good shape. Slow cranking is often due to incorrect battery cables but can also be due to worn bearings or other issues in side the starter. My guess is that it will be cheaper for you to rebuild the original starter and install the correct battery cables.

 

And, for what it is worth, 6v starters stand up to abuse pretty well. There are lots of people who converted to 12v but continue to use the original 6v starter. The Bendix (if so equipped) can take a beating but apparently it works pretty well.

[Dustin Baker]

I’m gonna be completely honest with you, I’m not a great mechanic. This truck holds sentimental value close to my heart and I want to do it right and keep it as factory as possible. That being said, i was the one that broke the starter. i had a 6v battery charger on the truck while trying to start it. Things got hot, starter stopped trying to turn over and then I looked at it and there was smoke coming out of it… I called my local “starter/alternator” shop to rebuild and the old man told me it would prob be about the same price to rebuild as it would to do the conversion. I would ultimately love to be able to push the started petal in and it fire right up. 

[Los_Control]

Just now, Dustin Baker said:

the old man told me it would prob be about the same price to rebuild as it would to do the conversion. I would ultimately love to be able to push the started petal in and it fire right up. 

I agree with @TodFitch on this one ..... It would probably be cheaper to have your original starter rebuilt .... If the shop looks at it and says it cannot be rebuilt, too far gone.

Then search for a used starter .... possibly may be some new ones available, I have not looked myself.

I'm converting to 12 volt myself & using my original starter .... Will hold up fine to 12 volts and proven for decades from 100's of people who have done it.

 

Often slow turning & running the battery dead is from bad grounds or improper size battery cables. A 6 volt system draws a lot of amps. They need .00 or .01 sized cables .... about the size of welding cables. The standard 12 volt cables at the auto parts store are too small.

Or possibly your battery is simply getting old and weak, needs replaced. Then of course it could be the starter did need rebuilt in the first place.

 

My truck starts fine on 6 volts I'm changing for other reasons.

 

Converting to 12 volts can open a can of worms. Besides fixing the starter you will now need to buy a 12 volt generator or alternator, new voltage regulator, all new light bulbs.

When you start messing with old original wiring you may end up having to replace it all if not in good condition .... if it is in good condition it will be fine.

Then you have the heater motor, gas gauge, wipers? ..... This is all extra besides just fixing your starter & existing problems. .... Possibly costing 3 times more.

[kencombs]

I have one.  Taken from a 56 pickup.  Replacing with a 56 Plymouth.  
AFAIK 56 was the only year with 12v foot start

[Dustin Baker]

And correct me if I’m wrong… I believe this is a 1954 dodge c1 job rated deluxe. Grandpas truck .HEIC

[Los_Control]

That is a beauty. 

Simple thing about wiring is 6v requires heavy wire because 6v draws more amps then a 12 v .... This is why you need heavy battery cables. 12v cables are not heavy enough.

This is why you can use a 6v starter on a 12v system because it is built with heavier windings .... 12v does not bother a 6v starter.

 

I think what ken has is a 12v starter for a 1956.

I'm not sure it would work to install a 1956 12v starter without converting everything to 12v. I do not think it would hold up to a 6v battery.

 

Looking at the truck, I imagine it was taken well care of. Possible the starter was just going out and needs rebuilt .... I expect close to $200 ... not cheap.

This is also a positive ground vehicle .... making sure you are aware, the + cable from battery goes to the transmission for ground.

The - cable goes to the starter and supplies the power to the vehicle ...... backwards from modern vehicles.  This is why good grounds is so important.

All vehicles it is important to have good grounds, but a + ground vehicle it is crucial .... you will notice any slightly questionable ground on this system.

 

Thats why we are suggesting to get your starter rebuilt, you will need it even if you convert to 12v later or stay 6v.

The starter does not figure into the cost of a 12v conversion. ..... you need the starter or you could locate a hand crank for it and start it that way.

 

I want to be careful about what I say, there is always 2 sides to the story .... I was not there.

When the old man told you it would be cheaper to convert to 12v ..... my first thought is that man is not qualified to change a light bulb .... let alone rebuild my starter.

You might check other shops in your area if they are available ..... Or go in person, maybe the guy is just a telephone jockey and qualified people busy working ... I dunno

 

Maybe he was confusing the starter with a generator ..... BINGO! That is a big reason why I'm switching to 12v.  My generator needs rebuilt.

Would cost me $200 to rebuild it, no idea if my VR is good I would want to replace it. I had to buy a complete wiring harness, 12v harness is cheaper.

My project truck needs a complete new wiring system, going 12v is cheaper ...... I probably have $200 tied up in my new wiring system.

$60 for a GM alternator $75 for a 12v wiring harness, lots of little incidentals .... I'm at least 1/2 the price of trying to stay all original 6v.