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Battery Cable Size


DrDoctor

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  I‘m afraid I may have gone a bit afar afield for the original topic as introduced by “cruz” – “Hard Starting In Cold Weather...217 Spark Upgrades For Better Starting”. I certainly didn’t intend to dilute the contents of his topic, but I probably did, and I apologize to cruz for that. I’m new to this forum stuff, so sorry to anyone else who may have taken exception. That isn’t an excuse, just an explanation.

   So, that’s why I tho’t it best to start a new topic, based upon my initial question, which was about the size the battery cables should be in our car ('46 Plymouth Special Deluxe Club Coupe). I wish there was a “Reader’s Digest” version, but unfortunately, there isn’t, so I’ll have to present the Encyclopedia Britannica version (sorry . . .): Recapping: it isn't particularly hard starting. however (here’s where I wandered afield . . .), what’s the proper/appropriate gauge cable for the cables from the battery? The car is 6v negative ground. It was that way when we got it. I'm not sure if it was that way originally (altho' I rather doubt it was . . .), if it was switched deliberately (who knows), or if it was switched by accident. In any case, I'm not inclined to switch it back to positive ground. I've rewired is using a Ron Francis "Get It Running" harness, specifically designed for 6v systems. While the gauge of the wiring is smaller, I'm assured by Ron Francis that since the amperage of the individual systems well within the wire's capacity, so it won't be problem, and they've never had anyone report any overloading problems. Also, I went from a single fuse, to a fuse block with several fuses. I have a suspicion the battery cables are 12v cables (as it turns out – they are), and based on what I'm reading here, are most likely too small, and may be restricting sufficient electric flow to the starter. Remarks?????

   Dave72dt replied with the following: 12 v battery cables are typically 4 gauge.  6V cable should be 1, or 0 is even better.  Smaller gauge numbers on wire means heavier wire, 10 gauge being a heavier, thicker wire than 14 or 16 for example, 0 is heavier than 1 gauge.

   I then answered: As a follow-up to your comment re: 1 gauge, or 0 gauge – I’m not sure, but that sounds pretty big to me. However, if that's what it takes, then that's what it takes. Some of questions for you about this, tho' – 1) Approximately how big is that gauge (¼”, ½”); 2) Should those larger cables be between the battery and the solenoid, the solenoid and the starter, or both; 3) Should it also go from the battery ground (negative post, in my case) and the engine (where it is currently); and, 4) Use a covered cable for the ground vs the braided type?

   Dave72dt then provided me the following answers: 1) 1 gauge will be about 1/2 inch in diameter, 0 a bit larger and my personal choice, 00 is about 3/4 inch in diameter; 2) Both; 3) Yes; and 4) Doesn’t need to be, but if you need one made for a specific length, covered would be my choice.  Also doesn’t expose the wire to corrosion.

   Dave72dt – I took the three cables I need to replace with me, and went the auto parts store where I have an account. He confirmed that the ones I had were 4 gauge, as you correctly suspected. He had 000, which is huge! He said they use it in semi-tractors, and heavy construction equipment. I think that’s overkill for my application. He had 2 gauge there, which he’s using in his own 6v car. He doesn’t keep either 1, 0, of 00 gauge, in stock, but can get it in a few days, but the cost was higher than the 2 gauge, since he’ll also have to get the end fittings to fit the larger cable, as well. He also stated that the difference between 2 and 1, or 1 and 0, or 0 and 00, isn’t that dramatic, and the reduction in amperage capacity is negligible. Given the comments from you, and from him, I elected to go with the 2 gauge set-up. Comments???

 

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00 would be best, 01 would be fine

You can got to welding supply stores usually and order the wire by the foot. Is same wire leads that they sell for welding.

And most will have the battery terminal ends available and clamp them on for you.

When it comes to batteries, size does matter.

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   Los_Control, so if I'm understanding you correctly, you're of the opinion that I should go for the 01 gauge at the very least, rather than the 02? I DO agree with you that size does matter. I did think about a welding supply store, but the nearest one to me is over 50 miles (I get my oxy/acetylene welding supplies there, but they deliver anything related to that. They won't deliver wire. And, just to add insult to injury, they only have the wire, and ring-terminal ends, which they'll affix, but they don't have any car battery terminals. So, as much as I'd like to go with them, it turned out to be a dead end, which is why I went to the auto parts store that I've been dealing with for longer than I care to admit to anyone, as I'm older than dirt, and I just don't want to drive that far for the wire. And, even if I did, I'm still left with having to purchase the ends I need (the auto parts store will affix them, and shrink-seal them, too).

   So, now I'm left with nagging concerns - I'll just have to mull all of this over, and let the auto parts guy know what I want to do tomorrow morning . . .

 

   Now, I‘m afraid I may be going a bit afar afield for my own topic, but does anyone know of a decent battery disconnect switch to put in a car with a 6v system that wouldn’t be a source of resistance in the system  as under-sized battery cables would be? Further, should that disconnect switch be located in the power side, or the ground side, of the battery? Many thanks in advance to all responders. Thx . . .

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I have little experience with disconnect switches. I can tell you the one time I have dealt with them, it seems to be made a little on the cheesy side, adds confusion to the equation.

 

My Uncle converted a 6 volt international truck to 12 volt. Honestly he also added a amp gauge under the dash to eliminate the idiot light, the 1956 truck had original.

Well he used to small of wire to run to the new gauge,  This caused the new wire to melt, and short out as it lay on the metal of the steering column, burnt up the regulator in the new 1 wire alternator,  basically created a mess. He added a battery disconect switch to the negative terminal on the battery to stop the battery from draining.

 

While trying to sort this mess out and repair it, I removed the fairly new disconnect switch. It was plated metal and the plating had worn off, it looked like it could be causing corrosion issues with the battery cables. I removed it to eliminate possible connection issues while I worked on the truck repairing it.

Once repaired I offered to put it back on, but the electrical was now fine and no longer needed it. We left it off.

 

To bad you do not have the welding store close by, auto parts store works also. You might also try a tractor suppl store if you have one close.

A lot of the older tractors that are still in use today, are 6 volt.

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   Hmmmm . . . . .  Tractor supply store, now that's an idea, and there's a store not too far from here called Tractor Supply. I was in one a few years ago, and they have all kinds of stuff - yard equipment, fireplace stuff, and I'd venture they'd have something along the line of what I need. MANY Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check them out tomorrow morning.

   As for the battery disconnect - after what you've told me, I think I'll just pass on the switch. Sounds like I'll just be inviting a problem, and goodness knows that life can bring enough of them without going out and requesting them. Again, Many Thanks. Regards . . .  Thx.

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Just to add, the only reason I am suggesting other places like welding store or a tractor supply store, the heavy 00 cable is a standard item.

Cars have not used 00 battery cables in decades. They can get it, but is special order to them, so they will have a special price just for you.

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Have you tried any of the regular Mopar Vendors such as Roberts, Andy Bernbuams.  They do carry the correct sized battery cables and they also have the ends crimped on them.  Try to go onto their webpages to get the prices and with the shipping. They might be just a cheap when considering that you have to travel around to get what you are looking for.

 

Rich Hartung 

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Farm and Fleet, TSC, Big R, and other farm supply stores usually carry 6volt cables in stock. They also have 6volt ground straps by the foot. Buying new cables with molded battery terminals also avoids corrosion prone clamp-on terminals.  It also helps to put a heavy gauge wire from the engine block to the body so your lights and accessories will be able to use the full 6 volts.

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   Fantastic!!!  Great advice from all of you, and I'll be looking into those options. I probably should've delved into this abit deeper before I jumped onto the auto parts store avenue. Oh well, live and learn, and at least I learned before it was too late. Again, to one and all of you, my gratitude for your taking the time to respond with these great suggestions. I really do appreciate it. Thx.

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I happen to work at one of those auto parts stores and we make up those 00 cables on a regular basis.  Stocking 00 or 000 cable is based on your clients.  I'm in a predominately rural area and a lot of farm equipment will use the 00 as well as over the road trucks running 2 or 4 large batteries.  It's the same with stocking 6 v batteries.  Older tractors that are . still in use came with 6 volt batteries so we stock them.  If you're in an area that has little need for the heavier cables or 6v batteries, the stores are not going to be stocking them.

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   We live on the north-Atlantic coast. While we live out in the county, it’s not what one could describe as rural. Getting a 6v battery isn’t too much of a problem, but getting the larger-sized cables is. Further inland, there is some agricultural activity, altho’ not a lot of it. As such, not much older farm equipment around here, either. As for multiple-battery vehicles, I don’t know of any around here, unless you get to the cities, ie: Philly, NYC, DC, Balto. Thx.

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20 minutes ago, TheDoctor'sIn said:

   We live on the north-Atlantic coast. While we live out in the county, it’s not what one could describe as rural. Getting a 6v battery isn’t too much of a problem, but getting the larger-sized cables is. Further inland, there is some agricultural activity, altho’ not a lot of it. As such, not much older farm equipment around here, either. As for multiple-battery vehicles, I don’t know of any around here, unless you get to the cities, ie: Philly, NYC, DC, Balto. Thx.

being costal surrounding I would suggest you look at the local marinas for heavier cable or as mentioned, the local welding supply shops...the big box store is of little use to you at all in this regard..many modern automotive electric shops have gone to the smaller gauge blister pack cables in standard lengths...if that is a problem ole e-bay to the rescue and if color is also a concern...that is also not a problem...just a matter of being a bit proactive very little of this stuff is really that hard to find..

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Positive-Battery-Cable-2-0-AWG-00-Gauge-Ga-Copper-Custom-Made-Auto-Truck-Marine-/131905856172?var=&hash=item1eb633a2ac:m:myo4WxyuXjhvA-Wqa_SEakg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Negative-Battery-Cable-2-0-AWG-00-Gauge-Ga-Copper-Custom-Made-Auto-Truck-Marine-/142082784114?var=&hash=item2114cb3b72:m:mRA9D5edApZ0Ja8368wcflA

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   A live update – I went to a Tractor Supply Company store in a nearby community. They had the three cables I needed in 1-gauge, so that’s what I bought. I visited with the auto parts store near our house, and they weren’t upset by my not pursuing the 2-gauge option. So, all is well here on the north-Atlantic coast. And, as I’ve said before, and it bears repeating – Thanks to all who contributed information. They say that opinions are like certain parts of human anatomy (I’m sure you’ve all heard what anatomical “part” that is . . .). Well, I like to think that the opinion of each one of you is like a certain part of human anatomy – the human heart!!! Warmest personal regards to all, Thx.

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