Brent B3B Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Posted August 22, 2016 I kinda wondered about the springs, but I am a fir tree mechanic at best ( NW version of shade tree) not a clue. Also, came to mind, if i knew the two valves I can't get past 14 were the problem, then I might be able to lower the ones at 18 to 14 a it would be good? Quote
Dave72dt Posted August 22, 2016 Report Posted August 22, 2016 If you can't get it past 14, I suspect the valve face or seat or both is worn badly, possibly burnt. That will also give you that popping if it's just starting to burn. It won't get any better. 14 won't be an issue until it get warmed up well and expansion reduces the clearance. Unless you're working it hard I doubt it will get close enough to close the gap and hold the valve open. 2 Quote
48Dodger Posted August 23, 2016 Report Posted August 23, 2016 Thanks JB, probably going to let that task ride for a while if I can. think i'll just run it and address if/when I need to take the head off again wanted to share something I made to remove the fuel tank sending unit ring. nothing fancy and I know a screwdriver or pliers work but, I had a 8" section of 2-1/4" pipe and tacked on some 1/4" rod to pick up the ring ears/tabs, and drilled a hole through the other end send unit tool (2).JPGsend unit tool (3).JPGsend unit tool (1).JPG I'm going to make this.....cuz you shouldn't be the only one to have one...lol. I'll send you a royalty fee too, cuz I hate it when someone else's hard work is treated like something free! 48D 2 Quote
Brent B3B Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Posted August 23, 2016 If you can't get it past 14, I suspect the valve face or seat or both is worn badly, possibly burnt. That will also give you that popping if it's just starting to burn. It won't get any better. 14 won't be an issue until it get warmed up well and expansion reduces the clearance. Unless you're working it hard I doubt it will get close enough to close the gap and hold the valve open. crap, there is my DUH moment for the day I was so busy looking at the tappet adjuster, didn't even consider the other end of things.... makes sense. when the head comes off again, and I replace the valves, I'm still going to test those springs and look closer at the guides.. I'm going to make this.....cuz you shouldn't be the only one to have one...lol. I'll send you a royalty fee too, cuz I hate it when someone else's hard work is treated like something free! 48D Thanks Man! please start me a "burger" account... i'll collect it next year sometime Quote
JBNeal Posted August 25, 2016 Report Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) additional information - Chrysler Master Tech - Story of Valves this vid echoes lots of information passed on by other members...very informative Edited September 17, 2021 by JBNeal revised link 2 Quote
Brent B3B Posted August 25, 2016 Author Report Posted August 25, 2016 Chrysler Master Tech - Story of Valves this vid echoes lots of information passed on by other members...very informative thanks JB! appreciate it and very informative is right! and comedy...... "Listen my boy, all Mikes muscles tell him when the head is down tight" although i had to watch it twice..... first time I kept thinking "where do I get a hat like that" 1 Quote
Brent B3B Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Posted November 8, 2016 pulled the headliner out to pop out the roof dent this past weekend I was thinking I might try and clean it up and use the expanded metal backing and glue it to the liner to keep the original cardboard .... not sure yet if it will work I was admiring the truck (as I often do ) as it was starting to get dark.... anyone know what are the two drop down sections (above the spare tire mount) are for? I was thinking they were to hold the spare tire in place but I don't see them on my B3B's 1 Quote
Bobacuda Posted November 9, 2016 Report Posted November 9, 2016 (edited) Are there another set of "boxes" like that under the back end of the truck? Those two almost look like brackets for slide-in ramps. Or someone put them there to help steady the spare without having to tighten it all the way up against the frame. Edited November 9, 2016 by Bobacuda Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted November 9, 2016 Report Posted November 9, 2016 That's got to a place to stow strap on ski's for the front wheels......... 1 Quote
Brent B3B Posted November 9, 2016 Author Report Posted November 9, 2016 2 hours ago, Bobacuda said: Are there another set of "boxes" like that under the back end of the truck? Those two almost look like brackets for slide-in ramps. Or someone put them there to help steady the spare without having to tighten it all the way up against the frame. no other set, end of the frame. I looked again tonight and they are riveted in place.... looks factory to me. not really centered with the tire carrier either. I didn't know if it was a B4 thing or a 1 ton thing..... word around the campfire is it was possibly a water truck or something like that before the wood bed was installed in the 70's not sure if that would have anything to do with it or not... Quote
JBNeal Posted November 9, 2016 Report Posted November 9, 2016 If that cross member is bent upwards then them riveted brackets were holding the tire down onto the carrier...their spacing appears to allow for the rim offset 1 Quote
Todd B Posted November 10, 2016 Report Posted November 10, 2016 16 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: Not on my one ton... This one appears to be a dually, maybe that's the difference Quote
Brent B3B Posted November 11, 2016 Author Report Posted November 11, 2016 On 11/9/2016 at 5:47 AM, JBNeal said: If that cross member is bent upwards then them riveted brackets were holding the tire down onto the carrier...their spacing appears to allow for the rim offset so it does...... mystery solved.... just hadn't seen it before. 1 Quote
JBNeal Posted November 11, 2016 Report Posted November 11, 2016 these brackets may have been a B4 update...the duallie wheel offset was different than the one ton single wheel offset...the flatbed I have has the wheel secured with baling wire 1 Quote
Brent B3B Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Posted May 8, 2017 just updating this thread. I have worked this past winter on the brakes, got it stopping, threw the headliner back in and drove the truck to the top of my road a couple times in preparation to drive it onto a trailer and haul it to CA for the BBQ. drove fine onto the trailer to load it (except for it being ALL OVER THE ROAD) towed fine..... but then gave me fits driving it off the trailer and parking it for the show. had a bunch of help trying to figure out the issue/s (many thanks again, guys) I changed the batter cables at the recommendation of Merle. I went to a #00 - I am a fan! this weekend I pulled the head again to replace the valves and test the springs..... I took the springs down to a local "cylinder head shop" and they asked me what the "install height was" (caught me off guard) I showed them the book that said 107 to 115 ft lbs at 1- 3/8" am I missing something or are they just not use to a flathead? Quote
JBNeal Posted May 8, 2017 Report Posted May 8, 2017 I believe the install height has to do with when the spring is seated against the block and valve keeper lock disk with the keepers in place and with the valve seated in the block, which sounds like the 1-3/8" dimension. And I agree, new battery cables yield surprisingly good results after dealing with the headache of high impedance batt.cables 1 Quote
Brent B3B Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Posted May 12, 2017 ok, I cleaned the springs, keepers ect. in "Berrymans" (photo before) I had the cylinder head shop check the spring tension giving him the specs the book calls out at 107-115lbs @1-3/8" and he said mine are100 lbs each. so I went for a second opinion....... the second shop said between 80- 85lbs and gave me some "shims" to add at the block where the valve seats. hard to believe that little thin shim would make the difference......... I am debating adding the shims or just order new springs and hope they are the 107-115lbs.... (open to suggestions) picked up some new valves and asked why the groves on all the old intakes nobody knows but there are theories Quote
JBNeal Posted May 12, 2017 Report Posted May 12, 2017 You could get replacement springs and have them tested for a comparison... I have read that if there is any damage to the spring wire surface, then the springs should be replaced regardless of how much compression force they can withstand. The reasoning was that oxidation from moisture inside the valve chambers (i.e. ambient humidity and condensation), as well as any acidic issues with sludge formations, damages the surface of the spring wire, which can cause weakness in the spring or eventual failure. I recall the surfaces of the springs in the '48 and '49 were not smooth compared with the NORS springs I found on eBay several years ago, and made a mental note to address that. As for the shims, I think they are used to keep the valves from "floating" above the tappets at high rpms by assisting in adding more compression to the spring, a kind of pre-load for lack of a better term 1 Quote
Dave72dt Posted May 13, 2017 Report Posted May 13, 2017 Springs are supposed to have a certain amount of tension at a specific height. That said, every time the valves and seats are ground, that installed height changes as well as various differences in how the spring seats were machined in the head itself. They have been used to "adjust" spring tension as well as adjust installed height. If you were hardcore blueprinting the engine, there's a lot of time and money that could be spent in this area. most of which you'll never see or feel on a stock engine driven the way most of these will be. 2 Quote
Brent B3B Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Posted August 13, 2017 update for all you 2017 BBQ goers (and others interested ) got it running again Thursday night! (still need to fine tune a little) Saturday took it for a test drive to a local car show...... what a blast! thank you everyone who helped work on it at the "Q" and via PM and phone. 6 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 13, 2017 Report Posted August 13, 2017 Congratulations Brent! Sounds pretty good for sure.... That's gotta make you feel good! Quote
Brent B3B Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Posted August 13, 2017 5 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Congratulations Brent! Sounds pretty good for sure.... That's gotta make you feel good! cloud 9 my friend! i do have to reeducate myself on how to drive for sure and defiantly some fine tuning of the carb and steering, etc. and that stinking noisy throw out bearing all baby steps, time and money. Quote
Brent B3B Posted May 24, 2019 Author Report Posted May 24, 2019 Please excuse the vocal content.... I often ramble ? 1 Quote
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