SportaboutSkip Posted May 28, 2016 Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 Hi Everyone, This is my first question on this very interesting web site. I have a 1950 Dodge Wayfarer Sportabout convertible. My father bought this beautiful car from the original owner in the mid fifties. We changed the engine in 1962 because of a broken piston skirt and scored cylinder wall. The replacement engine came from Sears & Roebuck. The car was stored until 1995 and I brought it back to original condition. The rear main seal has always leaked even after 3 changes. Could I be getting the wrong seal? The engine # now is P24 604050. Can anyone tell me what year car this engine is from and is the rear main different from a 1950 Dodge Wayfarer? I also have a separate problem with a differential seal that leaks even after changing and adding miracle in a can that was supposed to stop all leaks. Thank you for your time and knowledge. This car will be a lady if I can fix these 2 problems. I believe the original engine # was D34 111994. Gratefully yours, Skip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted May 28, 2016 Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 p23 is a 53 plymouth 218. That replacement was probably a downgrade from the original 230 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
busycoupe Posted May 28, 2016 Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 The replacement engine is not necessarily a 218. As I understand it, a 218 block can be made into a 230 with the use of the correct connecting rods and crank. My car has a P23 block that has been rebuilt and I am pretty sure it is a 230. The fluid drive unit in my 48 Dodge needs a 230 flywheel to connect to. My engine uses the rear main seal made in two halves that bolt on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted May 28, 2016 Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 The replacement engine is not necessarily a 218. As I understand it, a 218 block can be made into a 230 with the use of the correct connecting rods and crank. My car has a P23 block that has been rebuilt and I am pretty sure it is a 230. The fluid drive unit in my 48 Dodge needs a 230 flywheel to connect to. My engine uses the rear main seal made in two halves that bolt on. You are 100% correct. Only way to know for sure now is to measure the stroke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpollo Posted May 28, 2016 Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 I think it is very likely the engine is a 230. Especially since the fluid drive unit fit. Measuring the stroke is easy if you remove the timing plug over #6 cylinder. Use a welding rod or stiff wire to follow the piston up and down and measure the results. 4 5/8 for a 230 4 3/8 for a 218. There are several rear seals and most are interchangeable . A leak often occurs between the seal halves where the pieces butt together. Removal of the bottom half and judicious addition of silicone will often stop the leak. As for the differential, have you cleaned out the vent? It is part of the bolt which holds the brake line junction to the axle tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 28, 2016 Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 Differential vent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportaboutSkip Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Thank you all for your help. I believe this is a Plymouth 218 1953 block that was rebuilt about 1962. The stroke measures 4 & 5/8 so they must have put an earlier 230 crank in it. The 1953 Plymouth takes a neoprene seal where the older 230 would have taken a rope type seal. Now I have a mismatched crank and block that's why the seal has always leaked since we put this in in 1962. Someone told me this was common practice in the old days of rebuilding in order to make a 230 out of a 218. Does anyone have an solution for my problem to stop this leak? Thank you for yourhelp. Skip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 How bad is the leak. These engines all seem to leak some. Is it gushing or just marking its territory? The oil could also be from other sources like the valve gallery covers and as it blows back gets unto the bell housing making it look like its coming from the crank seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted June 20, 2016 Report Share Posted June 20, 2016 I had a similar problem with my 1941 Plymouth Coupe, it had the original P11 stamped engine so before tearing into it I purchased a rope seal kit..........only then did I discover when I removed the sump and rear main that it had a neoprene seal BUT was missing the little "ears" that fit either side of the seal..........and as the neoprene seal in 2 halves encircles the crank and I couldn't access the upper part I decided to leave each piece there but as I had previously ordered a Best Gasket complete engine seal & gasket set which came with both versions of the neoprene seals so I now had a choice of 3 seals to fit so I installed the correct side "ears' and let it go with that...............it seemed to improve the territory marking that it was prone to however I can't say that it completely fixed it but there was a definite change..........me?........I'd pull the sump and physically view what is exactly there so that you then order the correct replacement..............regards.....andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD luxury liner Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 if it is a rope type seal the rope fiber could swell up has your car been sitting for awhile? if it is not a large leak run it for awhile . if it is a larger leak it might need to looked at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SportaboutSkip Posted July 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 Thank you all for your help! I am now looking for someone to replace the rear main seal in my car. Does anyone know an experienced, competent mechanic in SW Florida. I live in Venice, FL. I have a 1953 Plymouth flathead six engine in a 1950 Dodge Sportabout. Thanks, Skip #9414261211. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted July 3, 2016 Report Share Posted July 3, 2016 (edited) The old rope seals aren't hard to replace. You can buy a "rear main seal removal and installation kit" from NAPA and several other sources to replace it. One part is a screw with a handle you use to screw into the old top seal to pull it out,and the other main part is a "chinese finger" deal that grips the new seal to install it by pushing the collapsed part of the "chinese finger" through and then pulling the new oil-covered top seal into place. In some cases you may have to loosen the main bearing caps a little to get the old seals out and the new ones in,but that's no big deal as long as you remember to tighten them in order and torque them again. I did this several times flat of my back out in the yard when I was a teen,and I was learning as I went along. Just make sure you soak the new seals in oil before installation and that you re-torque everything when you put it all back together. If you haven't already done so,I highly recommend buying a Motor's Manual that covers your car as well as a factory service manual. Both have good,clear photos of a lot of the stages of the work they tell you to do,but sometimes the Motors Manual may have directions that are more geared towards the novice mechanic than a pro-mechanic working at a dealership. Both are on sale on ebay all the time. Edited July 3, 2016 by knuckleharley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkAubuchon Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 they make a new neopreme seal, but I have met one of these beauties that wont marks it territory. Though one wise man once said, if it quits smoking, burning oil or leaking its probably out of OIL!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 On my 1947 Desoto, with a NOS crankshaft, I have changed the seal 3 times in 50K miles. I have tried the seals made by best as well as NOS seals. They all leak, nothing I have done works. It does not leak bad, but it does leak. Sometimes you just have to live with it. One thing I noted is that on the 1946 to 1948 cars they used a different dip stick. If you run it closer to the lower "RUN" line as opposed to the full line it does not leak as much. Also, in 1949 they changed the drip stick markings. No more "Run" line. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Also, in 1949 they changed the drip stick markings. No more "Run" line. James Interesting. There had to have been an engineering reason for this. I wonder what it was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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