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Changing fluid on fluid drive unit


jharring10

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Okay I see the other comment on here I’m not asking about the fluid drive but am trying to find out what plug this is for. There’s little to no oil in it. Do I fill this up? It’s part of the transmission. 
What is the plug I'm asking about on the top left of the transmission case above solenoid.https://content.invisioncic.com/r277599/monthly_2017_09/PICT1207.JPG.1c37c8bcf8fa71e92da910b72c233d01.JPG
 

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Don't mess with that plug.

That top plug is for main oil control valve access. No need to do anything with that.

The oil level/fill plug  is on the passenger side of the trans 1/2 way up. Use 10 weight oil.

Shown is both the Transmission  and Fluid drive Coupling fill locations.

Fluid Drive Fill Location Plugs.jpg

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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  • 8 months later...

To those who say you should never change your fluid drive fluid, I have a question.  What if the fluid smells burnt?  Wouldn't that deplete any anti foaming agents in the fluid and cause cavitation and loss of power?  I don't think Chrysler intended for that fluid to last for over 70 years.  Common sense tells me to change it.  

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If the fluid is  very dark and really burnt smelling change it.

 

New Fluid Drive fluid doesn't smell very good to begin with.

 

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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20 hours ago, ROBERTO ALFARO said:

HI FRIENDS 

ON MY WINDSOR 1947 IS IT POSSIBLE TO OPERATE FLUID DRIVE WITH 12 VOLTS?

 

That's a good question.  My 48 DeSoto is 6 volt and will stay 6 volt.  So maybe someone with experience with changing over to 12 volts can tell you.  

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Best answer is no ...and question why the want to convert to 12V?

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The trend now is to do restomods and make the car as modern as possible.  12 volts, disc brakes, dual MC,  v-8 engine, electronic ignition, fuel injection,  modern interiors, etc.  Those that was to perserve auto history are in the minority now, so I don't even bother to argue with them.  But I agree that some of these mods like disc brakes and seat belts should be considered for safety.  

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Probably because of cranking or starting trouble?

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41 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Probably because of cranking or starting trouble?

 

Not at all. it's because we don't want to be stuck with substandard for the modern era 6v stuff.

 

There are no good 6v headlights.  Don't even bring up the 6v LED junk out there.  If you think those are good just stick with the stock 6v bulbs and keep your money.

 

Some of us want to listen to a radio and not one that only works on AM and uses tubes. 

 

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All hail the great God Safety ,we now exist in a risk averse society ,but to these people I say ,better buy a modern car ,whatever is fitted to our old cars will never ever match the safety or indeed performance of even the worst and cheapest of any modern vehicle. An unpopular view I am sure.

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A lot of people make these old cars more dangerous with some of their upgrades sad to say.

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59 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

Name one.

That would be stupid of me to post names....Dah.

There would be no winners anyway and who cares.

Let's move on Sniper.

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20 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

That would be stupid of me to post names....Dah.

There would be no winners anyway and who cares.

Let's move on Sniper.

Talking about the upgrades you think are worse, not the people involved. 

 

Maybe it's not the upgrade per se, but rather the quality of the work.

 

Which is relevant to any endeavour, keeping it stock or upgrading it and not the task but the craftsmanship (or lack thereof).

 

In which case we have no disagreement.

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I'm with Sniper on this one.  If you live where I live and want to drive your car more than the "Sunday drive," certain upgrades are almost a requirement.  I would love to see a list of upgrades that made things worse aside from personal preference or shoddy work....

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8 hours ago, Sniper said:

Talking about the upgrades you think are worse, not the people involved. 

 

Maybe it's not the upgrade per se, but rather the quality of the work.

 

Which is relevant to any endeavour, keeping it stock or upgrading it and not the task but the craftsmanship (or lack thereof).

 

In which case we have no disagreement.

It's  the the work and the quality of the parts that makes some of these safety driving upgrades below par.

I have done a lot of higher end restoration/repair work and have had to remove/ replace back to stock brakes and some boosters on a few mid 50's to early sixties MoPars as the owners thought disc brake upgrades with off the shelf parts std common brake parts worked great.... but actually did not.

Very few people today really know how a really good original late 40's thru 50's MoPar car drove back in the day.

The replacement parts today for the old  MoPars are are of pretty poor quality and don't function correctly as did the original asbestos linings.

Sometimes new old car hobbiests  just getting into their old car are having fun putting back together their old car project...they look online and almost instantly find a guaranteed great what ever  upgrade to make that old car drive like a new car with half the effort and cost....no not always true.

They do the install wrong and or the parts are inferior and in their mind ...wow what an improvement they think..and they don't have a clue if it even did improve the car.

They just do it and say well that's 100% better and on to the next improvement with some other online kit and many times funky junk parts.

Cutting up and off frames...dangerous welding...poor quality parts...seen it all.

No old car will ever be even close to drivingHandling as safe and easy as any modern car.

I'M not saying all upgrades are bad but in my past job I've seen way too many sub par old car up grades...

Hated fixing some of those jobs.

 

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Getting back to the question of Fluid Drive and 12 volts: probably the typical naming confusion of the Fluid Drive coupling and the Prestomatic semi-automatic. The Fluid Drive uses no electric, of course, so it doesn't care. But the transmission? Maybe it would work for a short while before something burnt out. Probably easier to engineer a separate 6 volt supply for that circuit. 

 

Now, I'm in the group that feels 6 volts is A-okay. I've run several vehicles with it and had no trouble. If your car won't start on 6, won't charge on 6, you have an electrical problem and it's reparable...and a whole lot easier than changing everything out so that now nothing stock will work in your car anymore. On the other hand, if you're going restomod with major upgrades, why stick with that transmission? Just my thoughts.

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  • 11 months later...

Hi All.  I have a gyromatic in my 1950 Dodge Coronet.  It shift up and down correctly but very hard.  There is very hard CLANK when it up shifts.  When it down shifts just the normal like click-clack.  And thoughts about what the issue might be??

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  • 1 year later...

Hi There, I am new to owning a 48 DeSoto i received from my late uncle. I am trying to figure out where the fluid drive unit drain/filler plug is located? I have scoured the internet trying to find a video on how to check the fluid drive unit fluid and cant find it anywhere. any help would be greatly appreciated. 

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Sandy,

One must own a Service Manual, if one is serious about working on these old girls. They are almost "Christine" like.

The Service Manual will walk you through every question you may have. Someone has posted a picture above with the place to add Fluid.

One must know how to tap the starter to position the plug to the fill opening. Using ISO 32 probably, but once again if it is full just plug it back.

If it ain't leaking or broke don't fix it. Does you Odometer run backwards like mine and "Christine's"? LOL.

Tom

 

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