Door handle disassembly question

[rockable]

The exterior door handles and the trunk handle on my 41 Plymouth are crimped to the square drive shaft. I need to diassemble these to get them rechromed. How do I disassemble them and how do I put them back together afterwards?

It appears there is a brass sleeve between the steel crimped shell and the square shaft. Does anyone sell these parts?

Thanks for your help!

Edited January 23, 2016 by rockable

[desoto1939]

I have the same style handle on my 39 Desoto and in all of my years I have not found the parts that you are looking for in your post.  About 20 years ago at the Fall Carlise swap meet I had meet a vendor who was from the south if I remember he name was Cleitus  Kennedy and was in a little scooter because he could not walk.  He stated that he had the parts but would not sell them.  I know that Cleitus is no longer alive so I do not know if anyone has the parts.  You might have to chrome the handles with these parts still on the handle.

 

Rich Hartung 

desoto1939@aol.com

[suntennis]

The shell on a 52 car is indented in two places on the shaft for the handle. What I did was file the indented area with a rotary file and or a round file to remove a fair amount of metal but not removing all the metal in the dented area. Did this to both indented areas of a handle then with channel lock pliers twisted the shell on the shaft. If you can twist the shell you will be able to work it off the shaft. To assemble you just force the shell on the shaft to the original location and with a punch dent the shell in the areas where the low spots are on the handle shaft.

[Plymouthy Adams]

having I carefully removed and reinstalled these retainers many years ago on a set of handles for the 52 Plymouth here at the house,,,on my 48 coupe I have found an easier more effective method to effect his repair...please PM me if interested..

[desoto1939]

Plymouth Adams, If you have an easy method to replace the metal swage on the handle can you post this on the forum or even in the technical section/

 

 

Rich Hartung

[Andydodge]

Or just post it on this thread........I have a worn out trunk handle on my Dodge that needs this info..........lol..........andyd 

[Dodgeb4ya]

To easily remove the "bell" retaining tubular collar off the trunk or door handles I use sharp teeth channel lock pliers and turn the collar 90 degrees and work/pull it straight off.

 

There are two depressions on this collar and by turning it 90 degrees it will not damage the depressions. Then you can re use the collar as is.

You can use a piece of say 4-6" of proper sized tube to tap the collar back on if the square handle shaft is still on the handle. The installer tube should push on the flared bell portion. The two depressions should line up so they will fit back down into the two handle depressions.

 

The one thing to make the sure the handle fits /feels right is the be sure there is some tension on the "wave" washer that is under the bell collar after pushing on the bell collar. Even re-squeezing the two depressions sometimes will still not hold the bell properly with tension against the wave washer keeping the handle from looseness and rattling.

 

So I apply a small amount of JB Weld quick to the inside of the collar and mating shaft area to make sure the bell collar will not come off ....that way I don't have to be too concerned about how good the two depressions are engaged into the two handle slot depressions. I let the repair sit 24 hours before use.

 

With the square shaft removed ( not all that hard to do) from the handle it's easier and you can use a deep socket  to push the bell collar on and slightly crush the wave washer using a vise with jaw protectors. You need to push the collar on just enough to slightly crush the washer and hold it down using a vise and tube or socket when using JB Weld.

 

I have found it difficult to re-crush the two squeeze spots properly and tight enough to make the handle feel and operate like new. The bell collar seems to always pop back  about twenty thousands.... enough so the handle still wobbles and is loose. Lightly Lube the handle after the repair in the shaft and washer area before the install.

 

I did make a tool to do these handles so it would be a quick repair. I can squeeze the depressions too if need be but really don't need too if the bell collar is good.

Bob

 

[rockable]

Thanks, everyone. I got them off. Now I have to find a plater that won't screw them up.

[knuckleharley]

Thanks, everyone. I got them off. Now I have to find a plater that won't screw them up.

I've had real good luck in the past with Hanlon Plating in Richmond,Va. Two brothers own and run it.

 

Haven't had them chrome anything in the last few years,though.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have not dealt with Hanlon since the father left the business to the kids...not many chrome shops do pot metal well...just to much effort in a repeated multi process goes into the finishing or to much metal removed and lost of definition in prepping it for plating. I can say my friend and I never got a piece lost when sent to them..this is a recurring nightmare for some shops..do an online search on any shop you are considering.

[dale]

I just re-installed the handles on my 1946 Plymouth.. Iverson Automotive in Minnetonka, Minnesota did a perfect job for $150 per handle. I did grind out the depressions holding on the collar and was unable to crimp them back on after turning them 90 degrees so used gorilla glue to glue them back. Pushed them tight after the glue hardened some and they are nice and tight now.

Edited January 26, 2016 by dale

[Dodgeb4ya]

Why did you grind out the depressions?

The bell will turn and pull off with a strong hand and a pair of good pliers and retain the bump depressions for re-use upon installation.

The adhesive is good too.

[knuckleharley]

I have not dealt with Hanlon since the father left the business to the kids...not many chrome shops do pot metal well...just to much effort in a repeated multi process goes into the finishing or to much metal removed and lost of definition in prepping it for plating. I can say my friend and I never got a piece lost when sent to them..this is a recurring nightmare for some shops..do an online search on any shop you are considering.

Hanlon was still doing pot metal the last time I was up there,but wouldn't guarantee it would polish out because of  all the air pocket holes you find when you start polishing it.

 

I had them do the bumpers and a few other parts for my 48 Plymouth,and was very happy with the work. Especially at the price they gave me.

 

Nowadays,if you want pot metal chromed,you pretty much have to send it to a plater that advertises they specialize in pot metal.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Hanlon was still doing pot metal the last time I was up there,but wouldn't guarantee it would polish out because of  all the air pocket holes you find when you start polishing it.

 

I had them do the bumpers and a few other parts for my 48 Plymouth,and was very happy with the work. Especially at the price they gave me.

 

Nowadays,if you want pot metal chromed,you pretty much have to send it to a plater that advertises they specialize in pot metal.

the exact reason I wrote what I did...pot metal is not a one and done deal..it requires special attention..

[dale]

I ground out the depressions because I didnt think they would come loose without doing this. I didnt want to wreck them but if they will come loose without grinding them so much the better.

[DJ194950]

From what I have Read on plating pitted pot metal parts- They do grind out any corrosion in the the pit- copper plate the part- heat and fill pit with lead-sand level-copper plate again- buff- nickel plate- chrome plate-buff!  Long and expensive process!!

 

Hence the high cost! 

 

Why not Most high production shops do not do this or have the expertise,  even if they wanted to.

 

Usually best to let the plater do the work-start to finish- Again from what I have read. 

 

Best,

 

DJ

[dale]

The plater who did mine said he had to separate the SS piece from the pot metal not only because of the prep involved but also dis-similar metals in the plating process. Make sure to take them apart yourself before sending the pot metal handles out.

[knuckleharley]

From what I have Read on plating pitted pot metal parts- They do grind out any corrosion in the the pit- copper plate the part- heat and fill pit with lead-sand level-copper plate again- buff- nickel plate- chrome plate-buff!  Long and expensive process!!

 

Hence the high cost! 

 

Why not Most high production shops do not do this or have the expertise,  even if they wanted to.

 

Usually best to let the plater do the work-start to finish- Again from what I have read. 

 

Best,

 

DJ

The big reason most platers don't want to do pot metal is so many customers bring or send it in,and have no freaking clue it will be any harder to do than flat steel. Then they want to bitch about the cost once it is done. Who wants to spend all that time creating a quality product,and then have to listen to all that crap from someone ignorant of the process?

 

The platers can just look at stuff like bumpers and give you an accurate price. Nobody can do that with pot metal parts. Especially Mopar pot metal parts,which have to be some of the sorriest castings in the world. Sometimes you get lucky and don't hit major air pockets that will have to be filled,but most of the time you are not going to be that lucky.

[Roadkingcoupe]

The door handle retainer sleeve is made of a soft pliable metal.

The two indentations are removed by twisting the collar back and forth at 90 degrees intervals.

This motion will smooth out the indentations and the sleeve comes right off.

Installation is even easier, Just slip the collar on and use a chisel to gently make the indentations in the collar at the appropriate location.

No secret, no need to PM.

 

The issue of pot metal is interesting!

I have examples of pot metal items (ie. horn rings) where a cross section view shows that the metal is "decaying" or rotting from the inside out.

It looks like a blackish chalky material disintegrating from the inside out. Sometimes the chrome plating is literally holding the item together.

Once the plater strips the chrome plating from the pot metal it breaks or falls apart.

 

The owner is NEVER happy when the chrome shop calls to explain the "deceased" part and the owner complains that the shop doesn't know what they are doing!

Many good or smart chrome shops will not work with 75 year old pot metal parts as it creates a lot of grief for both sides.

Personally I understand the problem and don't blame the shop and would be wary of a cavalier shop that doesn't understand the possible inner decay.

[DonaldSmith]

With 3D printers, could a part be scanned and a model be made, for casting a new part?  Of course, this is way beyond my expertise or budget.  Jay Leno could probably get it done.  I saw an episode where he was showing a 3D printer at work.  One can dream.

[dale]

I have a usable collar if anyone needs one. Ill send it to a member free of charge to help.

[tollertdi]

Anyone know how to take off the stainless steel molding hooked to the handle on a '48?

[Plymouthy Adams]

48 what...if a Plymouth..it is not stainless....

[Roadkingcoupe]

Anyone know how to take off the stainless steel molding hooked to the handle on a '48?

 

If you mean the "belt molding" section attaches to the handle on a 1948 Plymouth it is stainless steel.

Pretty sure it comes off with the collar that this thread is discussing.

Edited February 1, 2016 by Roadkingcoupe

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have many set of these handles where the P15 handle bases (bezel) that is shape to that of the belt line molding and none are stainless...they are chrome plated...I wish they were stainless...