my48stake Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 My son didn't realize that the drivers side wheel lug nuts and studs were left hand thread and twisted one off my '48 B1D. Any idea where I can get new studs and nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Davey Posted November 28, 2015 Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Have you tried any of the vendors listed under Resources/Links/vendors on the header bar at the top of the page? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my48stake Posted December 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Okay, tried the vendors on the resource links page and no luck. Also checked the local bolt & screw distributor with no luck. The only thing I've found is through LMC Truck et. al. who have stud kits for Chevy and Ford of this era but I don't know if they're the same. Any other suggestions before I roll the dice on a Ford or Chevy set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil363 Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/558-br-277-lug-bolt-lh-each.html Not sure if these are the correct ones for your '48 B1D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mlindblom Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Napa online says these are for a 1948 b1d. http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsDetail.aspx?k=NDP6411554_0500118039 However I own a p23 so I'm not too sure. Vpw looks like a good bet too. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/13wheels.pdf I'm sure the truck guys will steer you in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts/558-br-277-lug-bolt-lh-each.html Not sure if these are the correct ones for your '48 B1D Napa online says these are for a 1948 b1d. http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsDetail.aspx?k=NDP6411554_0500118039 However I own a p23 so I'm not too sure. Vpw looks like a good bet too. http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/13wheels.pdf I'm sure the truck guys will steer you in the right direction. Those are both lug bolts for 1/2 ton trucks only. He is looking for studs for a 1 ton truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank's 49 Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 ???? the original question asked about studs and nuts? Not on a Dodge.. they use bolts and threaded drums. If he has broken a bolt off in the drum, then he has more problems than just getting a new bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Only the 1/2 ton trucks used lug bolts. The 3/4 ton trucks, and larger, have lug studs with nuts. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my48stake Posted December 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Only the 1/2 ton trucks used lug bolts. The 3/4 ton trucks, and larger, have lug studs with nuts. Merle Correct... need studs and nuts on my 1 ton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mlindblom Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/13wheels.pdf I believe this link has what your looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 make sure and ask for the correct diameter of stud. my B3B had the right side with the studs I can only guess they are smaller diameter than the 3/4 or 1 ton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 Take a good look at the condition of the drums before getting excited about studs and nuts. Drums in good condition for the 1 tons are extremely hard to come by. Jeff B did some work on his drums fitting new studs since new exact replacements may not and didn't seem to be available at the time. If you find the need to rework drums to get good studs, might as well do it on drums you can use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my48stake Posted December 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 The drums are in great shape. My sons just damaged the studs turning them the wrong way (didn't realize they were left hand thread on the drivers side.) I'll give the powerwagon folks a call after Christmas and see if they have the right size. Thanks everyone for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 If you're going to beat or press the old studs out of the hub/drum, make sure that you support the drum from the inside around the stud that you're removing. These can be so stubborn to remove that you can damage collapse the drum. I sold one to a member on here a couple of years ago. When I needed rear studs on mine, NAPA wasn't able to come up with an exact match. I bought a box of studs that had the round flange head w/o the cutaway to fit around the inner hub and had to grind the cutout into the head of each stud. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My48projectB1c Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Having the same problem now did you ever find a solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Can't say for certain on 1 tons but my 3/4 ton had 9/16" studs originally. 9/16" studs were not available from any source. I ended up getting 5/8" studs and bored out the holes in the wheels. I believe Dorman was the source I ended up using. Was a PITA but it all worked out. Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris Bolstad Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 I had same need - left threaded studs. 1 ton hubs/studs very hard to find. I found hub with studs at Wildcat Auto https://www.wildcatmopars.com/ my hub was better than Wildcat's so i had studs pressed out and put in my hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) I studied the parts manual, and it appears the B-1 lug studs and lug nuts were revised, as were the hubs...There is a part number break for the B-2s, and the B-2 parts truck I have is similar to the B-1s I have. My B-3 has different sized lug studs and lug nuts. Searching the internets, I found these possible replacement parts for the later parts that should be readily available: Lug Stud, Left: Mopar 1273555 Budd 67459 Lug Stud, Right: Mopar 1273554 Budd 67458 Lug Nut, Left: Mopar 1273557 Budd 67148 Lug Nut, Right: Mopar 1273556 Budd 67147 I spoke with a sales rep at Van Horn Truck Parts about the availability of the LH stud, and he said that there are 20 on his shelf and 1700 at his supplier...how'bout that Edited February 28, 2019 by JBNeal updated info 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) On 2/24/2019 at 2:20 PM, Jeff Balazs said: Can't say for certain on 1 tons but my 3/4 ton had 9/16" studs originally. 9/16" studs were not available from any source. I ended up getting 5/8" studs and bored out the holes in the wheels. I believe Dorman was the source I ended up using. Was a PITA but it all worked out. Jeff my one ton were/are 5/8" studs just to make it more confusing, (cause that's what I do ) I replaced my bias tires with radials and needed the longer 2-1/2" studs in the rear. (found at my local "ma & pops" auto parts) (5 o'clock = original stud, 9 o'clock =2" stud, 11 o'clock = 2-1/2" stud) I looked for 2-1/2" reverse threads and didn't find any at the time. so I just clipped the heads like Mike mentioned and ground down the "nubbin" (shhh, don't tell anyone) Edited August 23, 2020 by Brent B3B Spelling 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 1 hour ago, Brent B3B said: my one ton were/are 5/8" studs Your secret is safe here on the internet........lol. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted February 27, 2019 Report Share Posted February 27, 2019 You're my hero Brent....I won't say nubbin to nobuddy about what you did. 48Dubbin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 28, 2019 Report Share Posted February 28, 2019 I did some checking, saw some things, re-read the parts manual, and looks like I need to do more research. I recalled having a conversation back in 2003 with an old parts guy who filled me in on the difficulty of replacing the busted LH stud on my '49. He said that style of stud had a smooth shank and required a special tool to set the heads so they would lock in place. I went to pull a drum off my '48 parts truck, but they will need more persuading during daylight hours. I compared lugnuts, and they are not the same. Measuring stud diameters, the early studs are 9/16", the later studs are 5/8". So it looks like I'll need to pop out that busted stud to figure out the dimensions of the B-1 hub and the stud...but at least I found a source that might be helpful 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 I had to get out The Persuader to pop the drum off of the shoes it was hanging up on, but eventually wiggled it off and cleaned around one of the studs...I could then see the factory staking of the stud that I had heard about. I rigged a tool to hold the hub so the press could pop out the stud without damaging the drum. And POP it did as I pumped up that press jack until that stud broke loose...had to press it all the way out, and examining the hub bore, it was as clean as the stud shank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 The stud has two impressions on each side of the shank, I am unsure if a special punch is used to hammer over part of the hub though as I could not see any marking on the hub face. The clipped head seats against a surface on the hub so that looks like that would hold the stud from rotating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted March 2, 2019 Report Share Posted March 2, 2019 The hub stud bore averaged 0.624". The stud shank diameter averaged 0.623" at its maximum, and the length is about 13/16". The stud length is about 2-1/8". I reckon the tight shank fit means to me that each stud was carefully pressed in. Now I clearly see how later B-series have a different stud that does not supercede the earlier production...later studs and nuts could possibly fit the early hubs if the hub stud bores are opened up to 0.626", which is easier said than done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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