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Posted (edited)

depends on the amount of rust and how much you get for scrap weight per pound...minus the handling and cost to transport to the salvage yard...

 

worth is condition/location no matter the product 

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted (edited)

Well steam cleaned, wire wheel, phosphoric acid, primer, and two coats of paint. I wanted to place the engine today but this takes a bit of time. Six hours in the shop is enough for today. Once I have the front back together, I will turn the car around so that the front is out of the shop when we fix that horn. Shops can burn!

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Edited by pflaming
Posted (edited)

I picked this tool up at a swap meet in Maine for $2.00. I recall there was another one should have picked it also. My coil has 2" cut off and it is tight. I hate to think the amount of pressure a stock length coil would have.

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Edited by pflaming
Posted (edited)

for safety do use these in pairs as they can and will kick out....for the very random use these get in the average home garage, Harbor Freight ones had lasted me many years and many strut changes...well worth the money but would not turn them over to a gorilla fisted shop mechanics working for minimum wage...and never loan them out...I did it once they came back " gorillaized "

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

Check your local parts house.  Often they have a rental program for occasional use specialized tools such as that..

  • Like 1
Posted

I rented a center pull compression tool. One side is together the other nearly so. This task is not for the faint of heart! Question, you will note a rubber bumper atop the frame, how is that installed and when?

Will now take lunch and " finish" after that.

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Posted

I rented a center pull compression tool. One side is together the other nearly so. This task is not for the faint of heart! Question, you will note a rubber bumper atop the frame, how is that installed and when?

Will now take lunch and " finish" after that.

post-34-0-48267200-1467921285_thumb.jpeg

Posted

I rented a center pull compression tool. One side is together the other nearly so. This task is not for the faint of heart! Question, you will note a rubber bumper atop the frame, how is that installed and when?

Will now take lunch and " finish" after that.

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don't you have a floor jack?

Posted

But for a few details, like the sway bar, the suspension is done. I put the engine in place. It's still hanging on the hoist. Will mount it tomorrow.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Pics show he does but thinks the brake drum is the place to put it under? Not my choice for jack placement!

 

Others thoughts on this?

 

DJ

Posted

don't you have a floor jack?

Without an engine in place, there may not have been enough weight to hold the frame down  sufficiently to compress the spring enough to connect the spindle to the control arms.  Using the spring compressor was the safer way to do it.

Posted

Dave is correct, the floor Jack did not begin to compress that coil. I used an inside the coil compression tool. Was not an easy task, possibly easier with the engine in, and my coil is 13.5 inches tall. I can't imagine putting in a new 16" coil. Now I'm trying to find which Cherokee anti sway bar some use. Any suggestions on that? Is that an improvement, if so, in what way?

Posted (edited)

Next, rear engine mounts then a lot of things to connect. This motor cycle would look good in our trucks! post-34-0-38986300-1468029114_thumb.jpegpost-34-0-81485100-1468029130_thumb.jpegpost-34-0-72298400-1468029157_thumb.jpegpost-34-0-15308300-1468029506_thumb.jpeg

Edited by pflaming
Posted

Would love to see you in a video riding the motorcycle!!

 

Training wheels?

 

DJ

Posted

Hey, I grew up on quarter and thoroughbred horses. Motorcycles was what the city kids rode, if the weather was good!

Posted

Woolsworth's rides were ponies! Gotta know your horses, but I reckon hard to distinguish one from the other when you are never on the lead horse!

Posted (edited)

Getting organized and studying the EZ installation instructions. Tomorrow I select the wires required for what I want. There are many more wires than what I need so I must select and delete extras. EZ says to anticipate some future need(s), keep and tuck those wires. Seems to be more of a delicate task than an intellectual one.

To be continued.

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Edited by pflaming
Posted

Looks like the Chef is back at it.........making spaghetti this time. :rolleyes: There has to be about 4 times more wire there than you will need. Be sure you securely cap off the ends you don't use or the smoke will leak out.

 

Jeff

Posted

SMOKE can leak out??

This kit is an over kill kit for my car, possibly could have used the $135.00 kit. I went with a kit to increase the car's value. I would hesitate to buy a home wired car unless it came with a very good schematic. This kit includes such things as turn signal dash indicators, door locks, etc. and column turn signal wiring. I have a Signal Stat 900. I may research that column set up. Maybe my '54 Belvedere model part's car has such. This '53 is a Plaza model.

P.S. Jeff, I will also put a smoke detector in the car. TKS for the tip.

  • Like 1
Posted

Paul;

I figured you must be expanding your culinary skills. There is a series called "Project Smoke" you might enjoy if you are heading in that direction......... :D

Have fun and try not to burn your fingers.

Jeff

Posted (edited)

I spent the morning routing the harness then separating out individual locations. Next is to do this with the dash and steering wheel hub turn signals.

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Edited by pflaming

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