water tubes not the same!

[White Spyder]

I have had an issue with my car tending to run hot according to the temp guage.  I used a laser tem monitor to check the head and the temps near the rear cylnders were 20+ degrees hotter than in the front of the engine.  Temps here have been in the mid 90's and after a 30 minute drive the guage in the dash was showing over 200.  So, i got a new water tube, thermostadt, and appropriate gaskets from Andy B's.  Great guys and were helpfull when ordering.

 

Drained and removed the radiator, removed the t'stat housing and water pump.  Used the home made slide hammer to get the tube out and poped the welch plug on the driver side.  The tube did have grit on it and a partial blockage of the next to last opening.  The mud coming out of the bottom of the engin was not bad.

 

Now, my delima.  Went to put the new tube in and it would only go in a little over 1/3 of the way.  I set them next to each other and there are some obvious differances.

 

 

I like the fact that the new tube has larger openings for better water flow but it is thicker. I put a micrometer to both.

 

Old

 

New

 

I also mesured at eash opening and the differances are noatable.

 

My question is, has my old one deteriated that much or is there a manufacturing/part error on the new one?  I will be checking with Andy B. in the morning as well.

 

TIA

Edited July 26, 2015 by White Spyder

[stan's52]

I think you are only dealing with .075 difference in thickness. If it were mine I would start squeezing it until it fit the opening. I wonder how clean the engine block is in parts you can't see. I never liked to use any cleaning solution, but you may try to do some water system cleaning if you still have a heating problem, with the new tube. Stan

[desoto1939]

I have a 39 Desoto and I have two wd tubes 1 is brass and theother is solid brass.  I took measurements at each opening and both have the same thickness. 

 

Starting at the back and working forward this is what I have on my mic  11/32, 25/64, 25/64,25/64, 27/64, 27/64, 17/32.  I took my mic and but in on the flast side or the bottom and madw sure the unit was resting against the flat side or the base of the tube.

 

Hope this helps with you issue.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[White Spyder]

Here are the measurements I have from the fron of the engine at each opening

Old tube. .493 .447 .450 .440 .431 .427 .436

New tube. .601 .524 .523 .491 .422 .422 .411

[dwest999]

I just replaced my water distribution tube a couple of months ago and had the same issue. What we did was simple squeeze the new tube together just a bit and it finally went in.... Before doing that the exact same thing happened where we'd get the tube in about 1/3 of the way and it would bind up...

[Bingster]

Where are we getting these tubes?

[Dodgeb4ya]

CHINA?  

[Conroe Powdercoating]

im just surprised his old one came out easily

[greg g]

Here is a theory you might want to think about.  Looking at the tube, where are the slots directing water (don't think distribution)?

Was your old tube flush to the sides of the casting is slides into or was there a gap around it?  If the new tube is tight to the casting into which it fits, how does coolant reach the areas of the channel into which the tube fits?  My theory is that the original tube was designed to to two things one of which is probably more important than the other.  The slots in the top pf the tube are positioned to provide coolant to be directed toward the bottom of the valve seat areas and then to flow off around the tube and back into general circulation.  This is critical to good valve health.  Especially the exhaust valve which only gets cooled when in contact with the seat.  My theory is that the tube is supposed to split the flow some allowed to go through the casting in the block and the other portion through the tube to be divided between and directed toward the valve seat areas.  Like heating system is large spaces where the duct and vents start out large, and get smaller toward the end of the run assures that flow / pressure remain useful from beginning to end of the run.  If your tube is tight to the side of the casting and no coolant is allowed to by pass it where does the cooling come from for the length of the chamber?

[White Spyder]

Andy B. Is sending another tube to me to try.

[White Spyder]

Got the replacement tube and it is the same as the first that was sent. Tried to do some modification with a big vice but the base where the metal overlaps prevents narrowing the tube enough to fit. I have ordered another from vintage power and hope it will be a better fit.

[Lloyd]

I just replaced my water distribution tube a couple of months ago and had the same issue. What we did was simple squeeze the new tube together just a bit and it finally went in.... Before doing that the exact same thing happened where we'd get the tube in about 1/3 of the way and it would bind up...

I did get mine from Vintage Power Wagons and dont recall having any problems but I would agree with dwest, squeeze it and put it in.

[White Spyder]

I did get mine from Vintage Power Wagons and dont recall having any problems but I would agree with dwest, squeeze it and put it in.

Did squeeze it until the overlaps came together. Didn't fit. I will wait to see about the one from Vintage Power.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Some old car parts dealers sell replacement poor quality parts that need to go to the scrap pile not on a car..

They will keep selling them as long as they can still make a profit off them.

I see it every week.

VPW parts are good.

[Tatback]

I bought a brass one off of eBay and it fit great, very gentle tapping with a rubber mallet and it slid right it. I can post a screen shot of the exact one I got with seller name if anyone would like. It came very well packaged and fast.

[deathbound]

Here's a brass tube for the long blocks (which I believe you have), though not cheap, it is NOS.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/37-38-39-40-41-42-46-47-48-49-50-68-L6-Brass-Water-Distribution-TUBE-NOS-MoPar-/140768281185?hash=item20c6718261&vxp=mtr

 

FWIW, I put a brass tube in my U.S. Plymouth.

[Tatback]

Here's a brass tube for the long blocks (which I believe you have), though not cheap, it is NOS.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/37-38-39-40-41-42-46-47-48-49-50-68-L6-Brass-Water-Distribution-TUBE-NOS-MoPar-/140768281185?hash=item20c6718261&vxp=mtr

FWIW, I put a brass tube in my U.S. Plymouth.

That is the exact same one I bought. The price may be steep but after getting it and seeing it and the packaging, I'd do it again.

[White Spyder]

The delimna continues! Got the new tube in from Vintage Power and it must be acquired from the same supplier. It was a tad thinner by the micrometer but still would not fit. Arrrrrrgh!! I have also noted that these new tubes are taller towards the radiator end of the tubes.

Now the question. I have been able to use a vice and dead blow hammer to get a tube that will go in the head up to the last 3 inches. With medium taps from a dead blow hammer I can get it in another 2. Should I now reall drive the last inch or so taking the chance that it might not go all the way in and get really stuck?

What to do?

[Don Coatney]

Be it right or wrong I liberally coated my distribution tube with never-seze when I installed it. I did have to tap it in the last few inches.

[casper50]

when I rebuilt my 230, what I believe to be the original wdt came right out and went back all the way in without having to tap it at all.

[White Spyder]

Went to my fabricator and had him tack weld the couple of small holes. Cleaned it up and it went back in.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Well I guess there are not any NORS or NOS proper fit WD tubes available thru the well known big boy sellers of old MoPar parts.

They sell what they can have made or buy cheap.... improper fitting parts from you know where hoping it won't come back.

 

It's going to be harder and harder to get good quality parts for our old MoPar cars and trucks.

[White Spyder]

Well I guess there are not any NORS or NOS proper fit WD tubes available thru the well known big boy sellers of old MoPar parts.

They sell what they can have made or buy cheap.... improper fitting parts from you know where hoping it won't come back.

 

It's going to be harder and harder to get good quality parts for our old MoPar cars and trucks.

I would have to agree, but is it the fault of the companies that are trying to keep these parts available? I think not. We need to return parts that do not work. So far both of the companies that I have gotten WDT from have been very helpful. Both very willing to accept returns and even pay the return shipping. I have supplied them with the measurement and photos of the differences. I can only hope that they I turn work with the manufacture to improve products for the future. I applauded them for helping us keep our cars on the road.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Thats good to hear the parts sellers treat you well on returning items.

I hope they can solve the problem of inferior fitment and quality of parts by closely working with those companies manufacturing and distributing these old car replacement parts.

[De55]

Hi, I just joined this site. I had a similar problem with my '51 Desoto.

Bought a tube from Bernbaum and they first sent the smaller tube, I think for Plymouth or Dodge?

They re-sent the bigger tube but it did not fit at all. They were good about taking both back by the way.

I then found a place called "Then and Now" in Weymouth, Massachusetts. I explained my problem and they new the differences

in the two sizes of tubes and they had a quality old stock tube on the shelf! It slid right in with just a slight tapping

the last inch or so. I have no affiliation with "Then and Now", but I find them very knowledgeable about these cars and very helpful.

And they will ship anywhere. Hope this helps.

Good to be on this site, I'm sure I will have a lot of questions as I work on my car.