ledfootslim Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) Well, my 15 year old beater-car broke down a while ago, so Lady Grey is my daily for the time being, which I love! It means that anyone who rides with me doesn't have a choice about what we drive, even if we have to leave earlier and plan the trip a little more to compensate for a seventy year old car's speed and other limits. I am really getting a better handle on driving the old lady, but I am still having a little trouble at take-offs. If I try to start in high-range it will almost always sputter and die if I don't accelerate as slowly as possible, just barely rolling along. I'm not trying to drag-race or anything, but it makes it very difficult to pull onto any kind of highway etc. So what are some of the things that could cause this? I have tried many alterations in timing, and it seems to do best at about 10 bdc. The head was shaved about ninety thousands to eliminate warp, so the compression should be higher than stock by a bit. Should this mean I should retard the timing a little more? Thanks in advance for the help, and hope everyone had a great Independence Day! Edited July 5, 2015 by ledfootslim Quote
P15-D24 Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 Is the accelerator pump working correctly? When you hit the gas you should see a steady stream of fuel going down the carb throat. Quote
ledfootslim Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Posted July 5, 2015 Is the accelerator pump working correctly? When you hit the gas you should see a steady stream of fuel going down the carb throat. Yep, its squirting good. I think the carburetor is doing good. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 when was the last time this car was truly 'tuned up' timing set and internals of the mechanical advance of the points in the distributor verified...? Quote
greg g Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) If you have good initial throttle response during acceleration then it bogs or dies, your power circuit jet may be the culprit. Fairly simple to get to by removing the top piece of the carb assembly. What carb does your Desoto have? The secondary cause may be problems withthe timing advance mechanisims within the distributor. Does it rev without bog or stumble in neutral? Edited July 5, 2015 by greg g Quote
Mark Haymond Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 Sorta sounds like the distributor breaker plate is not moving in response to changing engine vacuum. Take off the distributor cap. Sucking on the vacuum line to the distributor with a hand held pump or lung power will show if the plate is moving. If it does not move, the plate is jammed or the vacuum advance unit on the side of the distributor has a leaking rubber diaphragm. Lady Grey should have more pep than you describe. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 centrifugal advance would be my first concern and why I stated what I did..the vacuum is not present under acceleration and would not be cause of the problem if indeed it is a result of no advancement...the cam advances mechanically and used for acceleration the plate by vacuum and is solely for economy..look for stuck cam or flyweights along with a quality parts tune up... 1 Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 I don't think that you can move that plate with lung power , it takes too much vacuum . Although you might be able to tell if the diaphragm has a leak . Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) a properly lubed and operating point plate will move with mouth vacuum if there are no leaks in the diaphragm...remember it starts advancing early as in 1 degree at 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 inches and will max advance with 14 inches or so... Edited July 5, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
ledfootslim Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Posted July 5, 2015 Yep, its squirting good. I think the carburetor is doing good. Ok, I lied. Double checked and it is no longer squirting good. Shows what I get for talking too soon. So I guess I'm gonna do some searching here on the forum, I seem to remember a few topics on the accelerator pump. And Plymouthy, I am running electronic ignition and set the timing yesterday to 10 btdc. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) thanks for the reply...it is information like the electronic ignition, that will help the forum at large further help you...my crystal ball got broken during the last double sonic boom...rolled right off the Ouija board... Edited July 5, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 Soak the accelerator pump leather in oil overnight then re-install. Reduce the timing advance to no more than 5 degrees, 2-3 degrees might be better. 1 Quote
ledfootslim Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Posted July 5, 2015 Soak the accelerator pump leather in oil overnight then re-install. Reduce the timing advance to no more than 5 degrees, 2-3 degrees might be better. Ok, I have the leather soaking, but it is pretty cracked and looks shrunken. Is there a place where you can get a good replacement? I tried ebay, but didn't have any luck. And is there anything I should do to remove the oil from it, or should I just install it like it comes out of the oil? Thanks! Quote
Young Ed Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 I saw new ones back a while on napa's website. 1 Quote
ledfootslim Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Posted July 5, 2015 I think this is one- looks like it'll work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCELERATOR-FOR-CARTER-1-BARREL-BB1-CARBURETOR-39-60-DODGE-TRK-CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH-/321153233598?hash=item4ac63972be&vxp=mtr Quote
Young Ed Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 Yes but for not that much more you can probably order an entire carb kit. Quote
Young Ed Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Accelerator-Pump-w-o-Spring-Leather/_/R-CRB24015_0064618245 1 Quote
ledfootslim Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Posted July 6, 2015 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Accelerator-Pump-w-o-Spring-Leather/_/R-CRB24015_0064618245 Great, thanks very much! I'll try my old one tomorrow and see if I need to get a new one. Should I clean the oil off of it other than just wiping it off before re-installing? Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted July 6, 2015 Report Posted July 6, 2015 Don't worry about a few drops of oil . 1 Quote
ledfootslim Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Posted July 6, 2015 Ok, I soaked the old one overnight and stuck it back in, but still no squirt. I ordered a new one and it should be to NAPA by wednesday. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 6, 2015 Report Posted July 6, 2015 did you verify fuel in the plunger chamber prior to insertion...are the check balls free to move to allow fuel in and the also allow it to push it out into the carb throat..these balls are check valves for proper flow of the fuel Quote
ledfootslim Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Posted July 6, 2015 did you verify fuel in the plunger chamber prior to insertion...are the check balls free to move to allow fuel in and the also allow it to push it out into the carb throat..these balls are check valves for proper flow of the fuel The chamber was full of gas, so I couldn't tell if the balls were seating. When I put the new one in, is there a good way to drain the chamber to check? Quote
Niel Hoback Posted July 6, 2015 Report Posted July 6, 2015 When you put the new one in, fill the bowl with gas and push the pump down. If it squirts gas, the check balls are working. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 6, 2015 Report Posted July 6, 2015 The chamber was full of gas, so I couldn't tell if the balls were seating. When I put the new one in, is there a good way to drain the chamber to check? the best way to drain the camber is squirt it out with the accelerator pump housing AFTER you wick the reservoir clear with a paper tow or equiv. .....as stated..you have one check ball that allow the fuel into the chamber that is the home of the pump plunger...when full of fuel and you press down the pressure will cause the one ball to seat and not return to the fuel reservoir that is the home of the float and the other ball will now lift off its seat under the pressure and allow the fuel to exit into the venturi..when the pump lever is released to return to top of stroke balls act is reverse...allowing the venturi to seal and the reservoir ball to lift allow fuel to enter the chamber... 1 Quote
pflaming Posted July 7, 2015 Report Posted July 7, 2015 Did you pull a Bruce Jenner and leave the balls out?? Just couldn't resist that!! 1 Quote
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