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Posted

Dwell won't do you any good on the electronic ignition. Dwell is for setting points.

Earl

I know, I just really want to have an idea of what rpms the engine is actually turning.

Posted

Good job! You will want to invest in a good timing light with built in advance and tach for setting your timing correctly and your idle speed. Note if it isn't self powered you can hook it to any 12v battery sitting by the car or hook to another cars battery parked close enough.

Earl

Could I attach it to a battery charger theoretically?

Posted (edited)

depends on the trigger sensitivity...some chargers has a lot of AC ripple riding on the DC...Mopar electronic ECU's are sensitive to this and will false fire..

 

let me add some chargers have a better rectification network and filtering system...you can always measure the ripple on the DC carrier..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
  • Like 1
Posted

Your timing light may very well work just fine with the 6 volt battery. I am using a craftsman dial back with my 6 volt and it works great. Might be able to save yourself a little bit of extra work.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok, I went ahead and ordered a Pertronix ignition setup

What part number was it please? Interested in the same after I do a little research....  have Ignitors in my hopped up F250 and my stock 70 VW and love them

  • Like 1
Posted

I use an old Sears tach/dwell meter on my Dodge. The meter is labelled for 12 volt neg. ground, but it works fine on my 6 volt pos. ground system. Just be sure to connect the power clips to the correct battery posts. I don't think that it will harm you meter to try it.

  • Like 1
Posted

Could I attach it to a battery charger theoretically?

Probably not. A 12v power supply you could. I never tried a 12v timing light on 6v before,not sure if it will work or work accuraty. I'd just pull your regular vehicle nearby and use its battery. Always check engine timing and idle speed with the engine up to temp, not cold or warm.

Earl

Posted

Doug;

I have not come across any reference material that said anything about not using solid core wires. Where did you see this?

I have been using them without any ill effects so far....... :confused: but I have been known to make mistakes too.

 

Thanks ,jeff

 

 

Jeff  I haven't forgot but haven't been felling well for the past 3+ days.

 

I will find the sources that I've read as soon as I do fell up to spending the time.

 

Sorry,

Doug

 

Posted (edited)

 

Doug;

I have not come across any reference material that said anything about not using solid core wires. Where did you see this?

I have been using them without any ill effects so far....... :confused: but I have been known to make mistakes too.

 

Thanks ,jeff

 

 

Jeff  I haven't forgot but haven't been felling well for the past 3+ days.

 

I will find the sources that I've read as soon as I do fell up to spending the time.

 

Sorry,

Doug

 

 

Doug,

 

First what Jeff said .. get your rest and recover.  I have enjoyed reading your posts here tonight about your progress.

 

I have been reading up on the Pertronix / Electronic ignitions as something I may be interested in during my rebuild of my 52 B-3-B pickup. 

 

I just read on page 4 of the 2015 PerTronix Ignition Catalog the following: " ** As with all modern electronics, our modules must not be used with solid core spark plug wires"  ... the message goes on to recommend the use of their Suppression core spark plug wires. 

 

I have no idea what the impact is of using solid core versus suppression core wires unless it has to do with possible radio / television signal frequency interference impacting the charge as it travels to the spark plug.  Perhaps Jeff knows? 

 

Of course I did not see a pertronix ignition system for my IAT-4003A distributor.  Will have to continue my research ....

 

NOTE: quick update .. (about 20 minutes after original post) I just read that:

 

EMI (electromagnetic interference)

EMI from spark plug wires can cause erroneous signals to be sent to engine management systems and other on-board electronic devices used on both racing and production vehicles in the same manner as RFI (radio frequency interference) can cause unwanted signals to be heard on a radio receiver.

 

So I am not  sure it makes any difference on our old cars.  I have no engine managements systems to speak of and only one fuse for the turn signals.

 

Phil

Edited by Phil363
  • Like 1
Posted

What part number was it please? Interested in the same after I do a little research....  have Ignitors in my hopped up F250 and my stock 70 VW and love them

 

I believe this is the parts number. Here is the link to get one from the guy I bought mine from. http://www.ebay.com/itm/190732457967?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

P/N's 2563LSP6+40011

  • Like 1
Posted

Doug,

 

First what Jeff said .. get your rest and recover.  I have enjoyed reading your posts here tonight about your progress.

 

I have been reading up on the Pertronix / Electronic ignitions as something I may be interested in during my rebuild of my 52 B-3-B pickup. 

 

I just read on page 4 of the 2015 PerTronix Ignition Catalog the following: " ** As with all modern electronics, our modules must not be used with solid core spark plug wires"  ... the message goes on to recommend the use of their Suppression core spark plug wires. 

 

I have no idea what the impact is of using solid core versus suppression core wires unless it has to do with possible radio / television signal frequency interference impacting the charge as it travels to the spark plug.  Perhaps Jeff knows? 

 

Of course I did not see a pertronix ignition system for my IAT-4003A distributor.  Will have to continue my research ....

 

NOTE: quick update .. (about 20 minutes after original post) I just read that:

 

EMI (electromagnetic interference)

EMI from spark plug wires can cause erroneous signals to be sent to engine management systems and other on-board electronic devices used on both racing and production vehicles in the same manner as RFI (radio frequency interference) can cause unwanted signals to be heard on a radio receiver.

 

So I am not  sure it makes any difference on our old cars.  I have no engine managements systems to speak of and only one fuse for the turn signals.

 

Phil

Phil;

I have been wondering why all the new carputers that pull up next to me die? I thought it was just from shame or envy. :lol:

I may just have to put those solid core wires back on.

 

Jeff

  • Like 3
Posted

The impulse pickup and module is/can be affected.  That's what triggers and controls the spark.  They are magnetic based, same as crank and cam position sensors, ABS sensors. on the new vehicles.   Putting in a stray magnetic field confuses them.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok, I went ahead and ordered a Pertronix ignition setup for Lady Grey and got it installed, she fired right up, runs so much quieter, I made my way to the nearest paved road and for the first time in the almost two years we've been together, she just ran like a top up to 55, just as smooth as you could wish! I guess that even after multiple condensers and sets of new and nos points that we never ended up getting them set perfectly, or the spring was never stout enough to keep it from floating. Either way, we are running much better! There is a little stumble when you first accelerate that is mostly noticeable when the car is in neutral. I have the distributor adjusted all the way it can go, but it seems like it still needs to go a little more. Any farther the other way and it won't even idle. How can I get more adjustment room, anyone? Thanks in advance, and a huge thank you to everyone who has helped me get this far!

Major adjustment screw on the bottom of distributor?

  • Like 1
Posted

Major adjustment screw on the bottom of distributor?

Thank you, Mr Coatney and a few others already pointed me in the right direction. I have it purring along great and have been driving it to work everyday. I actually just got back from driving it home at night for the first time  :D

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