1949 Dodge B1-D......or What have i gotten myself into?????

[pflaming]

I noticed that you are so far north, you are almost neighbors with Sarah Palin! LOL

[Darkrider]

I noticed that you are so far north, you are almost neighbors with Sarah Palin! LOL

 

LOL!...thankfully im far enough south from her to make that moot point

[Darkrider]

So...now that i noticed that someone got into the truck within the past few nights...i found the drivers door slightly ajar last night when i parked in the parking lot behind the house with the van and walked by the truck. What are my options for retrofitting a lock to the drivers door? The passenger door has a lock operated by a key cylinder that is keyed the same as the ignition. I had gotten some info from VPW about locking door handles for the truck in the past. But im wondering if it is possible to fit the drivers door with the same sort of lock mechanism as the passenger door?

[Plymouthy Adams]

you should be able at minimum to push your handle forward and engage the locking of the drivers door as you exit on the right and lock that door with the key..that will slow them down but it is only a slight deterrence and keeps out very few brick bats 

Edited October 4, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[Darkrider]

you should be able at minimum to push your handle forward and engage the locking of the drivers door as you exit on the right and lock that door with the key..that will slow them down but it is only a slight deterrence and keeps out very few brick bats 

 

Huh...didnt even realise the doors functioned like that...but still is there a way to add a lock cylinder? I have no problem with the idea of using something from another vehicle as long as the latch is able to be locked with the use of one.

[Jeff Balazs]

Well......I might still have the only Pilothouse with "factory" door locks on both sides but it can be done. All you need is a passenger side lock mechanism from Oz. Works well. Used it yesterday when out shopping. There might be one or two more of these floating around? It is pretty darn slick.

Thanks again to Davin in Oz for his assistance with this.

 

Jeff

[Darkrider]

Well......I might still have the only Pilothouse with "factory" door locks on both sides but it can be done. All you need is a passenger side lock mechanism from Oz. Works well. Used it yesterday when out shopping. There might be one or two more of these floating around? It is pretty darn slick.

Thanks again to Davin in Oz for his assistance with this.

 

Jeff

 

Now you have my attention...besides the cylinder do i need anything else? like the door latch itself as well?

[Young Ed]

I believe someone on here found a similar exterior door handle that bolted on and contained its own key system.

[Darkrider]

I believe someone on here found a similar exterior door handle that bolted on and contained its own key system.

 

I know VPW has such door handles and will make custom ones for our trucks. I was hoping to find a solution like what Jeff has...mostly so it looks more correct having a lock on both sides like modern vehicles.

[Jeff Balazs]

Yes you need the entire latch/ lock mechanism which is a direct bolt up. You have to drill 3 holes as well. One in the door skin for the cylinder, one in the door edge for the cylinder set screw and one on the inside to guide the cylinder tag into place. You will also have to attach a sleeve on the inside of the door sking to hold the cylinder in place.

 

Jeff

[Plymouthy Adams]

does not the door itself need to have the reinforced metal plate that is all in all witht he lock securing screw?

[Darkrider]

Yes you need the entire latch/ lock mechanism which is a direct bolt up. You have to drill 3 holes as well. One in the door skin for the cylinder, one in the door edge for the cylinder set screw and one on the inside to guide the cylinder tag into place. You will also have to attach a sleeve on the inside of the door sking to hold the cylinder in place.

 

Jeff

 

I may need to talk to Davan about getting my hands on an OZ door set up...

 

does not the door itself need to have the reinforced metal plate that is all in all witht he lock securing screw?

 

good question

[Desotodav]

Drop me a PM if you want DarkRider.

 

See post #29 of this thread... http://p15-d24.com/topic/38449-installation-of-door-window-glass-questions/page-3?hl=%20door%20%20lock... where 4mula-dlx talks about alternative door-locking handles.

[ggdad1951]

I know I have 2 OZ driver side latches in my grubby hands but only need the one...Hank what was our deal again?

[Darkrider]

I know I have 2 OZ driver side latches in my grubby hands but only need the one...Hank what was our deal again?

 

If you are willing to part ways with one i would def be interested in taking it off your hands!

[ggdad1951]

Once hank gets back to me (us) we will figure it out

[Darkrider]

Once hank gets back to me (us) we will figure it out

 

Sounds good!

[ggdad1951]

HANK?

[ggdad1951]

Sounds good!

  PM sent

[Darkrider]

  PM sent

 

Pm seen and responded to!

[Darkrider]

Ok...been away for awhile due to various outside factors related to work and some issues with my daily driven pickup that took my focus off of the B1 for awhile. The problem with the starter really stalled me out and im still searching for one. However while surfing the quality power site one evening i noticed they listed a 12 volt Gear reduction starter that will fit similar year Chrysler applications. Now remembering that Paul used one from a 54? Plymouth to convert his truck to a solenoid type starter i am just wondering did the Chrysler cars use the same engines as the trucks as well? I will be calling them in the near future to see if their starters will in fact work but i just wanted to have a rough idea ahead of time as they list the starter for both Hemi and non Hemi cars with the same part number. Either way for convenience sake i will be doing the 12 volt conversion on the truck either way using a GM 3 wire alt that i already picked up from a friend and most likely using the all thread method of mounting it i seen on here.

[Darkrider]

Ok, Digging this up as i plan on starting to gather more parts for this truck over the winter. One idea i am considering is replacing the oil filter set up with a modern remote mount spin on filter. Is it possible to simply remove the original set up and install barbed hose fittings to do such a thing? I am also planning on adding an engine bay oil pressure gauge as was recommended in this thread earlier. Just covering all my bases here on this thing. Speaking of...does anyone with a B1-D know what the measurements would be for the brake shoes on these trucks? I may have a lead on someone here in Canada that can reline the ones in my truck but as i do not have access to it at this time i cannot get the measurements from it.

[Dave72dt]

I've never understood the idea of an under hood gauge.  I can see no purpose in it except when testing, troubleshooting a problem or making an adjustment.  I can't see any of them when the hood is closed and the vehicle is in motion.   There's a set of gauges on the dash for that.

[MBF]

Darkrider, GRAVELY L model tractors used to use a bracket to replace the sealed canister type filter to allow you to use a spin-on type.  That can be remotely plumbed and either mounted in the same location as the canister you have.  If it's mounted to the head like the original, you can use fixed tubing, but if your mounting it on the firewall or another area of the body you should probably use something that can flex.  As far as brakes, NAPA sells the cylinders, and any relining shop should be able to reline your shoes for you.  I'd also replace the 3 rubber flex lines while I had it apart along with any of the steel tubing to avoid problems down the road.   Mike

[Darkrider]

On 12/24/2016 at 6:02 PM, Dave72dt said:

I've never understood the idea of an under hood gauge.  I can see no purpose in it except when testing, troubleshooting a problem or making an adjustment.  I can't see any of them when the hood is closed and the vehicle is in motion.   There's a set of gauges on the dash for that.

That will be its main purpose is for underhood trouble shooting. Same reason i will probably end up fitting a fuel pressure gauge as well.

On 12/25/2016 at 0:02 PM, MBFowler said:

Darkrider, GRAVELY L model tractors used to use a bracket to replace the sealed canister type filter to allow you to use a spin-on type.  That can be remotely plumbed and either mounted in the same location as the canister you have.  If it's mounted to the head like the original, you can use fixed tubing, but if your mounting it on the firewall or another area of the body you should probably use something that can flex.  As far as brakes, NAPA sells the cylinders, and any relining shop should be able to reline your shoes for you.  I'd also replace the 3 rubber flex lines while I had it apart along with any of the steel tubing to avoid problems down the road.   Mike

Thanks for the info! While doing some searching online i seen info that hinted at the front brakes being something around a 11x2 pad while the rears were around 14x2 or something. Seems odd the trucks would have larger rear brakes but eh.

 

Speaking of brakes...Since it is quite likely i will be swapping in a TF904 into this truck to eliminate the hard to find clutch and starter problem that stalled this project. I need to change the brake master cyl mounting anyway...I was talking to a friend about using a vacuum boost set up in its place after seeing one used in the truck that got a Hemi swap on here. The question is this...will i need to fit a dedicated vacuum pump to the engine or can i safely use the same vacuum port the windshield wipers use with a T to get vacuum pressure to the booster?

Edited December 26, 2016 by Darkrider