ruff1148kr Posted March 9, 2015 Report Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) me either LOL I keep telling her it does not cost anything to look, she's not buying it yours will be better in no time Edited March 9, 2015 by ruff1148kr 1 Quote
Frank Elder Posted March 11, 2015 Report Posted March 11, 2015 I like how they go for the quick shine....wet 'er down. 1 Quote
Big50Dodge Posted March 13, 2015 Report Posted March 13, 2015 i was hoping you would chime in you probably forgot more than i'll ever know and i do appreciate it two mystery knobs (to me ) on the dash dash.JPG and what i will call a switch located at the back of the block switch.JPG wonder if they have anything to do with the add on? Ever find out what the white knob is for..? My guess is either - the lock for the dump, or the PTO "switch". There would be a cable that goes from the knob all the way down to the PTO on the transmission. If a lock for the dump, you could again have a cable that would go to some type of lock mechanism to hold the dump body down against the frame. Quote
Brent B3B Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Posted March 13, 2015 Ever find out what the white knob is for..? My guess is either - the lock for the dump, or the PTO "switch". There would be a cable that goes from the knob all the way down to the PTO on the transmission. If a lock for the dump, you could again have a cable that would go to some type of lock mechanism to hold the dump body down against the frame. not running to the point i can try anything out. the knob activates the switch (vacuum under the horn) my coach tells me "..... should go as a vacuum supply for the brake booster and to the vacuum operated rear 2 speed axle diaphragm" another source tells me the pto is activated by the levers on the floor laying under the seat is a parking brake and band they must have removed to install the pto? thanks to my coaches! hope i didn't miss quote anyone now i will be looking for that lock mechanism. thanks Big50dodge i can't wait to fire this thing up..... (rubbing my hands together) Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 14, 2015 Report Posted March 14, 2015 The old PTO's (40's/50's) are usually operated by a lever through the floor. There might be a second lever that operates the hydraulic part of the lift cylinder. Later 60's up are uually operated by a big 3" push/pull knob in the dash. My 51 2-1/2 tonner has a single cylinder hydraulic dump bed. To operate it you push the clutch in then engage the PTO with one tall shift lver pulling it back all the way.... Let the clutch out and you can hear and feel the PTO driveshaft turning the gear oil pump built into the front end of the 10" diameter hydraulic lift ram. Then to lift the bed there is a second lever that has a forward position (raises bed)...and middle (holds/ wont raise or lower position of bed) and Rear position that will lower the bed back down. As for that knob on the dash operating a switch under the horn and possibly operating the dump PTO I've never seen that type. My 1 tonner has a big red dash knob and cable that does operate the trans PTO I put on it back in 1973. Bob 1 Quote
Brent B3B Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Posted March 22, 2015 OK, it's running, I adjusted the valves (thanks Bob and Merle) and replaced the fuel pump. while it is idling I noticed a slight "wobble" in the distributor. (i'll have to research that some more) went to lift the dump bed...... Nothing......... no fluid in the reservoir. anyone have a preference or advice on hydraulic fluid? this system was an add on in 1975 by "Newell truck company" of Portland (no longer in Portland) this is the fluid I have been using for my bobcat kind of hesitant......... can't find a AW rating on the label. does anyone have a diagram of how the parking brake is mounted with the PTO off the transmission and my set up through the floor? Lastly, can't see what the heck is the second battery for? Many thanks everyone for getting me this far! Quote
48Dodger Posted March 24, 2015 Report Posted March 24, 2015 I'm jealous Brent.....I've had my 49 dump truck for about 8 years and haven't had a chance to do anything to it! Can't wait to to see yours up and running!! 48D 1 Quote
Brent B3B Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Posted March 25, 2015 i know nobody wants to hear every little detail, so i'll give it a rest for a while. last night 5 gallon of fluid and was able to raise the bed. everything looked good (no leaks) left it raised for about 1/2hr or so (my wife suggested i call a Dr. after 4hrs ) anyway, how smooth do the PTO's work? seemed "choppy"...... you guys are right, the small lever through the floor engages the PTO, the harger lever raises, lowers and holds the bed. and the white (oxidized black) knob is plumbed to the rear differiantial, 2 speed..... Now, on to the brakes! 1 Quote
Dave72dt Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 They're not choppy unless there is some air in the system, low on fluid or have some kind of bind in the pivot points. Recheck your fluid level after cycling the system a few times. 1 Quote
Todd B Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 also grease or oil the pivot points, looks cool 1 Quote
1TonDirtyMopar Posted March 26, 2015 Report Posted March 26, 2015 i know nobody wants to hear every little detail, so i'll give it a rest for a while. last night 5 gallon of fluid and was able to raise the bed. bed lift.JPGlift.JPG everything looked good (no leaks) left it raised for about 1/2hr or so (my wife suggested i call a Dr. after 4hrs ) anyway, how smooth do the PTO's work? seemed "choppy"...... you guys are right, the small lever through the floor engages the PTO, the harger lever raises, lowers and holds the bed. and the white (oxidized black) knob is plumbed to the rear differiantial, 2 speed..... Now, on to the brakes! HAHAHAHAHA Your wife is great! 2 Quote
Brent B3B Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Posted June 23, 2015 working on the brakes, had a local company re line the shoes, and "Haygen auto parts" rebuilt the cylinders with SS anyone think of a reason why the rear "major" adjustment nuts are welded to the backing plates? and looking at the rear differential there are four 1/2" drive "plugs" one on the inspection plate (i thought for filling) one on the bottom for draining. but there are two others one on top left (in the photo) and one facing the front. i don't see a reference for them in the manual...... everyone probably knows the size difference of these drums but just for giggles i compared the front drums to my b3b Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 23, 2015 Report Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) The other two plugs on the diff housing itself ..one is for inspection.. it's on the top and left and the other front right plug is a oil distributor spring/housing retainer plug. The rear anchor nuts are not supposed to be welded. Someone originally never tightened them enough the 1st time doing a brake job and adjustment... So later I would assume the anchors and shoes were moving and or locking locking up. That meant to really tighten those big anchor nuts the drums would have to be removed to hold the anchor cam bolt so the nut could be tightend properly and 100%. Welding was quicker. Edited June 23, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote
Brent B3B Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Posted June 23, 2015 what a pain to have to remove the drum every time, although i am getting pretty quick at it (i am down to less than1/2hr ) any reason why a guy can't use a grade 8 lock washer and nuts on the anchor cam bolt? also, went to a local wrecking yard and found a parking brake assembly (complete with transmission $250.) are all the larger trucks thru the floor or can they be used in the fire wall like my B3B? (might be to much with the vacuum lines on that side of the block) i think someone removed this assembly when they installed the PTO sticks for the bed, possibly to avoid cutting another space in the floor pan. by far the worst thing about working on these brakes is......... for the first time ever............... i had to put on my reading glasses while working on a vehicle Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 23, 2015 Report Posted June 23, 2015 On anchors that are not frozen to the shoe or backing plate you can easily loosen the nut and adjust them easily with out pulling the drums. If the anchor bolt is badly frozen (rusted) to the brake shoe anchor hole in the shoe web you cannot do anything to free it up except to remove the drum. People round off the two flats on the cam bolt trying to turn it when it's frozen up. Another issue to fix too when it happens. It's those of us restoring the trucks taking the time to fix them right! A nut and washer is what is factory installed on the medium duty truck anchors like you say. I have always arced the shoes to fit the drums and never change factory anchor bolt settings . Just the minor cam adjustment and I always get a high firm pedal. 1 Quote
Brent B3B Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Posted July 4, 2015 I know these colors don't run but the truck does! sorry, I am sure this has been done a bunch of times with these two ton's couldn't help but dress Bob up for the 4th........ drove him up and down our gravel road practicing that shifting and braking in the new pads and cylinders..... tried to take a video to put on Merles "lets go for a ride" but the video was sideways and a lot of grinding and jerking....... (and I don't know how post videos) have to get a lot better to get off our road, there is around a 10% incline at the top what a blast! 3 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 5, 2015 Report Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) Truck looks awesome and that box is humungus heavy duty lookin! Have fun with it. Practice plenty doing the 5 and 2 combo shifting! You will figure it out. Might take a few months though! I love shifting the non syncro 5 speed and eaton 1350 2 speed raer axle. A fast combo once you learn it. Vacuum rear axles are very fast shiting! My 4 tonner Timkin double reduction 2 speed rear end is not as fast as the lighter 1350 or 1650 series axles .. Edited July 5, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya 3 Quote
wallytoo Posted July 6, 2015 Report Posted July 6, 2015 concur about the vacuum shift. the 1350 in my 1.5 ton is lightning fast. once i figured out how to split shift, it made driving the truck a whole lot better (hi to low or low to hi is easy, but going from 3 hi to 4 low, or 3 low to 2 hi takes a little practice). especially important when it is loaded, and trying to go up a hill. 1 Quote
Akdn Posted September 10, 2015 Report Posted September 10, 2015 Hi Brent, When you did your brakes did you have the drums turned? I also have a 2 ton 1952 , doing the brakes now and cant find specs on the drums. I found one forum that said fronts were 14 1/8 and rears are 16" Hagens rebuilt my master cylinder. I have thr drums ready to turn but the shop cant figure out the size it is supposed to be. I have had this since 1977, it sat for the last 10 years now my daughter wants to fix it up. Quote
Brent B3B Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Posted September 10, 2015 Hi Brent, When you did your brakes did you have the drums turned? I also have a 2 ton 1952 , doing the brakes now and cant find specs on the drums. I found one forum that said fronts were 14 1/8 and rears are 16" Hagens rebuilt my master cylinder. I have thr drums ready to turn but the shop cant figure out the size it is supposed to be. I have had this since 1977, it sat for the last 10 years now my daughter wants to fix it up. you caught me Akdn... i did not turn the drums this time. i cleaned them up, scuffed them up and greased up the bearings. mainly for the reason you mentioned. and i thought my trucks name same needed a break from my questions. BTW, welcome, tell your daughter "that a girl!" from all of us! and i am going to have to see some photo's of that bus!! (hey that kind of rhymed ) Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 11, 2015 Report Posted September 11, 2015 Hi Brent, When you did your brakes did you have the drums turned? I also have a 2 ton 1952 , doing the brakes now and cant find specs on the drums. I found one forum that said fronts were 14 1/8 and rears are 16" Hagens rebuilt my master cylinder. I have thr drums ready to turn but the shop cant figure out the size it is supposed to be. I have had this since 1977, it sat for the last 10 years now my daughter wants to fix it up. There is more than one model of 2 ton trucks. You need to know the model..H, HH J, K ect. to figure out drum and Shoe width specs. No over size is mentioned although .060" is usually max but on large truck drums the OS is sometimes more. A good truck shop should know. The only 2 ton trucks with 16" front drums are the heavy duty two ton J series trucks. Shoe width is 2-1/2" Rear drums on all models of two ton models use 16" rear drums... depending on model 3" or 3-1/2" wide rear shoes are used. Pull the drums to be sure of what you have. Quote
Todd B Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 I always thought my Semi (B3JA) was a 2.5 ton??? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) It is a 2-1/2 ton Todd- my mistake again.! I think you asked me this same question a year or two ago. I made the same mistake then! I'm going to slow down on this dear dodge forum help line. Lately I've been screwing up too much. 1951 and up J trucks.. Though not all are rated 2-1/2 ton. Depends on the tag specs on the door post. A JL is a 1-1/2 ton. 1948-50 J series are 2 ton max rating. My 1948 JA is a 2 ton. My 1951 JA is a 2-1/2 tonner. Large 8" pattern 5 stud wheels 1-1/2 and 2 ton trucks most all using 14-1/8" front drums except J trucks. Large 8-3/4" pattern 6 stud wheels 2-1/2 ton trucks all use 16" front drums. Sorry for the piled on confusion.... Bob Edited September 12, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Todd B Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 Don't stop with the help, you are the most knowledgeable person I know on the big rigs. I used to enjoy correcting my woodshop teacher, it made me feel smarter than I really was. Thanks for all your input. Todd B 2 Quote
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