mvance1944 Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 I need to replace a leaking head gasket on my 1952 B3B 1/2 ton p/u. Do I mount the new gasket dry or spray it with a sealer? Some people say put it on dry, others say coat it first. Who's right? Thanks Quote
1941Rick Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 LOL no one seems to be jumping on this one...different schools different thoughts. Myself, if head and block surfaces are in very good shape I go dry. If they are usable but rough I go with a sealer of some sort. Like Permatex. Not a big fan of sealing gaskets. That is their job alone. Also some will use a sealer on copper gaskets, why, dont know. Ask several people and you will get several answers. 1 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 Proper surface prep is critical...100% complete cleaning of surfaces...Wipe clean with brake cleaner or equivalent. Check/clean head bolts..use sealant like Permatex 2 ect on the bolt threads. I do use gasket sealer... Copper Coat usually on the Mopar flathead copper gaskets as noted by "Best Gaskets". Torque the head in three stages . Run engine to temp..re-torque again to specs. JMO... Bob 3 Quote
Andydodge Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 Also I'll throw this in............I assume you have a standard type cast iron head, if so then the copper head gasket is fine with the spray on sealer as an added bonus, however IF you have an aftermarket finned aluminium head then do NOT use a copper gasket.........Best actually make a steel gasket for this purpose as the copper gasket will react with an alloy head around the headbolts........anyway just thought I'd mention this............the bolt thread sealer is also critical................andyd 1 Quote
Dan Hiebert Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 I've heard both arguments, but by experience, I'd recommend using a sealer. Many years ago I installed a new metal (copper) head gasket in the D24 dry as was recommended by "knowledgeable folk" (no one here, this was before the Forum came about). The cylinders promptly filled up with coolant (the silver lining being that it was obvious my piston rings were good, not a drop leaked down into the oil pan). Disassembled it, cleaned it up (again), used Permatex spray on copper high heat gasket sealer - recommended for head gaskets - and no issues in the 20 or so years since. 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 The only thing I have ever used on head gaskets is spray paint. Logic being the paint will seal any minor imperfections. And I use what ever color I have on hand so as to not pay designer color prices I know a guy who recommends soaking the head gasket in a tub full of water overnight prior to installing. He says this works well but I have never tried it and probably never will. Bottom line is do what you are most comfortable with. 2 Quote
Dave72dt Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 I've done the gasket soak method for a half hour, never overnight, back when the inner material was still asbestos. Now that that's no longer used, I wouldn't bother with the soak method. Aluminum paint works well as a sealer too and since it has metal particles in it, may help transfer heat. I still went back over the bolts after it was brought up to operating temp. A graphite based gasket would be my preferred choice for use on an aluminum head. It allows for a bit of "slip" due to different expansion rates between cast iron and aluminum. Quote
mvance1944 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Posted December 31, 2014 Thanks to all of you for taking the time to respond! Quote
greg g Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 The most important parst other than choosing a good gasket is making sure the mating surfaces are clean and true, and that the torquing procedure and sequence is followed as per the manual. Followed up by a re torque after a full heat cycle. 1 Quote
greg g Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 The most important parts are choosing a good quality gasket, making sure the mating surfaces are clean and true, and then following the proper torquing procedure and sequence. Followed up with a proper re torque after running the engine through a heat cycle. Quote
Tom Skinner Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 I used to put Grease on them (Copper Gaskets). That was back in the 70's on old Flat Heads with Cast Iron Heads. It worked fine. 1 Quote
steveplym Posted December 31, 2014 Report Posted December 31, 2014 Don't forget pipe sealant on the bolt threads. 3 Quote
NiftyFifty Posted January 1, 2015 Report Posted January 1, 2015 I used a very light coating of aviation gasket sealer the second go round... But as stated above... Proper surface is key. My head was out a 1/16th of and inch, so it was decked pretty severe... But no shim.... The compression ratio is low to begin with, so I felt it was safe Quote
ptwothree Posted January 2, 2015 Report Posted January 2, 2015 On 12/31/2014 at 9:21 PM, Tom Skinner said: I used to put Grease on them (Copper Gaskets). That was back in the 70's on old Flat Heads with Cast Iron Heads. It worked fine. Ditto! Works great....... Quote
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