Car is back together but still won’t start!

[perrymedik]

So I have this problem that I would like some recommendations on.

Working on the engine for the past few months I was able to get it pretty clean.  Then I went away for over 3 weeks and left the car with the hood closed in my pop up garage (Tarp type with zipper door).

While I was gone it was cold and rainy, and when I got home I could see some water, but not much on the car.  When I opened the hood it looks like virtually every surface that could get rust on it has.  Even the brand new water pump!!!

 

 

Aside from making me sick to my stomach I assume that it will survive but it doesn't make me happy.

 

I know that the permanent solution would be to pull the motor and its components and paint them all, but that's not in the cards right now.

Is there anything I can do to keep this from happening?  I was thinking of spraying everything with PB Blaster, giving it a light scrub, and then respraying.  Or maybe spray with WD-40, light scrub, then light rub with fresh motor oil.

 

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

In other news, the new Vacuum advance arrived today.  So I'll be assembling it and installing it to see if that fixes the engine stutter upon acceleration.  

 

It's pretty chilly out.  Thank goodness for torpedo heaters!!

 

EDIT:  I wanted to point out that those head bolts are brand new, as is the water pump and spark plugs and they are all covered with surface rust!!! Grrrrrrr!!!!

Edited January 7, 2015 by perrymedik

[Merle Coggins]

Humidity and condensation can cause surface rust on exposed metal parts. To prevent this they need a rust inhibiting coating. Either paint, oil, or etc.

[Don Coatney]

Per your handle I assume you have some medical training. But that training does not always apply to automotive mechanical work. Next time don't wash the grease and oil off your hands before and during assembly.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

_{you can wash the assembly carefully with phosphoric acid...if this is just recent oxidation it will be thin set and will be readily removed with the acid...take care to keep from recently painted surfaces or nor ferrous metal..the more local to an area you keep the acid...the more control you have on the process...start at the top and work you way down..small toothbrush size wire brush and steel wool can agitate the acid and surface for faster removal of the rust...wear glove and splash shield...}

[Young Ed]

I was able to paint the engine in my car with only removing a few basic components. I used a wire brush on an elec drill to clean everything and then painted with POR15 engine paint. I had the manifolds off at the time to fix the heat riser and I removed the oil fill, generator,  plug wires and I think the dist.

[linus6948]

Personally I`m a big fan of this stuff, I have been using it for years.

 

http://www.fluid-film.com/

[perrymedik]

[perrymedik]

Can anyone see what I wrote in post #207?  When ever I try to quote someone it always shows up blank on my screen.  Don't know if it's a glitch on my Mac or if it's really not showing up.

[perrymedik]

So I installed the new Vacuum Advance and it did make a difference when hitting the acceleroator, but there is still a stumble.  I have taken out the Accelerator pump and will soak it in oil for a few hours per Don's recommendation.

 

Don Coatney:  What kind of oil should I soak it it?  Fresh Motor Oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, or some other type?

 

Plymouth Adams: I'm going to head out now to get some of that phosphoric acid and start cleaning.

 

Linus6948:  I checked out the link.  That stuff looks awesome!  Found a local dealer and am heading over to pick up a few cans.  Rust be gone!!!!!

[Don Coatney]

perrymedik, on 07 Jan 2015 - 2:39 PM, said:

Nothing

Oil is oil does not matter what you soak it in.

[Young Ed]

Can anyone see what I wrote in post #207?  When ever I try to quote someone it always shows up blank on my screen.  Don't know if it's a glitch on my Mac or if it's really not showing up.

 

Looks blank to me.

[Frank Elder]

 

Empty........

[Dave72dt]

Oil is not a friend if you intend to paint   It has to be completely removed to get paint to adhere properly and since the cast is not a smooth surface, all the minute pockets can hold a bit of oily residue. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

perrymedik, on 07 Jan 2015 - 2:41 PM, said:

Can anyone see what I wrote in post #207?  When ever I try to quote someone it always shows up blank on my screen.  Don't know if it's a glitch on my Mac or if it's really not showing up.

cannot see a dialog but your photos downloaded nicely

[perrymedik]

Today I re-installed the accelerator pump after soaking it over night in Marvel Mystery Oil making sure that I sprayed out the well with cleaner then air per the Service Manual and started up the motor.

 

Still stalling severely when I would give it gas.  Looking down the throat of the Carb I could see that where before it had been a weak stream, there was now no flow at all.  Completely dry.

 

Systematically working my way along the path of the fuel for the accelerator pump I arrived and the discovery that the jet was clogged.  So, removal, clearing of the blockage, and reinstall I hand tested it several times and see now that I have a generous stream of fuel when I move the accelerator linkage.  Wonderful!!

 

Tried to start the car.  Nada.  A noticeable pool of fuel lay at the bottom of the carb in the intake manifold.  Flooded?  Smelled strongly of fuel.  Then the battery started to weaken, so now I sit here eating my chili (its 17F outside where I am working) while the fuel dries out and the battery sits on the tender.

 

I think I need to put an inline fuel filter in place somewhere.  The fuel in the Carb bowl looked kind of dirty, not muddy water, but not that fresh gas look that you get when you pour it out of the can. That and the fact that sediment did block up the jet.

 

Anyway, thats where we sit as of now.  Hopefully after a charge and drying time it will act right and be ready to hit the road.

[Frank Elder]

Guys I can't stress this enough...when I purchase an older car the first thing I do is drop the tank, clean, fix, or replace depending on the condition.....REPLACE...the fuel pump, every fuel line, filter, hose and clamp.

Then clean, inspect, and rebuild the carb. You got "varnish" in your arteries, so does that fuel system.

[perrymedik]

Fuel issue fixed.

 

Air filter done and installed.

 

Carb and Idle settings fine tuned.

 

Fuel gage problem identified as Sending unit and new one on order.

 

Working on some electrical issues now and have a question about what to expect.

 

1. When I turn the "Light" switch on to its first position the two running lights up front come on as well as the center red light on the trunk.

 

In this position should I expect the white license plate light to illuminate?

 

2. When I turn the light switch to its next position, the headlights come on, but the running lights go out.  Is this correct?

 

3. Finally, the brake lights on either side come on when the peddle is depressed, but remain un-lit otherwise, which if I understand the wiring diagram correctly, is the way it should be.

 

Thanks!

[Plymouthy Adams]

your car has been altered to some degree...first pull is front parking light and should be rear outside lights and the license plate light..no center brake light

second pull headlights, no front parking and rear outside lights, license light and no center trunk light...

brake center light only...MODIFIED brake can be any combination you want should you retrofit the sockets with dual elements...you can wire outside for both park and brake and also if you choose the center light to be park and brake..you did not say if the car has been upgraded to have turn signal and if they are operational..if so are they working correctly..

[perrymedik]

Plymouth Adams: Thank you for the info!  I'll take a look and see if what happens matches your descriptions.

 

The car does not have turn signals.  

 

The brake lights only have a single wire to them, and the bulbs are single filament, which makes me believe that they may only be designed to light when the brake peddle is depressed.

 

There is a terminal block in the trunk and the brake lights and the license plate light were all on the same post.  The red running light under the license plate light was wired to a different terminal.  It comes on with the first turn of the switch and stays on for the other rotations.  

 

I may have to get into the switch and terminal block to get the lights to actuate appropriately as described in your post.

 

Thanks for giving me a guide of what to expect with the switch turns, not its just a matter of making it happen!

Cory

 

The license plate light did not illuminate when the brake peddle was depressed, but the brake lights did despite both being on the same post of the terminal block.

 

I took the license plate light off the brake light terminal and placed it on the center red running light and now it comes on with the running light.

 

Of note the red running light does not change in illumination with the application of the brakes.

[Don Coatney]

From the factory the red light in the middle of the trunk is the only brake light. The red lights on the rear fenders are running/parking lights that stay on when the light switch is pulled on either for parking lights or head lights.

 

[perrymedik]

Don,  Your P-15 schematic is a bit different then my P-18 Diagram.

 

Take a look at how the brake lights, running lights and license plate lights are wired differently.  Almost looks like the License plate is supposed to illuminate when the brakes are applied or something.

 

 

 

In other news I discoved that the rear passenger brake cylinder has blown.  

 

I mean, of course it did.  I took a nice drive the day before yesterday when the weather was nice.  Why would I be allowed to do that again without some type of repair work being needed? LOL!!

[DonaldSmith]

You  can follow the "16 black" wire from the license light back through several junctions to the headlight switch.   The "16 red" wire goes from the brake light back to the brake switch.  In the diagram, the wires cross each other without connecting.  Connections are at a black dot. 

[Don Coatney]

I see it as red stop lamp, black license lamp two separate circuits.

[perrymedik]

DonaldSmith and Don Coatney:  Thanks for the read on that.  Its a work in progress.  As it is I have it set up that the center red light and license plate light come on when the running lights and head lights are on and the outer lights are activated when the brakes are applied.  I think if I sit down and draw it out by hand I might understand it better.

 

But on to something completely different.

 

I purchased new Shock Absorbers all around.  The plan is to replace the Rear Passenger Brake cylinder and the associated shock, then bleed the brakes, the move on to the Driver rear, replace the shock, bleed the brakes etc., moving in the order prescribed by the service manual for bleeding the brakes.

 

I pulled the old rear passenger side shock (it was toast) and installed the new one.  When I check my service manual for torque specs of the Shock absorber stud nut I see this funny joke from the manufacturer.

 

 

4 line items all titled Shock Absorber Stud Nut with 4 different torque spec ranges, but no indication if they are for Front, Rear, Passenger Side, Driver side, Top, Bottom, or anything.

 

Can anyone make heads or tails of this?  I don't want to over tighten and ruin the rubber grommet by causing binding and possibly tearing.

 

I googled the manufacture of the shocks, the shock types, and even this forum but came up with nada.  Any suggestions?  I'm not opposed to making "Pen and Ink" changes to my manual for future reference!

[DonaldSmith]

You would do well to connect the center red light to the brake light circuit. Originally, that was the sole brake light on some of those cars.  Chrysler had the high center brake light decades before it was mandatory.  

 

The large filament in the tail lights can be used for brake signals for for turn signals.  It would be good to use them for brake signals.  Some people add turn signal lamps.  I managed to squeeze three high-intensity lamps in each tail light housing, for the three functions.