Time to re-wire

[Plymouthy Adams]

not really Don. all the points are common to each other and B+  your alternator is not tickled by the ignition key, that is why you have to rev to excite the field...only then is the windings in play

[pflaming]

" . . . are the windings in play". Maybe Don's problem is grammatical. lol

[Niel Hoback]

 In order for the ammeter to show anything, the power from the alternator has to go thru the meter first, then to anywhere that is common to the battery post.  The first instructions say "if you are using an ammeter,,,". The second instruction is if you are using a volt meter, where the meter can be tapped in anywhere.

    I think.

[Desotodav]

Looking very professional there so far Don.

I spotted the attached picture on a local truck forum (here in Oz) this morning - how not to wire?.... It sure is funny what one finds when acquiring an old vehicle...

[William Davey]

Don,

      I think Neil has it right.  If you followed the directions as written, the alternator would be wired directly to the battery so you'd never see charge on the ammeter, it would always indicate discharging by the amount of current going to the loads off the fuse block. The battery charging line from the alternator should connect to the ammeter on the same side as the #10 wire from your new fuse block.  In this configuration, if the alternator is supplying more that the car is consuming the ammeter should show + charging.  I don't know which post is which on the ammeter, but you can easily switch the wires if it charges when it should discharge (like lights on - no running).  

Edited July 26, 2014 by William Davey

[steveplym]

 In order for the ammeter to show anything, the power from the alternator has to go thru the meter first, then to anywhere that is common to the battery post.  The first instructions say "if you are using an ammeter,,,". The second instruction is if you are using a volt meter, where the meter can be tapped in anywhere.

    I think.

 

I think you hit it on the head here.  Ammeter has to be in series, or in the circuit.  Voltmeter just measures voltage of the circuit and all you need is a power source to it, then to ground.  Pretty sure it is wired about the same way originally.  Without looking at the wiring diagram I can't remember.

[Don Coatney]

I placed an order for the pictured stuff from McMaster Carr and Summit Racing on Friday and it arrived today. Hard to beat this service.

 

[Bingster]

I got a NOS turn signal mechanism & shell for my '47 Desoto with NOS lever bar.  I was very happy finding that.  I looked for a long time!

[Don Coatney]

Something my dad taught me many years ago was how to make a Western Union splice.

 

 

 

 

[Young Ed]

Something my dad taught me many years ago was how to make a Western Union splice.

 

 

 

 

 

Cool Dad taught me that too except for the name. I think he just called it the right way to do it.

[Don Coatney]

This wire wrap is a pain in the butt to install but it works well and is not real expensive. McMaster Carr # 7378K42

 

[40plyrod]

The western union splice is what we use to join barbed wire when we are fencing. You'll have a trouble free electrical system with soldered joints and shrink tube. What I've read on wiring is to be careful when using an ammeter with an alternator. The problem comes from using a stock ammeter rate to show a charge of 30 amp and charging the system with an alternator that produces 60 or more. Probably not a concern for you as your car has obviously been running safely. 

[greg g]

Sounds like one of my father's favorites, "you can do it your way, the Navy way or the right way, my way."   

[Niel Hoback]

 My father's favorite was, "because I told you, now do it".

[Don Coatney]

As part of this project I bought an ample supply of star washers and brass 10X32 nuts to insure good connections.

 

 

[martybose]

Don,

 

Is that connection in your bottom picture a stud or a bolt?  It's probably okay if it is a stud, but if it is a bolt I would suggest a second serrated lockwasher between the tab and the steel surface, so that you have something biting into the surface to establish a decent electrical connection.

 

Marty

[Don Coatney]

Marty, I put star washers both sides everywhere.

[Don Coatney]

Head lights and parking lights both passed the test.

 

[Don Coatney]

New dimmer switch arrived and I made up the front harness. I really like the blue harness wrap I bought from McMaster Carr. Problem is I did not buy enough so time to place another order. By making up a harness for each area the final install should go very quickly. The Rebel wire kit has each wire marked every 6 or so inches and all are color coded for quick identification. Not factory or original looking but neither am I.

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

Per your signature and reference to Lucas electrical...I just recently read that Lucas made vacuum cleaners at one time and was the only product they had that did not suck..

 

and..for the record as a owner of 15 English cars...and having just gone through the basic electrical cleanup of wiring and switches and whatever of one just this Sun/Mon....there was found to be intact and working, three light bulbs...lol  they are horrible little cars for wiring..but...if you understand them and can read the schematic..they can be overcome with a bit of work and a whole lot of patience..

Edited August 6, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[martybose]

Had to laugh about the English electrical systems.  I still remember the 67 Mini 1275 S that I had, as the ignition system shorted out every time it rained hard.  I carried everything in the car to fix it; I would splice in a new section of the power to the coil roadside, and I would be good until the next big rain shower ........

 

Then there's the shift extension mount that would shear, allowing the shift knob to go up and down about four inches with throttle.  I had the parts for this too, and would just drive 2 wheels up on a curb and crawl under to bolt in a new one.  Ah memories .......

 

Marty

[Plymouthy Adams]

they still fun little cars to drive...I have the big sister to the ADO15 (mini) as my design series is the ADO16...

[Don Coatney]

I am giving serious thought to buying this gauge cluster. Is anyone here using this cluster? Also this is the only one I have found. Anyone know of any other clusters specific to a P-15?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/46-47-48-Plymouth-Billet-Aluminum-Gauge-Panel-Dash-Insert-Instrument-Cluster-/290919808742?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bc2bfee6&vxp=mtr

 

 

 

[greg g]

Something wrong with your cluster or you just upgrading? How much more do you need to do to complete the re wire?

[Don Coatney]

My speedometer does not work as it should and I have had an aftermarket temperature gauge under the dash forever. The dim dash lights are no fun so I think I will upgrade.