Mark D Posted July 17, 2014 Author Report Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) Thanks for looking for it Ed. I've been searching NAPA and using 53/54 as the year for the transmission. Come to think of it, is there a way to actually date the build of this tranny? According to the NAPA website seals and bearings are available, but it wants me to inquire with my local store, rather than mail-order. I typically source the stuff while I'm at my desk eating a sandwich, it saves me the time of going to a store when I could be wrenching on the weekends or in the evenings. Oh well, passed due for a visit. You asked earlier if I was going to relining the parking brake. I did the one on the car about nine months ago, my original thought was just to transfer that to the overdrive, but your question prompted me to just go ahead and order the brake lining parts from Roberts motor parts. Makes good sense to just get it all completed and rebuilt, and I'll have the other on the shelf if I ever need it. Edited July 18, 2014 by Mark D Quote
steveplym Posted July 18, 2014 Report Posted July 18, 2014 Mark another source is Northwest Transmissions. I bought an entire gasket kit from them with seals and all if I remember. Quote
suntennis Posted July 18, 2014 Report Posted July 18, 2014 The governor will leak oil unless there is a gasket which is easy to make. Access to getting a wrench on the governor is difficult unless the emergency brake assembly is removed. I got a piece of steel from a hardware store and with the aid of hacksaw made a thin wrench for removing the governor. Quote
DJ194950 Posted July 18, 2014 Report Posted July 18, 2014 The governor will leak oil unless there is a gasket which is easy to make. Access to getting a wrench on the governor is difficult unless the emergency brake assembly is removed. I got a piece of steel from a hardware store and with the aid of hacksaw made a thin wrench for removing the governor. Pics of gasket and tool? DJ Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 18, 2014 Report Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) "Thanks for looking for it Ed. I've been searching NAPA and using 53/54 as the year for the transmission. Come to think of it, is there a way to actually date the build of this tranny?" Build date and type of trans/ type of syncro's is stamped on the case next to the shift cover....Pics to follow. Camera died. Bob Edited July 18, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Mark D Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Posted July 18, 2014 Thanks Bob - I'll take a look when I get back to the garage tonight. I scoured the tranny when I got it, surprised I didnt see it. And DJ, I agree with Bob - love to see the tool you made. There's not alot of room to get in between the case and the solenoid. I figured I'd use a strap wrench when it came time to snug it up. Here's a picture of the solenoid seal that I bought off ebay, as well as the description. Unfortunately there's no reference as to the actual size of the seal, but I suspect it fits into the tranny case. It's due to arrive in Monday's USPS. "Overdrive Solenoid Oil Seal. This seal goes into the overdrive transmission housing where the solenoid mounts to the transmission and the solenoid shaft passes thru the transmission housing) and connects to the shift pawl. If this oil seal becomes damaged from age or rough removal of the solenoid, transmission oil from the transmission will leak into the overdrive solenoid housing, causing the solenoid to fail. This seal should be checked for damage every time the solenoid is removed for service and replaced if damage. This is a direct replacement, exact fit for the following automobiles: 1952-1955 Plymouth" Quote
plyroadking Posted July 18, 2014 Report Posted July 18, 2014 The output seal that i use is a national 8160s Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 19, 2014 Report Posted July 19, 2014 Thats the seal I use too (8160s) for the 3speeds and W/OD.Also fits the M5 and M6 transmissions. Quote
Mark D Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Posted July 19, 2014 Thanks gents, got one on order now. By the way, I checked the date on my OD. It's not very legible, but appears to me to be 9.29.53. - the other characters appear to be K. OD. P or E Quote
Lloyd Posted July 19, 2014 Report Posted July 19, 2014 Thanks for the pics of how to date the OD. The letters are type of synchro's? What type of synchro's are there? Quote
Mark D Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Posted July 20, 2014 Removed the main bearing and the rear seal today. Main bearing came out with little issue. Had to go buy a pair of split ring pliers, but I'll get plenty of use out of those in the future. Rear bearing was not fun. Bought a bearing puller at Sears, but it was too big to reach inside with the shaft in place. So I old schooled it with a hammer and screw driver, not pretty, but got the job done. On another note, I tested the solenoid, and it appears to be in good working order and the action is strong. Received the solenoid gasket in the mail yesterday, about 3/4" in diameter, looks to fit right down into the casting relief. Ew rear seal should arrive tomorrow, and I've scheduled a trip to Napa at lunch to search for the replacement front bearing. Quote
Young Ed Posted July 21, 2014 Report Posted July 21, 2014 If you give them the # off that bearing they should be able to supply a new one. Quote
greg g Posted July 21, 2014 Report Posted July 21, 2014 Uh did you get the number of that bearing in pic 1 before the honey badger got a hold of it????? Quote
Mark D Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Posted July 21, 2014 It was on the back side Greg. And fortunately in a place that wasn't destroyed. Here's a photo of the five dollar piece of rubber (solenoid gasket) that came in the mail. Quote
Mark D Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Posted July 21, 2014 By the way found this interchange for the front bearing on the web tonight. MRC TF7-1 came straight from the bearing I pulled. Quote
Mark D Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Posted July 25, 2014 (edited) Couple questions for the crowd... The new seal arrived today, but it looks nothing like the seal I removed. Is this a matter of new design, or do I have the wrong part? Second question, how the heck do you remove the snap ring that holds this bearing in place? Thanks for the help gents. Edited July 25, 2014 by Mark D Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 25, 2014 Report Posted July 25, 2014 With an internal snap ring puller such as pictured below you should be able to "walk" the snap ring out starting with one side. Quote
Lloyd Posted July 25, 2014 Report Posted July 25, 2014 Its hard to tell looking at the pics but usually a snap ring has an indentation or hole on each end for snap-ring pliers. Some of these pliers are even called internal or external or - multi-ternal(?). Quote
Mark D Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Posted July 25, 2014 Thanks Don and Lloyd for the advice with the internal snap ring. I did start picking away at it with a screwdriver last night. The ring not have any holes like Lloyd suggested. I did buy a pair of the flyers that you have gone to remove the bearing from the drive and transmission. They keep on slipping from the ends the snap ring. I think my best bet is going to be sharpened and old screwdriver and out. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted July 25, 2014 Report Posted July 25, 2014 That snap ring style requires you to get a screwdriver under the end and work it out. However. it appears that the bearing is in the way for the snap ring to come out of the groove. The bearing may need to be pressed in enough for the snap ring to be removed. It may be a case where the assembly must be removed from the inside in order to remove that one. Merle Quote
Mark D Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Posted July 27, 2014 (edited) I'm officially in way over my head. I had some success this afternoon removing the snap ring on the output shaft bearing, and it took me about two hours and 15 minutes constantly prying away with screwdrivers. Wasn't able to remove the output shaft bearing despite my best attempts, so I decided what the hell let's break the transmission apart, maybe it'll be easier to push it from the inside. That was a big mistake. There are parts everywhere now. First thing tomorrow I'm going to call UPS and find out how much it's going to cost me to ship this thing to George Asche. - ugh, what was I thinking. Edited July 27, 2014 by Mark D Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 27, 2014 Report Posted July 27, 2014 (edited) That rear bearing can only be removed by pulling the rear case and disassembling it. This rear bearing is one that seldom wears and gets loose. The front input shaft is the very common one that needs replacement. If you feel the need to replace bearings then the trans will have to be torn down 100%. I probably would have just put it in to see how it works/ if it leaks ect and spent an hour taking it out again if there were problems. This way I'd know hear what issue's if any this trans has. I'd just put another snap ring back in it. Otherwise it will cost some $$$ to tear into it. Bob Edited July 27, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
Mark D Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Posted July 27, 2014 (edited) well that's what happens when an architect attacks a transmission. Had I known that earlier I probably would've left well enough alone, but now I'm into it too far. Lesson learned... Edited July 27, 2014 by Mark D Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 27, 2014 Report Posted July 27, 2014 Failure is not an option. You can do it. One piece at a time. 2 Quote
Mark D Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Posted July 27, 2014 Taking it apart one piece at a time was easy, but putting it back together is where I'm worried. Walked away this afternoon to regroup, do some reading tonight. Well, I guess the worse thing will be sending a jig saw puzzle tranny to George. Quote
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