1948cruiser Posted July 7, 2014 Report Posted July 7, 2014 Im new here and I need all the help I can get! I have a 1948 dodge 2 door, I bought the car as a project and I need to remove the driver side axel hub, I understand that there is a special puller for this, but unfortunately all five of my lug bolts are broken off, so how do I go about taking this hub out so I can replace the lug bolts? I have tried rental jaw p ullers but wont work, I need all the advice I can get Quote
TodFitch Posted July 7, 2014 Report Posted July 7, 2014 All five lug bolts broken off? Sounds like someone didn't know about the left hand threads. Wonder why they didn't stop after breaking one or two. . . About all I can suggest is to carefully drill the lug bolts using a left handed drill for right hand lug bolts and a right hand drill for left hand lug bolts and then use a misnamed "easy out" to remove the bolts. Once they are out then you can remove the drum with a puller per usual. Quote
1948cruiser Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Posted July 7, 2014 I got the car with a five of them already broke off, and my rear end is the one that uses lug studs with lug nuts I should have specified it better, the guy said that he didn't know about the left threatened studs, just my luck! Quote
TodFitch Posted July 7, 2014 Report Posted July 7, 2014 Ahhh. Studs instead of nuts. I think those are pressed in, so maybe an appropriately sized drift and a hammer could knock them into the drum. But then you'd be left with the issue of no way to bolt the puller onto the hub. I hope someone else has a better idea, but I think you are looking at some skillful use of a cutting torch or a replacement axle. Quote
janan5243 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Posted July 7, 2014 I don't have any recent experience with the rear drums but I've read about the hard times people have with them. Maybe you could weld studs on to remove drum. If you could use something to pry them possibly you could shock it loose with a hammer but you have to use a piece of brass stock on the axle so you don't destroy the threads. As I said, I haven't removed one in many years, just throwing out some possible solutions. I'm sure you'll get some advice from members with more experience. Quote
BobK Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 You might try this. Loosen the big nut at the end of the axle and drive the car...... carefully....... until the hub and brake drum decide to separate from the axle. Don't ask me how I know that could happen. Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 with all five lug bolts broken off he can not put the wheel and tire on the car to drive the car. There is no way to mount the rim to the drum. The only way that might work would be to back off the brake shoes so the drum spins freely. Remove the axle nut and key and then try to screw on an axle puller that has the slide hammer option and soak the helxx around the tapered axle end. This might work but only a suggestion. Does anyone else have any ideas. Rich HArtung Quote
BobK Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) Oopps..... Rich,I guess I'm not as smart as I once was. That's must be why I grow plants for a living. Well at least some of you will get a good laugh out of my response. By the way, when my wheel, tire, and brake drum took leave of the axle, I consulted the chart that Don provided. Edited July 8, 2014 by BobK Quote
Young Ed Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 I think it that were mine and I was set on having the stock rear axle I'd start cutting holes in the backing plate hoping to either get 3 new studs in place or remove the 5 axle bearing retainer nuts and pull the drum and axle as one. Oh another thought grind off or drill the five bolt heads that hold those nuts and then you wouldn't need a backing plate. Quote
Dave72dt Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 With all the studs gone, you may be able to separate the drum from the hub. and then a puller to get the hub off. 1 Quote
1948cruiser Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 Yeah I have the hub separated from drum and think I can put a jaw puller there, now Ill have to find a heavy duty puller that can hold the torque, im really trying to keep the stock rear end since a rear end swap is out of my budget and I have no idea what other "newer" rear end fits I heard jeep Cherokee rears work but dont know much about the swap Quote
Dave72dt Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 You should be able to put new studs in then and use the recommended HD hub puller. 1 Quote
Niel Hoback Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 Here's some more to read. Since you have the drum off, try using a tie rod end separator to push the broken bolts out. Use a short bolt for a spacer if the separator pusher bolt is too short. If you can get three of them out you can bolt on a hub puller to get it off. Be careful with that hub, its cast and will bend and crack if you pull unevenly on it. Quote
Eneto-55 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 Of all the guys that have swapped out the original rear end, I'm suprised that no one has offered theirs for sale or for shipping costs. Any one have an extra on hand? Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 I would suggest that push the old lug studs out of the hub. Then insert several grade 8 bolts that have a sholder on them so that the tread does not go all the way up the bolt head. Push the bolt intot he holes with a flat washer to stop the head of the bolt from deforming the orginal bolt hold. Then install a nut ont he bolt to get a tight fit. Do this on at least three of the holes, but if you can get a 5 hole drum puller that would be better since you willget an even pull on the hub instead of the 3 legged puller, but that will also work, Just take your time. I have a 5 holes drum puller and it pulls all my drum with eaze. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
1948cruiser Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 I heard that you can swap the rear end with a jeep Cherokee? ? Does it matter what year and what all goes to it, I think It would be best to change this rear end since it would be easier to service and cheaper parts? Any one know a good axel to replace it with? Quote
nonstop Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 Looking at the chart Don posted, I would try to find an A body, as the perch spacing and width appear to be the same. Ideally 8 3/4 or even the 8.25. You will run into issues with the driveshaft and will need to get a new one made to bolt to the new rear. As for the pulling of the hubs, I agree with the idea of popping out the old studs and using bolts in their place to pull it off. One word of caution - the studs are swedged in there. They are basically riveted to the drum/hub. They need to be cut off and drilled out since they are still on the car. You might risk damaging the hub and will make the job exponentially harder if you try to just knock them out. Quote
Don Coatney Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 Any one know a good axel to replace it with? Perhaps you should actually read the responses to your questions? Good luck. Quote
1948cruiser Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 I was able to remove the broken studs and drilled a whole on the backing plate and was able to extract the studs I think now I can buy new studs and put them in from the back hole that I drilled one stud at a time Quote
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