bamfordsgarage Posted June 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 I am such a dummy. Had I spent half the time thinking about that #6 hole yesterday that I spent crafting my post, I would have figured out what it was and why. My feeble excuse is they don't have 'em on Model Ts and Model Ts are the only cars I claim any expertise with. Such a dummy twice in fact — careful cleaning and examination revealed no communication between the timing hole and the water jacket so that easy explanation is out. I do appreciate the absence of on-line mockery. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Moving on, I did locate a probable leakage path between the gasket and head, from #6 to the water jacket (photo 1). That's a very small path though and seems too small to bring compression down to 30 psi. There was more carbon junk in #6 than the others (photo 2) but the piston and deck cleaned up nicely with no obvious faults (photo 3). The plugs are surely a clue (photos 4 & 5), #6 was heavily gunged up with black and grey residue. To address other recent questions & comments: Don't recall/didn't check for rad bubbles that night in March. Oops. We were losing a gallon every 200 miles or less, and seemed to have a whiter exhaust than usual, although it can be difficult to tell at 20°—30° below. No obvious foaming/coolant on the dipstick, and the oil looked normal when I drained it this week. There was no obvious misfire/rough running when last driven. Piston #6 looked anything but "steam-cleaned". I'm going to examine the valves and seats later today when the direct sunlight goes away. Right now I have a 50-mile round trip in my '24 T Speedster to help another guy get his transmission linkage set up correctly. Yippee! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 The thread is not over. There is still a lot of time for some good on-line mockery. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 The thread is not over. There is still a lot of time for some good on-line mockery. How about Chris being called "Lord of the Ring Gear". Seriously, hope you get the car fixed and back on the road shortly. You are a good example of why it is nice to have spare parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 (edited) At this point, it looks to me like the engine will have to come out to get access to the ring gear to reseat it on the flywheel. I am also thinking about a few tack welds to make sure it stays put. You don't have to remove the engine,just the transmission,clutch,pressure plate,and bellhousing. I strongly suggest you forget about pinning or welding the one you have,and just buy a replacement that is either new or has all good teeth,and use that one instead. IMHO,it is very possible your ring gear is slightly bent or maybe slightly out of round,and this is why it came loose. Maybe somebody in the past hammered it on the flywheel with a little bit too much enthusiasm? At any rate,if you do all that work,go ahead and get a replacement in good condition to use. You might even consider looking around and buying a complete used flywheel with a good ring gear already on it in case some brainiac in the past cut yours down a little to get the ring gear to fit easier in the past. It's probably even easier to find a complete flywheel in good shape than it is just the ring gear. Edited June 26, 2014 by knuckleharley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 So whaddya all think... Contact cement be enough or should I go with Crazy Glue? Bondo. Holds anything together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 You don't have to remove the engine,just the transmission,clutch,pressure plate,and bellhousing. The bellhousing does not need to be removed to remove the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940plymouth Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Chris, Just over a month since the last post. Just wondering how you are doing on the car?. Looking forward to reading about more adventures with you, Jerry and the Dodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Hi Bob, thanks for asking. Ring gear is changed out, head gasket replaced, compression is good, radiator has been repaired. With the transmission out anyway for the ring gear replacement it seemed like a good time to install the R-7 overdrive I bought last year and have procrastinated on putting in. I'd put the car on the back burner in favour of other projects in July, but Jerry and I plan to be at it again tomorrow. The next (minor) adventure is on the calendar for Aug 14-17. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 And on a related matter, who can identify the purpose of this special tool? It was required following the head gasket replacement and subsequent compression test... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 My guess is a special socket wrench with a slot to allow the flex hose screw connection to be tightened into the spark plug hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 My guess is a special socket wrench with a slot to allow the flex hose screw connection to be tightened into the spark plug hole. Interesting notion, but the tool was created after the compression test was completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Then my next guess is some sort of compression recycling device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40phil41 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 For installing the temperature sending unit to the head??? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Although you cannot read it in the picture this wrench is cast as a gland nut wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Nuttin to do with temperature... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meadowbrook Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 It's for the O2 sensor By the way, happy to see you are one of the few, the proud R7 O/D users. I have one on my D34. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1941Rick Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 How old are those plugs? Look like they are from a marine engine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 02 sensor is usually a much larger socket cut this manner..that socket does not appear that large in the picture and why would an O2 sensor be on the D25..Chris would never have a modern drivetrain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meadowbrook Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Guys, I was kidding about the o2 sensor... In his case, it was certainly for the nut that holds the cam position sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Don't know why a custom slit socket like that is required for work on a stock MoPar flathead. Maybe slit for the plug wire out the side. Cannot tell if a 13/16" socket. O2 are 7/8". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 5/8" socket. And not for electrical neither. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Tie rod end adjuster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 It was a spark plug socket though for peanut spark plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 So to recap and add one more hint. I'll post the answer tomorrow. • Tool required after head gasket replacement and compression test were completed • Not electrical-related • Not cooling-related • 5/8" socket _ _ _ _ _ _ • We busted something whilst following the recommended procedure for doing a compression test. This tool was very helpful with the repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonstop Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) I'll play, is it for the oil filter hose fitting? Although, size does seem a little large. Although upon review, it it to get the broken compression tester fitting with hose out of the head? Edited July 30, 2014 by nonstop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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