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Ring gear came off flywheel! Any easy fix?


bamfordsgarage

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I am such a dummy. Had I spent half the time thinking about that #6 hole yesterday that I spent crafting my post, I would have figured out what it was and why. My feeble excuse is they don't have 'em on Model Ts and Model Ts are the only cars I claim any expertise with.

 

Such a dummy twice in fact — careful cleaning and examination revealed no communication between the timing hole and the water jacket so that easy explanation is out.

 

I do appreciate the absence of on-line mockery.

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Moving on, I did locate a probable leakage path between the gasket and head, from #6 to the water jacket (photo 1). That's a very small path though and seems too small to bring compression down to 30 psi. There was more carbon junk in #6 than the others (photo 2) but the piston and deck cleaned up nicely with no obvious faults (photo 3). The plugs are surely a clue (photos 4 & 5), #6 was heavily gunged up with black and grey residue.

 

To address other recent questions & comments: Don't recall/didn't check for rad bubbles that night in March. Oops. We were losing a gallon every 200 miles or less, and seemed to have a whiter exhaust than usual, although it can be difficult to tell at 20°—30° below. No obvious foaming/coolant on the dipstick, and the oil looked normal when I drained it this week. There was no obvious misfire/rough running when last driven. Piston #6 looked anything but "steam-cleaned".

 

I'm going to examine the valves and seats later today when the direct sunlight goes away. Right now I have a 50-mile round trip in my '24 T Speedster to help another guy get his transmission linkage set up correctly. Yippee!

 

 

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The thread is not over. There is still a lot of time for some good on-line mockery.

 

 How about Chris being called "Lord of the Ring Gear". Seriously, hope you get the car fixed and back on the road shortly. You are a good example of why it is nice to have spare parts!

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At this point, it looks to me like the engine will have to come out to get access to the ring gear to reseat it on the flywheel. I am also thinking about a few tack welds to make sure it stays put.

 

You don't have to remove the engine,just the transmission,clutch,pressure plate,and bellhousing.

 

I strongly suggest you forget about pinning or welding the one you have,and just buy a replacement that is either new or has all good teeth,and use that one instead. IMHO,it is very possible your ring gear is slightly bent or maybe slightly out of round,and this is why it came loose. Maybe somebody in the past hammered it on the flywheel with a little bit too much enthusiasm?

 

At any rate,if you do all that work,go ahead and get a replacement in good condition to use.

 

You might even consider looking around and buying a complete used flywheel with a good ring gear already on it in case some brainiac in the past cut yours down a little to get the ring gear to fit easier in the past. It's probably even easier to find a complete flywheel in good shape than it is just the ring gear.

Edited by knuckleharley
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So whaddya all think... Contact cement be enough or should I go with Crazy Glue?

Bondo. Holds anything together.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Bob, thanks for asking.

 

Ring gear is changed out, head gasket replaced, compression is good, radiator has been repaired. With the transmission out anyway for the ring gear replacement it seemed like a good time to install the R-7 overdrive I bought last year and have procrastinated on putting in. I'd put the car on the back burner in favour of other projects in July, but Jerry and I plan to be at it again tomorrow.

 

The next (minor) adventure is on the calendar for Aug 14-17.

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My guess is a special socket wrench with a slot to allow the flex hose screw connection to be tightened into the spark plug hole.

Interesting notion, but the tool was created after the compression test was completed.

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Don't know why a custom slit socket like that is required for work on a stock MoPar flathead.

Maybe slit for the plug wire out the side. Cannot tell if a 13/16" socket. O2 are 7/8".

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It was a spark plug socket though for peanut spark plugs?

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So to recap and add one more hint. I'll post the answer tomorrow.

 

• Tool required after head gasket replacement and compression test were completed

• Not electrical-related

• Not cooling-related

• 5/8" socket

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• We busted something whilst following the recommended procedure for doing a compression test. This tool was very helpful with the repair.

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I'll play, is it for the oil filter hose fitting? Although, size does seem a little large.

Although upon review, it it to get the broken compression tester fitting with hose out of the head?

Edited by nonstop
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