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Posted

The carpet definitely has to go... my aunt made an attempt in the early 70s to get it back on the road, so she started adding stuff to it... so the ugly blue shag carpet is her fault...

Any idea or advice on where to get a replacement carpet?

 

Check out this site for carpet.

 

http://www.carparts.com

 

On another note, You painted your tires. Looks good. Make sure you painted the inside good, due to the rivets you could loose air through them. Also check this out for the balance procedure when you get your new tires. ( I ordered mine from wal-mart for $250.00 for a set of 4)

 

http://www.innovativebalancing.com/Classicchart.htm

 

http://aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/balancing_beads/

 

Check out this vid on you tube.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq263AYgyYg

 

That's how I did my car tires on my P-15. The tires look good and there are no ugly balance weights.

I will definitely check them out for carpet!

 

I have actually heard of those beads, they are pretty sweet!  I will definitely be doing it right when I get new tires for it.  It will be getting whitewalls.  The wheels will be sandblasted and powdercoated probably, I just painted them because it was cheap, and I wanted to see how it would look.

Posted

After reading aircooledtech,com's site I went the cheap route and used the air soft BB's. Bought the 2500 bottle and it came out to 3.5 oz for the back tires and 3.75 for the fronts. I did a test drive at 40 mph and the car was smooth as silk. Then my left rear motor mount disintegrated and I lost 2nd and 3rd gear. That was my today project to replace the MM and with the florida heat and humidity I am wiped out. So have a good night and I'll check back later.

Posted

If your hood release is jammed of the cable is broken or loose,you can make a tool from an old long screwdriver, by heating up and bending the last three or four inches into curve.  You can look up through the grill on the driver's side and see the bottom of the release mechanism, and release it withthe modified screw driver.

  • Like 1
Posted

Search the past threads of the forum for advice on the interior.  I just did the interior myself in my Dodge not long ago and documented it in a thread.  There are quite a few sources out there for headliners, material, etc that can provide you with stuff

for your project.  Especially when you are doing it yourself. 

Posted

If your hood release is jammed of the cable is broken or loose,you can make a tool from an old long screwdriver, by heating up and bending the last three or four inches into curve.  You can look up through the grill on the driver's side and see the bottom of the release mechanism, and release it with the modified screw driver.

 

Alright, thanks!  I am going to try to open it tomorrow now that I know there is a release inside the car.  If that doesn't work, I will do that and get it open that way.

 

Search the past threads of the forum for advice on the interior.  I just did the interior myself in my Dodge not long ago and documented it in a thread.  There are quite a few sources out there for headliners, material, etc that can provide you with stuff

for your project.  Especially when you are doing it yourself. 

 

I definitely will.  My wife is in charge of the interior, since she like to sew and do all of that kind of stuff.  I am in charge of the rest lol. 

Posted

Alright, we are not going to be able to do any real work for a few weeks.  This weekend I am a vendor at a huge diesel show and truck pulls, then we will be gone to Virginia on vacation.  Once all that is over, I can start doing some real work on it.

 

I did do a couple small things today though.

 

Got the hood open!

I had my father-in-law pull the hood release... the hood wouldn't budge.  So I kung fu kicked the hood and it freed up! haha, and there was no damage done... I love old cars.

IMAG0802_zps3eqq3nto.jpg

 

I also got a good look at the worst rust in the car, the trunk.

IMAG0803_zpswrl2nqhb.jpg

IMAG0804_zpsxanljddn.jpg

IMAG0805_zpsyvyiq8uz.jpg

 

Also, got a picture of the odometer.  She has 115,888.9 miles on her!

IMAG0800_zpsfrtldwn0.jpg

Posted

Since I don't have time to do any physical work on the car, I figured I would start drawing out some designs, and being I am stuck at work, I figured it was a perfect time to start!

 

Here is my uncolored original.  I will then make a couple copies so I can add some color and start figuring out how I want to go with it.

 

The only thing I have done so far is drop it a little bit and add some fatter tires.  What do you guys think?

 

IMAG0809_zpskoznfylc.jpg

Posted

Hmmmm... those are pretty cool.  I also have a couple ideas up my sleeve.  Nothing crazy, simple, but unique.

Posted

 

Here is my uncolored original.  I will then make a couple copies so I can add some color and start figuring out how I want to go with it.

 

Looking good - looks sort of like a Chip Foose sketch without color.

  • 6 months later...
Posted (edited)

I know it's been a while, and it will probably still be a few months before we can start a teardown, but I do have a couple updates!

 

I picked up a set of Ohio 1948 license plates to run on the car once she is one the road.  It's small, but exciting! 

 

 

Also, and probably a little more importantly... I have a friend of a friend who picked up a 1950 Dodge Truck.  It has the flathead 6 in it.  Well, his plan is to replace it with a small block Chevy and was going to scrap the old engine.  I told him I would give him $50 for it and he took it! 

 

I have yet to pick it up, or even see it, but plan to in the next couple weeks.  Did I get a good deal?  What engine should it be?  The same 218 like in my P15?  Or something else?

 

Here's the truck it's coming out of:

10478199_835731293155307_894180511931865

10299955_835986379796465_732075808755191

Edited by USMC1188
Posted (edited)

Sad to hear a Chebby motor is going in that truck, but good for you for saving the flathead engine. Does it run? If so you got a bargain. It should be a 218 with a T172 number.

Edited by Merle Coggins
Posted

Yeah check the number on the left side of the motor, that will tell you what you have. 

 

I just picked up a T motor a couple weeks ago as a spare and had to do some checking to see what I have.  Should be a 218

like Merle said. 

Posted (edited)

Scott I feel like we are long lost brothers haha. I got out of the Marines 4 years ago, my daily driver for the last 10 years has been my 24v Cummins ( had it since high school), and I am building a 1948 Special Deluxe Coupe. I am going more of a hot rod route. I am cramming a 66' Chrysler 383/727 combo in it. Good luck with the build and Semper Fi brother.

Edited by VCustoms
Posted

Welcome to the community and thank you for your service! Looks like you have a solid survivor to start your journey. Get it back on the road and you will have a great sense  of accomplishment. 

Posted

Sad to hear a Chebby motor is going in that truck, but good for you for saving the flathead engine. Does it run? If so you got a bargain. It should be a 218 with a T172 number.

 

Agreed!  Seems that's all everyone does anymore... small block chebby swap!

 

Yeah check the number on the left side of the motor, that will tell you what you have. 

 

I just picked up a T motor a couple weeks ago as a spare and had to do some checking to see what I have.  Should be a 218

like Merle said. 

 

Thanks, I will!  I have yet to figure out a time to go pick it up... it's been busy around here.

 

Once you get the engine, you can check the engine# here:http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php.......to help identify it.

 

Thanks!

 

Scott I feel like we are long lost brothers haha. I got out of the Marines 4 years ago, my daily driver for the last 10 years has been my 24v Cummins ( had it since high school), and I am building a 1948 Special Deluxe Coupe. I am going more of a hot rod route. I am cramming a 66' Chrysler 383/727 combo in it. Good luck with the build and Semper Fi brother.

 

That's really funny!  Semper Fi!  I would love to go more of a hot rod, but at the moment, the funds aren't there to go all crazy.  Not gonna lie, I would LOVE to throw a 6BT under there and call it a day, but for the moment, it's going to have to stay a flathead. 

Welcome to the community and thank you for your service! Looks like you have a solid survivor to start your journey. Get it back on the road and you will have a great sense  of accomplishment. 

 

Thanks a lot!  I can't wait to get her going again!

Posted

Hi.  Nice P15 you got there.  You will just have to look around for ideas of a look you want.  Eventually it will come to you.

 

Here is a link to a website called  carnut.com.............which has tons of pictures of all makes of cars done up both stock

and a customs/hotrods.     You might see something you like on there.   My  only suggestion is that whatever you do,

try to leave most or all of the stainless trim including the grill in place.....as those are unique to these Plymouths.  When

you look at the carnut photos, you will see what I mean.  

 

http://www.carnut.com/photo/list/

 

This link is to their index by make of vehicle.    They have other pages with many more pics from shows.

Good luck and happy wrenching.   

 

Bob

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Alright, so we got the motor in the garage.  We tried seperating it from the transmission so it could go up on the stand with only partial luck.  We got the transmission off, but cannot get the bellhousing off because the flywheel and clutch will not spin to unbolt it all.  So not my next step is start a basic teardown (get the accessiories off and remove the head and start soaking the pistons with PB Blast to hopefully free it up).  From there, I can remove the rest of the trans and get it up on the stand to finish the rest of the teardown. 

 

Here's the pics I have so far:

imagejpeg_0_6_zpsxek7if6i.jpg

IMAG1395_zpslc2gzjtc.jpg

IMAG1396_zps1xpdt0hy.jpg

IMAG1397_zpshdciwbc0.jpg

IMAG1398_zpswqougnf4.jpg

IMAG1399_zps5fcfa88s.jpg

IMAG1400_zpscgkyfykn.jpg

Posted

You can push the alignment pins out and the bellhousing should come off then.

Posted (edited)

You can push the alignment pins out and the bellhousing should come off then.

 

Honestly, I have no idea what pins you are talking about... I will look and see what I can find.  I'm not a transmission guy at all lol.  This engine came out of a 1-Ton, so it is a manual trans with the shifter on the floor.  Any help in guiding me in the right direction would be much appreciated!

 

 

Also, anyone have any idea of the massive socket size for the nut on the crank pulley?

Edited by USMC1188
Posted

Honestly, I have no idea what pins you are talking about... I will look and see what I can find.  I'm not a transmission guy at all lol.  This engine came out of a 1-Ton, so it is a manual trans with the shifter on the floor.  Any help in guiding me in the right direction would be much appreciated!

 

 

Also, anyone have any idea of the massive socket size for the nut on the crank pulley?

 

Is the issue that the bellhousing will come backwards but not far enough to clear the flywheel? If its not you've missed a bolt somewhere. Otherwise look in the crack and you should see a steel dowel that you can push out of the way. They will be along the sides of the block in that flange. I believe there is 1 per side.

Posted

Here is what I have with the bellhousing:

All the bolts should be out:

IMAG1420_zpsy8xmphop.jpg

IMAG1419_zpsb4nqhtvg.jpg

 

I can get the bellhousing seperated from the block about 1/4".  You can see these 2 small pins in between the 2:

IMAG1423_zpsurlwdysg.jpg

IMAG1424_zpsfjmlfysk.jpg

IMAG1422_zpschnkqwri.jpg

 

View from the backside of the bellhousing:

IMAG1422_zpschnkqwri.jpg

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