The Phoenix is awakening / B3B Rises from the Ashes

[Dodgeb4ya]

I don't think I could find my way back if I ended up at the train station bar! Have had some big party's for sure.

 

The train engine is down for brakes and at my neighbors shop ... 16 vacuum brake cans need to be manufactured $$$$.

 

Some pictures for you Don of what you missed.

[Jeff Balazs]

Paul;

No clue what your response is supposed to mean? Are your spring shackles loose from the frame?

[pflaming]

No, the threaded bushing appears to be loose. The shackle end is not firm in it as though the shackle is a 'size ' smaller. The bushing is on the trailing end of the spring. I have only viewed the looseness, I haven't put a wrench to it as yet. Wife severely sprained her ankle last evening, so may not get to it very soon. Stay tuned, stay sober! LOL

Edited November 16, 2015 by pflaming

[48Dodger]

I'm ridin that train.....!!!

 

 

48D

[pflaming]

Wow, last post to this thread was in November.  Today I'm installing a Signalstat 900 turn signal. Just spent some time under the rear bumper working wires.  I am drawing a total schematic for the truck as I go. And I'm also checking all connectors for looseness and for lock washers.

 

What is a bit disconserting is not the wiring, but the growing damage from the fire.  The truck it self did NOT burn save the front driverside fender. That aside, the truck just got a very severe roasting and excessive smoke damage. Yet It is obvious that the frame below the bed has deteriorated and that means all else as well.

 

Will get it driver dependable, then will remove the bed, clean and protect the rear frame, et. al. Then the doghouse will be disassembled cleaned, etc., and protected as well.

 

What Tim, Dave, and others have said proves valid.  Fire is not a friendly force, its damage or lack thereof is deceiving.

 

More as I proceed. The immediate goal is to drive up to the Sequoia National Part Big Trees with my grand kids, next week to validate that the truck will make the trip to the BBQ on the 2nd.

[MBF]

Hey Paul, I think I know what you're talking about.  I'll bet that either the outer shackle bushing on the rear of the spring is worn on the outside, (may have been replaced with an aftermarket knockoff part), or the shackle eyes riveted to the chassis are hogged out and will need to be replaced.  I think you'll find that they're probably both in need of attention unless someone replaced just one side in a previous life.   Mike

[Desotodav]

I had to replace the front spring rear mounts on the chassis for the 52 truck... a bit of messing around, but made it right in the end.

Hope you can find a supplier for them over there Paul. If not, I may still know a fella here in Oz who has some NOS ones.

[pflaming]

 TKS for the heads up. I had forgotten about that shackle. Wife didn't sprain her ankle she BROKE it.  That is healing nicely now. So will return to the shackle this morning.  Hate it when I can't sleep. But then at least I'm not rigid yet!

[pflaming]

It seems whenever I make an observation that I am not spot on, in fact, many times out of the ball park. So correct me if I am wrong on this or missed something.

 

The wiring schmetic for the B3B does NOT show a wire to the back side of the dimmer switch. It shows a #14 black and a # 12 red connected to the terminal block. There is a white "B" on the dimmer switch drawing but no wire. I perplexed over this for a long time then for kicks I ran a temp wire from that switch post to a hot wire and bazingo, I had a working dimmer switch! 

 

Now I have HI LO head lights and tail lights. Connect the 900 wires tomorrow or maybe tonight after supper.

 

Back, it's interesting how that when one understands, how simple the problem really was. The back of the switch is marked BATT which means bring power here and then the switch does it's intended purpose.  Chaucer was never this comfusing, Milton maybe, Faulkner, well thats a different subject altogether.

 

Gonna make that BBQ.

Edited March 24, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

On the road for about 10 Miles this afternoon. I tightened one shackle bolt/bushing and it drives very straight now. But I think I may need new shocks.  I was hoping not, but . . .  maybe just new on the fire side, then drive again.

 

Now seat belts, may go to pick n pull and get a seat with belts.  Adjustments now, shifter is still problematic, Tach works but shows 4,000 at 55 mph so that is not correct, 

and cosmetics.  Maybe head up to the mountains on Monday. Darn, little things are tiring and time consuming.  I see more and more effects from the fire.  Its had to work on a fire damaged vehicle, different than just an old one.

 

Tomorrow is Easter Sunday, important day for many.  

[Jeff Balazs]

On the road for about 10 Miles this afternoon. I tightened one shackle bolt/bushing and it drives very straight now. But I think I may need new shocks.  I was hoping not, but . . .  maybe just new on the fire side, then drive again.

 

Now seat belts, may go to pick n pull and get a seat with belts.  Adjustments now, shifter is still problematic, Tach works but shows 4,000 at 55 mph so that is not correct, 

and cosmetics.  Maybe head up to the mountains on Monday. Darn, little things are tiring and time consuming.  I see more and more effects from the fire.  Its had to work on a fire damaged vehicle, different than just an old one.

 

Tomorrow is Easter Sunday, important day for many.  

Shocks are much like the situation of tire replacement. Should be changed as a set. Mismatching them is not a good or prudent idea. I feel for you...to a point.....but this is what happens when you play with fire

Jeff

[pflaming]

Jeff, except for the drivers front fender, the fire did not get to the truck, yet is it probable that the intense head took the life out of those shocks.  If so they only had about 500 miles on them. Maybe I can use a couple of them for some shop stools!  

[55 Fargo]

Here Paul, this WW2 Army Foot locker has been my truck tool box for a while, but recently it has had a transformation.

It had been painted latex hunter green over what looked like flat black, stripped it down with the intentions of painting it to match my truck.

But the old wood patina look won over, and I shot clear over it, the hardware is wrought iron black, the handles and hasp, thought of you on this project, not really my "cup of tea" Wife likes it, Son hates it....LOL PS it may get painted over yet....dble LOL

Edited March 27, 2016 by Fargos-Go-Far

[pflaming]

The old evangelist of the west always said, 'the hardest convert, is the long range convert'.  Stay the course, " the wrong road is wide and easy, . . . the straight and narrow . . . "  That's a quote, not a sermon. LOL

 

Monday, two new shocks on the front then evaluate. BBQ is only a week away, where does the time go?

 

I'm still looking for a rider to the BBQ. Leave Fresno on Friday and return Saturday afternoon. 

Edited March 27, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Today new shocks up front, set me back $50.00 but what a difference. I got my former truck back. Also checked all shackles, tie rod ends, etc., all checks out. Would have liked to put on an electric fan and cut the noise, but can always put the hearing aid on the dash. Front tires are new.  

 

Should change the rear also but rides ok for now and got to make certain I'm on the road to the Q on Friday.  

[pflaming]

Update: yes I am multitasking between the suburban and Phoenix. The attached are of my upper shifter arms. I have not found the adjustment that's required to shift properly. VERY frustrating.  I do not think the bottom nut is an adjustment nut, I think all adjustments are made in the one rod that connects to the lifter arm. 

Edited May 20, 2018 by pflaming

[pflaming]

This is a very perplexing repair. It shifted so easily before I repaired the steering tube. There is a very small bracket that holds the shifting mechanism. It was electronically welded on at the factory, That bracket broke loose. By clamping it on with a vice grip It shifted as new. So I very carefully marked the location and took it to a long time welder friend and he welded it back on. We were very careful not to move that bracket. When I reinstalled all nearly worked, reverse and low were not dependable. So. . . I tried to adjust, well I cannot get it back to where it was.  

 

The gear selector lever on top of the transmission is spring loaded. I think that lever must load that spring to move the shifter and it then is guaranteed to return to 2nd and 3rd which is the normal position. Yet I can directly, rod unattached, put that lever under spring tension but I still cannot get reverse. I'm overlooking something very small but absolutely necessary.

 

An hour ago I ordered a dealer shop repair manual, which is NOT a reprint, will have some usage wear, but it has added information the reprints do not have. Will return to the shifter when that arrives. I have things to do, so will now drink my daily 18 oz bottle of beer for my health, and set forth on other matters. I certainly hope I do not have to replace that tube. I have two extra tubes from my 53 donor cars but do not know if they will transfer. 

[Desotodav]

I have attached a couple of photos from my 52 truck Paul. I know that your truck will differ slightly to mine as mine is a right-hand drive vehicle, but the principle should be the same.

It is common here in Oz for the linkage mount on the steering column to break off requiring re-welding - I had to do just that with my 52 truck and know first hand how difficult it is to have it welded back exactly in the same place. The welding chore itself is difficult enough as the steering column tube is very thin and one can easily blow holes in it during the welding process (don't ask)!

It is possible to make minor adjustment by loosening the clamp for the steering column (on the steering box end) and rotating the column slightly - this will in-turn adjust your gear shifter location in the cab so hopefully it doesn't require too much of a steering column rotation. You will also have to loosen the steering column clamp under the dash in the cab.

There is not much adjustment in the area (from your previous post) where that pivot point ('stud 19-46-20') with rubber bushing is, but you may consider removing the nut on the bottom of that gear change shaft and rotating that curved piece (called 'lever 19-46-16') the required amount of tooth notch/s in the direction required before re-tightening the bottom nut. Sorry mate, I had to have a chop at you as I know you have previous for leaving steering nuts loose under your truck!

Hope that all makes sense to you!

Edited June 10, 2016 by Desotodav

[pflaming]

FINALLY! After hours of adjusting, reading, today I figured it out. I opened the toe board so I could see what happened when I lifted the shift lever. When the attachment rod was on the lift lever, the lever "overloaded" and the lever would not lift. I'll make this short. So I removed that lever to discover two things. First dry grease dirt had accumulated and the lever then slid off the collar and the rod fell back, secondly the liver lift point had worn so it took the route of least resistance.

Solution. First I cleaned the mechanism of that hard grease and with my vice I squeezed the lift arm a little tighter. Bazinga, attached the connector rod and backed up the truck. Some things are NOT on line nor in the manual.

Now I will do a more thorough cleaning than is shown in the pictures

Edited June 18, 2016 by pflaming

[The Oil Soup]

So Paul, are you saying too much patina can be a bad thing?

[Plymouthy Adams]

in this case, road apples....

Edited June 19, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[pflaming]

HELP! I have my truck at the glass shop for new window glass but cannot find the nickel size clips for the regulator posts.

I just ordered four from VPW. They are quick responders, I like them

Edited June 23, 2016 by TodFitch

[pflaming]

The windows are in. $200.00 including tinted glass.

Edited May 20, 2018 by pflaming

[DJ194950]

Paul-

 

Put some 20" wheels with LOW profile tires- put your sunglasses on- slide down in the seat until you can barely see out and your ready to cruise Main street!! 

 

No thank you.

 

Patina to the max though.

 

DJ

[Jeff Balazs]

The windows are in. $200.00 including tinted glass.

image.jpegimage.jpeg

Maybe it is just my eyes?......... but that tint already looks sort of smokey. 

A while back you were talking about adding some additional sound proofing. Carpeting the floor and inside of the cab could really help. And I happen to know where you can get some vintage burnt orange carpet real cheap. Might as well go all the way.